Espey16

Ok, I wasn't sure if I could say the brand name on here or not. It's an ADF lift.

Only problem I see, is the hanger coming from the y pipe to the subframe is up above the hanger on the subframe. Shouldn't it hang below the subframe? This would be so much easier to describe if I could post pics lol.

I put a piece of 1/8" steel between the subframe and the y pipe (temporary) and that gave the axle enough clearance where the boot clamp won't hit anymore. I might see about getting slightly longer hangers for the mufflers when I get a new clamp and see if that drops it down sufficiently.

I read a post saying to disconnect the front hanger on each muffler and that would drop the exhaust down far enough where it won't rub, but that made no difference in my case.

I lifted my 2011 forester Sunday, 2" up front and 2 3/8" in the rear. When I finished installing everything I drove it around in front of my house down and back a few times to get the suspension to settle out. Yesterday when I got home I wanted to re-torque the hardware just to make sure I didn't miss anything, and noticed the driver rear cv was rubbing on the exhaust. The diff side boot clamp came off and flung axle grease everywhere. Looks like I'm not the only one to experience this, but from what I've read I can't find a fix for it other than modifying the exhaust. Have any of you had this issue and resolved it without going to an exhaust shop?

There's nothing in it.

At the moment I'm just going to get rid of everything under the hood and cap off the lines just to clean it up.

I think it will work with my water pump, I just got a driver cam tower off the car I got the brackets from and it's power steering and water pump have double pulleys too.

I was at the junk yard a few weeks ago and found a non ac Loyale, so I grabbed the alternator brackets and hardware. I'm in the process of replacing timing belts on my car so I figured now would be a good time to get rid of the ac. My question is, will the non ac brackets work with the water pump on my car? Or will I have to buy a water pump for a non ac car because of the shaft size?

I didn't really think about going down in rim size, I just figured that was what it came with. Looking back, I wish I would've gotten the smallest possible rim because I like having more sidewall. I ended up going with 225/60/19 open country 3s.

I'm also curious about how much I'm gonna have to beat my inner fenders, and if I'm gonna need wheel spacers or not.

Hey guys. I bought a 2" lift for my 2011 forester last week, and purchased wheels for it yesterday. The tire chart on the manufacturer's website states 225/65/16, and 215/70/16 will work, but I bought 17" wheels. Could someone point me in the right direction for the same size tire but 17" rim?

Sorry, I can't post pics off my phone.

I marked the amount of rotation on the old socket with a welding marker, then trimmed the rotation stop tab off the new socket and marked it where it fits in. It will twist in now and the marks line up. Now I just need to wire it up .

So the socket for the Loyale on Rockauto is just a little different. There are 3 alignment tabs on it just like the socket on my GL, 1 big, a small one, then a medium one. The big and medium ones are what lock the socket into the housing. The small one on the Loyale socket is clocked different than the one on my GL. The small tab is like a rotation stop or whatever so you don't twist it too far. Well anyway long story short, the replacement for the Loyale will fit in it just won't rotate to lock in.

I never thought of that, thats a good idea

Yeah, I took my buddy down to Portland a few years ago to get a white GL10 with the EJ22 swap and it was nuts. My SH forester couldn't keep up.

the cts was one of the first things I replaced, $70 later and I have a lifetime warranty on it now.

Its brand new, and I just re tensioned the belts a couple weeks ago. Im fairly certain its the tps thats the problem now. When I replaced it I tried to line it up the best I could with the marks on the old one. It wasn't perfect but it runs.

I'm trying to find some feeler gauges to calibrate my throttle position sensor on my 89 GL, but I can find a set with the .31mm and .79mm gauges required to do the job. Can someone point me in the proper direction?

My passenger brake light likes to work intermittently. Wiggling the wire around will get it to work temporarily. I looked on Rockauto, and they don't have a replacement socket for an 89 GL, but they have a replacement for a Loyale, that says its a turn signal socket. It has 3 wires like mine, and it looks like it takes an 1157 bulb. Is there any difference between the 2 sockets besides color? Stupid question i know, I just want to be sure about what I'm going to buy.

Still idles rough, and dies at times. Sometimes the idle bounces between 1000 and 1500 rpms. I cleared the codes and there was no difference. I know I need to calibrate my tps, I just can't find the proper size feeler gauges.

No, its going if front of a 5 speed dual range.

Yup, I can't post the pics.

Hi guys. I've been gathering parts for a dual exhaust port EJ22 im trying to re seal and put into my EA82 car. I took the flex plate off the other day and it is cracked all the way around the bolts. Its a wonder it still was in 1 piece. The flex plate was pushed towards the engine, and it was rubbing on what I understand is the oil separator plate (left side big one), and the small 2 bolt plate (right side). Should I worry about these parts and replace them or are they ok to re use? Stupid question I know. They don't leak though. If I can figure out how I'll post a pic.