uniberp1

Yah thanks. I just want something a little heavier and smoother for my commute in Michigan (meaning snow). And I like weirdo GT's like my old P1800. And I know Subarus, kinda. And I don't want to deal with CANbus, if that's what they are using now. SVXnet seems to show the enthusiasm is fading. There is one user there who seemed to try to make a business building bulletproof transmissions, but IDK if he did. If I find an SVX for super cheap it might be worth it., even with a $3k tranny. They talk about the VTD "center diff". Isn't that really the tailshaft housing? " Giugaro" used to mean something, for God's sake. Just kidding. So did "Ghia". Not really. Yes the original Cosmo is very pretty.

73k. They claim it shifts fine. They sent me pics of the original upholstery, which seem to be perfect. No dash cracks that I can see. https://jspecauto.com/en/subaru/complete-cars/1675/1994-subaru-alcyone-svx-230hp-concept-rhd-sport-coupe/ This should have the VTD center diff, so it is supposedly a better driver. IDK what driving an RHD car is like. Somebody should anyhow. I'm deciding if it's worth the plane ticket to go see.

The evaporator core is not readily visible. You should get in there somehow and look for dye leaks.

Maybe the boiling water saturated the plug wires. Plugwires are kinda critical . You gotta use special ones: NGK or OEM. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2003,outback,2.5l+h4,1418161,ignition,spark+plug+wire+set,7224

It's both. 5 hours? So get AAA and you get a 200 mile tow free. Just start early and have a backup plan. Request extra time off.

I wouldn't be surprised if the wiring is already there. Pull back the carpet and look for open plugs.

I meant when they are out of the car. You can't tell much when they are installed. Except for gross failure, wobbling loosely. Sorry,.

Note that the outer joints may feel stiff and notchy, but that is correct and how new ones feel.

It was a wheel bearing. Wet and rusted. Failed seal, and a lesson learned to drive your driveable cars at least once a week. A new piece of general advice when pulling the rear hub on a 96-03 or anything with "long bolt". Lift the rear set and disconnect the ABS wire, then undo the 2 bolts holding it to the suspension arm, because the end in the knuckle is probably not going to budge. I feel I lucked out on the long bolt, in that it was not rusted into the rear bushing. If it is you are in for a fun couple days. I have a pic on here somewhere of how to force the cut off end through the bushing. Wheel bearing. Did I say that right? Wheel bearing.

Bad ground. Grab each end of the negative battery cable and give it a good bend and twist. The copper wires in the OEM cable are very fine and can corrode through. If that fixes it replace the cable anyhow.

Sounds like you should start pulling it apart. The vertical wobble might mean something. The side to side does not. Take off the wheel. First, pry the pads away from the disk to give a little wiggle room. Then you can see if there's bearing wobble at the hub. If not, it might be the axle, in any case the next steps are the same. Mark the cam bolt on the strut mount. Saves you an alignment maybe. I hit it with a chisel to mark it. Ink/paint always seems to rub off. Yes, the bearing will need to be pressed. Be sure to use an NTN bearing. In my experience they are better. Replace inner and outer seals. I used to have a shop do it, $90 total, but I bought a $100 press.It could be the halfshaft. You will be able to feel the bearing with it out of the hub anyhow. The shaft should not have rotational play, end to end, by itself. I use the lever clamp type ball joint remover, but check the balljoint for looseness and probably replace it anyhow. Try to AVOID BREAKING the pinchbolt. Patience, lube and possibly rilling in from the threaded end to reduce thread pressure can help. I also replace any caliper where the pads are thinner than the opposite side, which indicates dragging, to me. And new pads both side then too.

These links don't work. Brake pads generally do not retract enough to detect wheel wobble. If there is wobble it's probably a wheel bearing. If there is play up and down it's either a ball joint or wheel bearing. A balljoint would not cause scraping of the caliper. A wheel bearing would. A bad wheel bearing will cause shimmy. Also check the hub bolt.

No change with FWD fuse. I think it's just normal wear at 203k miles. I just want it quieter. One thing, it has a rising falling drone around corners, both ways. Somewhere I read that means spider gears. I changed the fluid , no sparkle, no flakes. I may have done that before, it was clear fluid. Thanks.

The forester doesn't have a frame. Shock towers rust, but those are the only places on the unibody that should affect body integrity. They cannot be repaired AFAIK, and likely all others in your area have similar issues. However, there a MANY Foresters and Imprezas with bad engines to be had for cheap.

After a week or so, the 1" didn't make any difference. I bought an installed the extendmyseat.com floor mounts and the difference is huge. Massively more comfortable. Feels like a totally different car. 2008 Forester (frameless windows) I'm only 5'11" with a 32 inseam and this new setup lets me stretch completely. The mounts required a little modification: drilled a new rear hole 1" forward on the left mount , and cut a notch to get around a driveshaft tunnel reinforcement on the right. They are heavy made. 10 guage, The OEM rear right bolt is barely long enough to grab the threads, but once caught it bolts down securely. Start all bolts as loosely as possible, then tighten. Once the mounts are in the seat mounts flex enough to match up to the extend holes, with some persuading. The mounts are listed for 2008-2013, but I they may have meant 2009-2013 (windowframe cars).

For a first-timer, more detail is helpful. In addition to the "press kit" you will need the "hub and bearing" part unless you have a press and bearing remover. The seals are sold separately, also. I've never done one on the car. I supposed if I did I'd still want my press to remove the outer race from the hub. GDisorders note about checking the knuckle pocket for out-of-round is totally news to me. I suppose i'll eventually buy a bore guage.

IMO wheel bearings are the most likely, but to see/feel actual wobble you need to press back the caliper pistons. When the brakes are at rest they kinda hold the wheel in place, preventing wobble. Pull the wheel off, pry back the brake pads a little, put the wheel back on and see if the hub wobbles.

Tap a chisel into the slot and soak with oil. It will wiggle eventually. Are you sure the bolt is out, not broken off?

I'm thinking that also. I wonder what would make a good cap for the transmission output spline so I could remove the driveshaft altogether. Temporarily only. Nah, better idea... if the carrier bearing is bad it will be rough or loose. I should be able to drop that by itself and see how it is. That's where i'll start.

Is there any way to determine where the actual source of the driveline whine is besides removing the back half of the driveshaft and inserting the FWD fuse? If I remove the rear half of the driveshaft, will the differential still whine? Now it doesn't seem to make any difference if I am on- or off- the throttle. Will just putting the FWD fuse in indicate anything? What should I look/listen for? Thanks, mpergielwalkermi99forester08forester

My 08 Forester is a little cramped and decided I needed a little more legroom, so I removed the driver seat and drilled/carved a couple more holes in the seat track so the locking claw would catch about 1" further back. I love it. 1 inch makes a huge difference. I don't think it will cause problem with the airbag. There is a small sensor that seems to be engaged only at the very rearward limit of the seat track. and the only thing I can seem to determine is that is allows full force expansion of the airbag when engaged. With the extra slots the sense plate is past the sensor and probably no longer activates/inhibits it.. of course I then found http://extendmyseat.com/forester/,. Well I saved $265 maybe,

Never heard of one plugged to the point it would not produce heat. Seems much more likely it is air in they system, standard burp is elevate the front of the car and leave it running with the radiator cap off, then top off.

I suspected a wheel bearing was going out, and then the brakes started to squeak. When I put the car up on a jack the wheel didn't wobble at all. After I changed out the brakes, and put the wheel back on, it wobbled quite a bit. The pads must have been close to the disc and prevented wobble. Afterwards, the extra space between the pads and rotors allowed the wobble to become obvious. Live and learn. Next time, I'll compress the caliper and check for wobble. It will take RAuto a week to get me the bearing. I went with SKF. They don't list an NTN.

1999 Forest N/a auto 205,000 miles. I had it up on stands to diagnose a howling, which is pretty obviously the differential, and when I let off the gas there was a kind of a bang, that seemed to shook the engine. Seems maybe the rear engagement stuck, then cut loose? Accelerating on snow, if I spin the tires, I get the same single bang when the tires cut loose. I don't notice any torque bind, but I think this might be related. If it's a fairly simple fix, like bolting in a solenoid or something, it might be worth fixing. I've done the standard "replace 3 quarts of ATF" every 10k or so. The fluid is clear. The front diff seems quiet enough. AND... What years and combinations of driveshaft would fit my 1999. Looks like same driveshaft up to 2002, but same carrier up to 2008. Thanks for any opinions.

A turbo baja is beat to death in 5 years, then it becomes a normal baja.