Espey16

I pulled the distributor before the gasket blew and noticed the previous owner or the owner before them had pulled it too. There was a mark where the rotor should be when at tdc on #1, same thing with the gear on the bottom of the distributor. That was when I found out the car would die when I tried to hook up the green connectors. I got it as close as I could to where it would run at the time. It runs well around 3k rpms, but it's just drinking the gas.

Thanks for all the replies you guys. I've had problems with this car since I've had it. I have another thread I can link to in a few minutes that tells about the troubles I've had. Since I replaced multiple sensors and what not, the #3 head gasket went out and was leaking coolant into the cylinder. I had a set of heads cleaned up and given a valve job, installed good used lifters, and got the 2 special o rings from the dealer for the cam tower. Car is running now but it seems to be firing too late. The cylinders getting filled with too much fuel or whatever. And I'm only getting about 22mpg. Before the head gasket went out I tried to check the timing and it would die when the connectors were hooked up also. I just don't know what to do now so i can time it accurately.

Hey everyone. I need to do the timing on my 89 spfi wagon, but when I plug the green test mode connectors together the engine dies. What do you think would cause this?

I don't think so, I dont have a computer. I meant to write sooner, but I got it figured out. I just had to mark the tabs that I think limit how high the window actually goes up and loosen those and everything worked fine. Hardest part of the job was getting what was left of the old window out of the tracks because of the broken glass above the rollers.

Hey guys. While I was at work this weekend someone smashed the driver side, back seat window out of my 89 wagon. I know where 1 is at a junk yard but I've never swapped a window before. Anything I need to know before I go get it today?

Yup, check the black box on the coolant reservoir for a blown fusible link.

That's what I ended up putting in. I wasn't sure if there was a copper gasket in there.

Well that was a success. I cut the connector off the new TPS, and the connector off the stock harness then soldered everything together. The car drove better on my test run than it has the entire time I've had it. The only difference between the 2 was the new TPS has a white wire instead of a green wire like the stock harness has. If anyone is looking for a new TPS, it's part # TPS4085.

It it just a rubber o ring?

Does anyone have a part number for this? Mine is leaking pretty bad and I can't seem to fine anything online.

I bought that tps, itll be here by 3 today. After I get it soldered on and figure out how to adjust it I'll report back.

I currently have an ej out of a 91 legacy sitting in my shed, but I'm kinda scared to dig into the wiring. That's why im asking about a carb swap.

I was planning on the Weber swap, I did it on my last wagon.

I found the tps in this post for about $260 at autozone. So just to be sure I'll be doing this right, I need to de-solder the stock connector on the harness. Then clip the square connection off the sensor, and solder the wires from the connector to the stock harness?

I can't find a tps for my 89 gl so I was wondering what all would be involved with converting it over to carb. Do I need to swap out the intake to get a Weber to bolt up? What do I do about electronics?

Awesome, thank you for the link

Yeah, grounds are all good. There isn't a single ea82 around in the yards anymore. The only option I've seen for a tps was from the dealer or autozone for $300 + and those were 2 and 3 wire.

Does anyone know where to find a tps for this car?

I'm not sure what happened but after the forum updated I got locked out of my account. Shortly after my last post the car kinda crapped out on me while driving down the freeway. I was able to get it home but now it will only idle. If i tap the gas even a little it dies.