Ferret54

Having owned a 2001 Outback, other than the known EJ25/4EAT problems, my biggest concern was the rear wheel rot. I can handle the mechanical parts, but I'm NOT a body guy. There is a small pocket on the 95-99 and 00-04 wagons that traps water, road crap and in the north winter salt. It rots right thru to the trunk, and more rot begins. When we realized how bad it had become, my friends body shop buddy took the car for a few weeks, cut all the rot out and welded in smooth areas. No more pockets to catch crap and rot. That was 4 years before we sold that and his repair was still holding up. When I see any wagon from that time, I have yet to see one myself without rot, or a duct tape type repair.

If it is the Hillholder, it has it's own cable from the clutch pedal thru the firewall to the valve mounted just below the master cylinder. Since the clutch is hydraulic, it has it's own cable, Usually the return spring becomes weak or breaks off. many times you will not see the spring after it breaks as it just falls off and gets lost. To the best of my knowledge, there was no rebuild kits ( at least from Subaru ) and no individual parts. The valve was the only p/n in the Subaru system. I would try a junkyard, ebay etc. Quick fix or permanent fix to disable it, as GD suggested, Disconnect the cable, rotate it to the OPEN position then wire tie it open to prevent it from closing again.

Not easy, first time I could not get in there. And using only my hand, I was working 'blind'. After doing it once with the wheel removed and front of liner bent back, we were able to do it many times at 'blind' at the dealership. WORST PART ...... getting the headlight rear cover back on. Since the O ring drys out and falls apart, and is NOT a Subaru part ( comes with the cover ) we ordered 80mm ID, 90mm OD O rings from a supply shop and replaced them just about every time. The REAR cover tabs are NOT spaced evenly. It can only go on 1 way, with the open side of the 'handle' facing down. After doing this once and understanding how the cover goes back on, it became routine. The BRZ uses that same cover and O ring.

Having been a Subaru Tech ( still call myself a mechanic ) for many years and leaving there in 2015. We Remember the Failures and Bad things, Not all those who had no problems. So here are my observations ..... first 2 years of each FB engine had it's issues. From the 2.5L 2011/12 Forester leaks, oil consumption, noisey chains ( TSB for that ) and failing to fill the gas tanks. The 2012/13 2.0L Impreza, 2013 XV/Crosstrek added valve springs but quieted the noisy chains and fewer front engine oil leaks. fewer here came in for oil consumption, but the issue was still there. Finally the 2.5L 2013 Legacy/Outback, mostly here for Oil consumption. I would have liked to report it was solved by now, but my experiences it was not completely. Now I left in 2015, so the 2014/2015 years may have been too new to show any chronic issues, But these are my observations. And owning a 2014 Impreza now with 150K and a 2016 Forester with 100K, we have not seen the issues of the earlier productions. My $.02 ......

These options are probably in the BCM ( Body Control Module ). Most over the counter OBDII tools are programmed for the ECU,ECM,PCM Engine modules, Transmission Modules, Airbag Module and ABS module. Other modules on the CAN buss usually require vehicle specific tools. There are so many indivual controller on the CAN buss these days. You can't even change a radio out for one with better sound/options since it also is on the CAN buss and can control other options from there.

From when I worked at a Subaru Service center, options as you have above were only available with the proper module for that specific year/model with the Subaru Select tool. TOO expensive for me as I continue to do work in my garage/driveway. Best tool I have is an Autel MK906 I paid almost a grand for. Works for every car I service so far. I can operate solenoids and check that they DO work, do cam advances and check the sensor reads properly, etc. Reset and IF manufacturer allow you, change oil change frequency to any presets they have programmed. But Vehicle/User Specific options you pasted above, I only saw with the Subaru SST.

We HAD a 2011 Outback .... had 165K on it when I bought it for our daughter. Did a lot of work including wheel bearings, front bushings, struts etc. Engine was Head Gaskets and timing components. It DID have slight bubbles in radiator. Skip ahead 18 months and 30K later, while on the interstate and in single lane for over 10 miles due to construction, the top of the radiator blew off where the top hose attaches. She had to drive a few miles before she could pull over. Needless to say, after that, engine was TOAST ..... I never tore down a more overheated engine .... even the plastic/composite intake was melted at the heads. Our experience .... My advice.... headgaskets and new radiator at the least. The boards are FULL of high mileage Subarus with cracked or broke radiators. Only other one I had was a cracked side tank on a 98 Forester at just over 200K . But I HAVE had other Subaru's with More mileage on them than those 2 and no radiator issues. and I have owned 14 Subaru's since 1979.

NOPE ..... I have 160K on MY14 Impreza .... same setup on 2.0L ... never had a problem. Others say they hold the gas to the floor on first start to allow engine to crank without starting to prime the filter, but being a retired mechanic, we never did that and I have never seen a problem. With a Fumoto valve, oil changes on the FB engines are about 10 minutes ,,,,, slide pan under and open valve ... while oil drains, replace the filter ..... close, wipe valve and remove pan .... fill with oil .... Takes me longer to put the old oil into container and drive to local auto store for disposal .... Good luck with the 19OB

In Md, On Carfax, I see 2 2012 Impreza Automatic 5 door ( wagon) under 10K. One near Aberdeen https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/JF1GPAL67CH229450 , the other near Annapolis https://www.carfax.com/vehicle/JF1GPAS6XCH238984 . Either one gets you into a NEWER vehicle away from the EJ25 headgasket issues. Just to give you other newer options in your price range. Look around yourself.

Our daughter had a 2011 Outback that made a similar 'clicking' sound after it was shut off. Turned out to be the motor assy that controlled the HVAC selector ( Def/Floor/Dash vents). That motor assy high up on the drivers side of the unit. A real PITA to replace. Had to disassemble a lot of the dashboard and was still difficult to replace.

looks like a Fumoto Valve .... lift the lever and push it... you can read about it on their website. https://www.fumotousa.com/

Here’s a link to my EGR write up on the Forester board years ago.... http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/low-idle-stuttering-erratic-jerking-various-rpms-76450/index3.html#post887065

Owning a 2014 Impreza, yeah I went thru this also at 132K mikes. Valve body best price was about $800 .... then in FSM says after replacing, check fluid level by ATF temp, then do CVT retrain. Valve body kit includes a plastic bonnet you put all around AFTER you remove the intake tube, throttle body ( just remove 4 bolts and push to one side ) and the dogbone and bracket to get to top of transmission. Also FSM has you replace the 2 O-rings on the bottom of the valve body, and retorque to in-lbs the few bolts holding the valve body in place .... in a tight area unless you have a small torque wrench. Being a mechanic for over 45 yrs, and reading about the successful and a few that were not and wanting this to work for a long time INCLUDING the retraining ( some say it's not required but I follow the FSM ), I went back to dealer I bought the last several Subaru's from and know the service manager ( we worked together in the past ). $1350 for all .... 2 qts fluid, valve body, retrain and all done in a day. GRANTED he gave me a break, but for me it was worth it. Car shifts better than before. My experience and observations.

On MY14 Impreza HD radio, some stations had 3 selections within a station. the primary one was the one you were used to listening to. While the 2nd may be all weather from the same station and the 3rd, all news, or different types of music.

Glad you resoled this..... too many times trying to help neighbors, I got into crap I didn't expect ..... like headgasket replacement on 98 Forester ( DOHC ) then weeks later came back with multiple misfires .. Thought Timing belt jumped .... What did I miss .... I miss TIGHTENING the 10mm bolt that holds that cam sensor in place. I apparently just finger tightened and FORGOT to tighten with a rachet.

IIRC there are marks on the cams that must face each other as well as the cam belt timing marks. Also the drivers intake cam is the one with the cam sensor on it. So timing between that and the crank controls spark to the correct cylinder. Recheck .... I did prefer DOHC to SOHC .... for me they seemed easier. SOHC, the drivers intake would always JUMP since it was loaded from intake springs.

I have done 2010 AND 2011 EJ25x head gaskets. Both for External oil leaks and internal leaks. So bear in mind, the weakness still exists. In fact, the last 2011 Outback I did over 2 years ago, BLEW the top hose connection off the radiator while our daughter was on the interstate doing 70 this past summer. By the time she pulled over and we had it towed, the heads AND the block were warped. After many searches, I found this to be common on the 2010-2012 Outbacks ( last to use the EJ25x ). Appears to be a combination of upper radiator weakness and the Long Life Coolant ( blue ) they used, making the plastic VERY BRITTLE. I still have faith in the EJ motor, owned 8 since 1990 and they have served us well. Found a young buyer for that 2011 who was "biting at the bit" to repair and it is back on the road. Our daughter now owns a 2016 Forester, out 14th Subaru since 1979.

Yes Thank you , I stand corrected .... early morning my mind has 'piston slap' LOL And I have owned 3 EA's from 1979 thru 1985, Oil LEAKS GALORE..... but cars ALWAYS STARTED and got me thru bad weather in the Poconos

There is no DRAIN hole for this area once the oil filter is replaced. The last time the filter was replaced, I'll bet they never wiped the area clean before they screwed on the new filter. Just wipe it clean and see if the oil returns. I suspect it will not as IF there was a leak, this small area FILLS and flows over the side really making a MESS. And YES this is the FA/FB engine that replaced the long running EA series. I DO prefer this as if you let it sit for 3-4 hours ( overnight ) the filter comes off with NO OIL MESS. And with a Fumoto valve, and oil change is now under 10 minutes with no mess, Open Fumoto, while draining, replace filter on the top, Close Fumoto ( synthetic 'water' ( 0W-20 ) drains very quickly ). Fill oil ..... DONE. Move old oil to container and take to service station on the corner. 2 FB20s currently in the stable. With 1 EA25 left in the family ( daughter's 2011 Outback ) I still need an old coffee cup to cleanly grasp and remove the old oil filter after I loosen it. This was the cleanest way I ever came up with for all the EA engines I owned since MY90 Legacy LS wagon EA22. Owned the first year for EA in the US, and ALMOST the last. 2012 for Outback/Legacy. Still continued for WRX/STI a few year after that.

Is it a Stick Shift? If it is, could be the PHV , better known as the Hill Holder not releasing. The Return spring becomes weak or breaks on them over time.

Have you replaced either of the front drives shafts? I had a similar noise on a 2001 Outback our daughter owned a few years ago, turned out to be a replaced passenger side front drive shaft. little too much play on inner DOJ joint. Was a Cardone replacement. Other than that noise when in reverse and NOT moving ( loud hum, rattle sound, made door panels rattle ) car drove normal with no other noises or vibrations.

Does this have an EGR? I had sticky EGRs on a few EJ250 engines ( 98, 02, 04 ) and they caused rough idle and misfire in all cylinders. Just a thought as I read this thread.

Bet it’s a front wheel bearing. Done a LOT of them both front and rear on the 2010-14 Outbacks and 2012-16 Imprezas ( same as Crosstrek). Makes a ‘whirring’ sound , like a jet engine at idle to me. Some come right out, others are really rusted in place.

Here’s a link to my EGR write up on the Forester board years ago.... http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/low-idle-stuttering-erratic-jerking-various-rpms-76450/index3.html#post887065

Does it have an EGR? I have seen a sticky EGR cause this. Wrote an entry here many years ago when MY04 Forester had similar symptoms. Also had pending misfires on all 4 cylinders.