robm2

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) or Idle Air Controller (IAC). LIke DaveT says, check the wiring on the CTS. Same goes for the IAC. Another thing to try: The IAC has a stepper motor that opens and closes to provide the correct idle speed. Shoot it full of carb cleaner, let it soak a bit, and turn the engine on and off a few times to work it.

Is there a relay that switches the high beams on? The relays on these things get old and unreliable.

If the solenoid is clicking, but the starter won't turn, it may be the contacts inside the starter motor that get made when the solenoid pulls in. They get worn and burnt. Tapping on the starter might help a bit, it kind of stirs up the contact so a new bit comes into play, but it only works a few times. It is probably easier to replace the contacts than it is to find them to purchase.... I did it once on a Loyale, 10 minutes to get the starter out, 10 minute to pull it apart and change the contacts, and 10 minutes more to replace it.

I replaced one, once. It was a Sachs, quality name, not sure where I got it. It fit fine. The first time I opened the hatch fast, at -20 deg. C, it blew stuff all over, and didn't work anymore. Good thing I still had the custom-cut bit of 1x2 oak still in the back of the car!

I replied in another thread: Yes they will fit. From what I can see on the website, they only have one tire this size, the Ecosa, which is just a standard passenger car radial. Run them at 36 psi minimum. If you can find one that is more aggressive, don't worry, it will fit fine too.

165/80R13 were stock on Loyales in Canada. They will fit perfectly, if you can get them. I ran them for years, until they were no longer available, and had to go to 155/80R 13 for snow tires, and 175/70R13 for summers, which reduced the ground clearance, load capacity, and speedometer accuracy.

CTS = Coolant Temperature Sensor. Check the vacuum lines to get the 4WD to engage. Assuming they are the same in 1986 as 1992? I know some cars had manual 4WD engagement, but if it has a switch, chances are it uses vacuum controlled by solenoid valves.

A comment for Step-a-Toe: 1 US gallon = 3.785 liters I Imperial gallon = 4.546 liters 4 liters to the gallon is sometimes used for quick and dirty calculations, but not when any precision is required. The OP was filling his tank with US gallons of gasoline, so they would be the 3.785 liter version.

The unstable idle can be a sticky IAC (Idle Air Control). This is the ECU controlled valve that bypasses air past the throttle to control the idle speed. It is the cylinder in front of the throttle body. If you can get some carb cleaner in there, through the air inlet hose, it might help.

Wasn't there a place in Oregon that used to rebuild them? I found this place in Minnesota: http://advanceddistributors.com/wordpress1/ Good luck.

+1 for the timing belts. Even if they look intact, there may be stripped teeth.

Funny. All mine had electric fans, and only one had AC, and that was a dealer-installed version. As I recall, the fan rarely ran if the car was moving. Another Canadian market difference, along with the tires.

Loyales all had electric fans. They just bolt to the back of the radiator. A switch in the rad controlled it.

No power does sound like an electrical problem. But the suddenness of the failure would have me checking the timing belts, just in case.

In Canada, all the wagons came with 165SR-13 tires. The modern equivalent is 165/80-13.

155/80-13's don't have quite enough load rating for the Loyale. I use them in the winter (snow tires), as it is cold, I don't go fast (snow and ice, remember?) and I try to keep the load in the car to a minimum. I also make sure I run them at 36 psi or more, to get full load rating for the tire. 175/70-13's have more capacity. They are are a better bet for summer or year-round tires. 165/80-13 are ideal, but hard to find. 186/70-13 are good too, but just as hard to find.

Interesting. Jeszek, how many miles/kilometers in that 10 years of use? My experience with coverless belts was not as good. One broke at about 60000 km. A seized oil pump may have been the issue. Another stripped at about the same number of km's. On another car, one broke, age unknown. The PO had assured me the belts were quite fresh when I bought the car. My climate is completely different from yours. Cold, wet, snowy in the winter (down to -20 deg. C) to hot, dry in the summer (up to 35 deg. C). I wonder how much that affects the longevity?

The Ilco key blanks that fit Loyales are listed under NIssan. I can't remember which blank it is. You may have to put your foot down to get the guy at the hardware store to cut your key on it, but it works.

Be careful with the kitty litter. The modern clumping litter is made out of grains of bentonite clay. It turns into a soft, greasy mess when it gets wet.

No. It has to have a 4 x 140 bolt circle, which is rare as hen's teeth. The right offset is also a good idea.

Happy to be of service. You can test this by using one of the other relays beside it, in the same clump of 4. You may lose a headlight, so this is a daylight-only test. The other relays are identical in every way. The next one to go will be the heater blower relay. If you can find one of these cars at the wrecker, grab all the relays under the dash, and keep them handy for the next time one dies.

As long as you are going in a straight line, you can shift from 2HI to 4HI and back at just about any speed you like. Just back off on the gas when you do. Clutch works too, but is not necessary. I have no experience with 4LO. If your tires are not all the same size, it will stick in 4HI. If this happens, it is time to rotate the tires to even the wear.

There is an o-ring.

Ouch! That is half the cost it was new! I suspect your problem is with the fuel pump relay. They get old and flaky, and stop working. Often, they are temperature sensitive, although it is usually heat that makes them kick out. It is one of the relays in a group of 4 up under the dash board, above the ECU. All the relays in that bunch are the same, so you can swap one of the others in to test it. A quick and dirty fix is to run a wire directly from the battery to the red wire on the FP wiring harness. You can get to it under the back seat, inside the car. I ran like this for 4 months before I figured out what the problem was. The pump would work for awhile, then kick out. I would connect the wire, and carry on. This was when the relay was flaky, not failed. I could do this from the driver's seat. Good luck.

For the price of it, a new HT lead from the coil to the distributor would be worth a try, if your new pump dosen't help.