uniberp1

Thanks. I assumed it was the basket that got grooved, and needed to be replaced, but I don't see many references to that. I suppose they could be filed out. The noise is a pretty loud bang right under the center when it hits.

It only bangs when it's slipping on ice, and there is no ice now. I'm pretty sure it's the clutch basket in the tailshaft. I'v pulled the tranny before to seal the separator plate, so I know it's doable. Yes, the bet on a used transmission is sketchy. A wreck is best, like you said. I think I can go up to 2003 without a TCU change.

I get a pretty loud bang from the center when hard accelerating on ice. I assume the basket in the tailshaft is worn. 4EAT 200k miles. Engine is a 50k rebuild by https://www.ssisubiespecialists.com/. It's been incredibly strong. There are plenty of transmissions at the local pick-apart. I want to pick up the lowest mileage one. I mean. it's pretty much the same job right? The biggest pain as I remember is the preliminary removal of the exhaust and driveshaft, with all those associated corroded parts. I could remove the rear cover on the new just to check. It's almost worth the $150 to try it. (+$30 for diveshaft) https://luckyselfserve.com/inventory/?make=subaru&model=forester&listing_order=year&listing_orderby=ASC

Rear flange is rusted. The only performance gain I would bother with is increased gas mileage.

I've heard CARB cats are actually more free flowing. They cost quite a bit more. Are they better quality or just stamped with a CARB number? 08 Forester N/A Auto.

PCV valve. Are you burning oil?

From the symptoms, absolutely. Easing the throttle allows the clutch plates to slip out of the grooves and engage. I'd really like to get under it and take out the tailhousing but it's subzero now.

What is this "Knowledge Base Troubleshooting system" you mention? The Internet?

Found the broken wire. it. Another thread elsewhere (https://www.subaruforester.org/threads/2005-automatic-trans-issue-at-temp-flashing-awd-light-starts-flashing-solved.815228/) helped. Exact same thing here, as found and stripped back. Like I said, it's stupid.

Yep, the lights came back on. The procedures does not work. 2008 Forester is not CANbus. Started in 09. I'm betting on broke wire. Will check tomorrow.

I think maybe an offroad vehicle should not have a swaybar. Allows greater independent movement without.

Maybe it's the outside temperature. It was warmer today after a week in the 20s. 2.5 NA 2008 Forester 4EAT 155k. The AT Temp would start flashing and stay flashing until the car was restarted. Then a few days later the AWD light started flashing. No weird shifting, no torque bind, downshifting, upshifting, everything normal. Fluids clean and normal. Air filter clean. Charged the battery, just in case, no difference. The AT light would start flashing 1 block down the road, followed by the AWD light. Checked any grounds I could find. Unplugged and reseated TCM connectors. Disconnected the battery for 1 hour, and reconnected it. Lights gone and stayed off after 50 miles. Stupid lights.

I think the car rides more smoothly without them, since the shock is not transmitted to the other wheel. Thoughts on safety, alignment, tire wear. Not concerned with handling; I handle far more primitive vehicles. Thanks.

I just wanted to prove I would not be defeated by a rust frozen longbolt. I used a cutoff wheel to slice the bolt between the knuckle and the control arms, and pressed out the bushings with the stub intact, an pressed in new bushings using a bearing press. I bought the whole knuckle/bearing/hub/backerplate from RA . This sat in a corner for months, just annoying me. I tackled it today freehand using a benchtop drillpress and 1/8 and 3/8 bits. I won't do it again. This part of this generation of Subarus stinks.

They fail because users treat them like cast-iron V6's.

"Bruce"

Get one that doesn't have any rod-knock/piston slap. Check the oil.

It's the clockspring.

Nail polish

Have you ever changed the spark plugs? Every 40k miles is what is recommended.

A half shaft parts and labor should cost your about $200 by "someone", which I assume you meant some non-professional. The part alone is about $100 and they are readily available. For a questionable car it really doesn't matter what you install. Getting someone to pull one off a wrecked car will cost you about the same. Since the car has not been running in a year there are many other things that could be wrong, such as bad gas, rusted exhaust, etc.

I achieved a solid fix on this. 5/16 Dorman compression fittings will work on the subaru 8mm fuel line. No pics yet, it's been snowy or rainy since. The big trick is to route the new fuel line forward and to the right of the fuel pump cover, outside the interior, along the brake lines. I used a piece of wire to lead it through until I could see it from beneath, then routed it in front of the rear subframe and over the driveshaft cover. Parts needed, I got everything I needed at a local car parts: 1 - 5/16 double compression fitting, like dorman 490-024.1 1 - 5/16 Inverted Flare Barb with Male Connector - like Dorman 785-402D 1 - 12" 5/16 steel brake line with inverted flare fittings. 1 - double 5/16 female inverted flare union. Another Dorman part 6 feet of 5/16 high pressure fuel injection hose. A tubing bender is advisable. You're going to make a couple of 90 degree bends in the steel tube. 1. Remove the back seat, and remove the reinforcing bar that sits over the fuel lines. 2. Using a small tube cutter, cut the 8mm steel fuel line at a straight section. The other end may be rusted off, or leaking, cut it off so it doesn't hang. 3. The compression fitting will JUST fit on the 8mm. Tap it gently. 4. Cut one end from the brake line and put a couple 90 degree bends in it to fit approximately where the original went. Assemble the compression union. 5. Assemble the remaining barb and flare coupling, using solid band hose clamps. The other trick, for security, at the tank end of the hose, is to split and notch the hose, so it can be pushed over the catch bulge on the steel line from the pump. Put one clamp below the bulge and one above it, to secure it from blowing off. This has held for a month or so, with no signs of slipping.

In CAN bus systems brake lights can be linked to traction control. Good luck.

So back to DIY. The line snapped off in my hand as I tried to release the clip, exactly at the point in the pict at top below the yellow pipe. I bought a 5/16 brake line, a 5/16 compression fitting, a 5/16 tapered seat and a 5/16 barb with 1 sharp ring about as long as the pic at summit. ...Next day: barb insert failed... inserting a barb into a nylon line without special tools is not possible. Mating a 5/16 brake line to 8mm Subaru oem fuel line works just fine using a 5/16 compression fitting. Hard metal connection. Next step: There is now a 5/16 male inverted flare at the end of the fuel line by the right rear wheel. I will run a new 5/16 fuel injection rubber hose to the tank, with a flare barb on the forward end and just shove it on the outlet tube on the sender and clamp the spoob out of it, I guess. If I just disconnect the front tank straps and lower the front will I be able to fish the new HP rubber tube through to the left side?

How much harder and tricky would it be to replace the entire fuel line? Exact same problem on my 99 Also, the idea of a complete rubber hose to the filter up front, where it seems to be hose clamped, seems reasonable. This part seems available, but you never know until you order it. $38 bucks. https://www.certifiedsubaruparts.com/p/Subaru__Forester/PIPE-DELIVERY/49249562/42065FC080.html .