Steptoe

I have tried search functions without success on this topic. I have the EJ and it's box crudely sitting in the bay. I have fitted up a pooey old aluminium radiator originally sourced via eBay. Recently felt sorry for the fella in the US region saying he got one from Australia. Get rid of the cap that comes with it and also the washer on the drain tap These are heavy duty cooling capacity so about fatter. With radiator in place, engines rear mounting not sorted - there is a maximum 45 mm clearance between radiator core and crank pulley. I'd like 5-8 mm final clearance for torsional movement so some skinny fans engine side will be needed. The radiator pipe outlets are 30 mm. The EJ top hose pipe is 38.7 mm. Anyone found in -hose adapter/ reducers for part of this task? Any hoses to butcher for sections suggested? Given the masses out there with an EJ in their EA81 bodies there must be so many who have done this and know just what to do and explain easy to someone who is decades behind these pioneers I am thinking most use std EA81 radiators or is the BRZ the way to go now? I recall some have radiator shops braze in new fittings to radiator at least for the lower hose. The top hose looks a crazy angle to deal with. Any suggestions and links, pics and diagrams welcome and appreciated

Any reason why home made exhaust gaskets between head and exhaust flange won't be reliable? Sandwiched with a fine grade sealant I have a little 2 mm sheet sitting about and wondering if anyone has tried before, thinking about the heat treating, annealing? of copper sheet when used as head gaskets

Keep that vac can out of the equation for starters. Then test the can as nearly all I have had have seen better days and leak air or propane into dizzy housing under boost and that was fun and took five months to find!! Maybe tell us the brand of dizzy and module as they may have varied between world markets or been swapped since 86 A few of my early EA82 shared the two pin module in Hitachi of the EA81 Others 87,88 had Denso dizzy with a plastic covered module either side of dizzy insides and I suspect this is what you speak of As Bennie suggested the obvious, clean up the flywheel markings just not while it is running. I use a rotary tool wire brush and once used model paints , green for happy timing mark, red for next one too advanced, yellow next one retarded off the green When at say 8° BTDC, look at dizzy insides to see if it looks like it may be at spark point on those rotor tips Compression test is always a first step even with newer stuff that does not seem to have a trouble code for poor or differing comps

It should not go into limp mode from knock sensor, unless the author meant a split second limp mode. All my knock circuit does on EA82 is pull the ignition timing back about maximum 10 degrees very quickly then progressively add timing back to normal until next knock sensed. I would expect same of EJ ECU

Two cuts sounds like bracket is surgically removed. Done the one cut a few times no dramas. The zip cable tie may give no problems other than inspection by authorities

Yes, Lucky, many nicely engineered hose clamps go through the crusher and shredder. I have collected some different ones from time to time, yet seem to not be useful to me sizes. Narrow bands are useful. I often think the wide, perforated clamps are too wide I think the fastener world calls the clamps I hate - perforated. Probably for what they can do to the hose if too tight The genuine EA wire clamps do a great job yet can be fiddly to remove without damaging them. Some years back I had to buy a genuine hose from Nissan and it came with new wires clamps - they went into my hose clamp collection for later Dave, I will take your knowledge onboard and add it to their strength sometimes not what is expected .... Job is done and coolant now stays inside

Was thinking of Nico and his amazing car and skill

Read this don't hone , before. How come?

Ah yes Lucky, seen one with hex nut instead of wing ...good work. Still don't know how to post stuff other than my text and my photos ( who just said just as well ? ) I remember seeing these with hex head yet not in a spot with limited access, but right in the middle of a 60s or 70s engine bay waiting to snag a sleeve I like to use the EA fuel injector band clamps on these coolant hoses, and did so again but thinking a socket would be better to access in place over a screwdriver bit for the Philips I do hate the common available vented? clamps that tend to cut into rubber hoses, especially smaller diameters

An answer came back to me locally for the right angle application - use a spanner on the clamps screw head - gives a right angle fastening approach. Manifold came off in 30 minutes. Absolutely clean manifold bolts ! I used stainless and copper grease. Someone once commented stainless could be worse than Subaru's originals and corrode more, not so this time I am happy to say. I used hose 8076.07021 instead of correct block to thermostat hose due to lack of local availability 7.5*14*80*80

Yeah , good idea on the one piece which should give things a good support being screwed down around the rim of the aperture. If I have made a one piece all weather carpet liner for my EA82 centre console, should be able to pattern make anything

Thinking back now, I used to set this hose clamp so it can be done from the side, but in hurry to fit manifold with possibly gasket goo setting and just that awkwardness if it's umbilical cord attached - forgot, and set screw in vertically Interestingly found a patent from the 1940s that incorporated bevel gears etc and also the classic car era of a tangential screw. Gonna see if I can get in there with some brutal tools.... Thanks for suggestion

Just measured a Subaru shaped hose with stated ID of 7.5 mm and 14 mm OD The pipe fitting it is intended to fit I think, is 6.70 mm but the onion bulge like the mid point of making a double flare is the 7.5 mm section, not the clamping section

Any of the collective genius know of a hose clamp that has a different angle screw from std clamps, sort of like this looks... It is my attempt at a mock up of what we need in 14 mm for the coolant hose 7.5mm ID (14 mm OD) that goes from the block to inlet manifold below thermostat gasket. On the movie and turbo , the manifold has to come off to replace the hose due to hose clamp access If we had a different axis screw clamp ...

Pretty sure I have this somewhere, thanks Starting be confused with eBay listings to suit same vehicle yet specs differ between sellers. I will aim for similar figures. To add to confusion I got talking to a guy who used to work in F1 development in the ECU and injection area, He suggested I really don't want FPR working all the time with pressures much over injectors need but did not get time to discuss the variations the vacuum must cause

Every EA82 Speedo I have had including several carb had the VSS terminal on the rear panel. I never tested the output

These sort of things can come to an abrupt halt when it comes the budget conscious and many of us falll into this category. On the Miata or MX5 as we call them in Australia there was an avid EA82 guy that tore into everything with great information and ability and funds. He came out with a reportedly by others, a great little RX out of $15,000 2007 sort of spend. He did the Mazda thing on its bum, but did not publish the fact too loudly that it was not a success from what I could make out. He went back to the RX coils and some shocks he had. What you choose to fit must work well for the masses or maybe present the options you are confident suit the low riders, std height or lifted. Would like to see what you come up with

Black marks in white surround is the axis of MY EA81 4 speed dual range manual box lever. Still need to make mount for underside of tunnel to support the rubber and metal shifter stay mount then see if tailshafts lines up and clears things Tailshaft is marked as shorten by 50-52 mm The shift rods laterals both shortened by 60 mm

Fingers !!

Replying to Bennie's question There seems to be a guarded secret on EJ AWD boxes in EA81 bodies. We have seen some, differing between them There must be some good ones out there but as it seems we are all on tight budgets, even if someone went to great trouble to make one for market, might be a hard sell, like the Crossbred ones went I intended to use the captivated nuts in the trans tunnel for the auto box cross member of EA81 to make a four bolt to body one incorporating the idea shown using flat plate from original manual cross member back to member across the auto member holes, with a half pipe steam pipe to clear the sway bar But maybe consider the one plate from front to back but below the sway bar, don't think it will be the lowest point if I do But already running AWD in the Brumby with EA81 manual gearbox xmem and EA81 gearbox brackets and mounts experiencing no problems. And given EA82T puts out similar torque figures to EJ22 NA should do for pissant EJ20 Hoping this picture inspires others to start similar, and share as they go, or share what and how they have done EJ boxes in EA81 bodies I have been sitting on a 3.9:1 rear diff for a decade or more to go with a box sitting about. My donor turned out to have a service record with my local dealer who was able to confirm its rear diff is 3.9:1 Couple that with the regular nominal overall tyre diameter of my factory size 175 .70.13 equivalent in 15" 195 .50 So far, need to see if non lifted body allows EJ tailshafts to clear the gear levers. Anyone able to add, please do Also see will need to make a custom stay bracket to make up for no alignment of EJ to firewall mount

Naru to the rescue ! Thanks Just what section of the manuals did you find this matey? The FSMs have invaluable detail spread about in an odd way sometimes I had 36 psi in mind from series One turbo manuals and used this in practice , finding I had 36psi at idle, dropping to 10 under load explaining why it lacked any giddy up. Needing to tap the pump with a hammer to get it started must have been a clue something was on its way out in that case I simply ordered a pump to suit same era Nissan 3.0 litre turbo and non turbo - an engine GM-H fitted to their mainstay sedan , the VL Commodore. Incidentally in 87 the Vortex turbo had a list price double that of a base model turbo Commodore When ordering this pump a dozen years ago I did not even consider flow rates at pressure or deadhead pressures - sales guys not want to complicate things ! Though now on eBay sellers putting all info forward , detailing a Bosch replacement number, still find they have differing specs for same Bosch number ! Now, to find a 12 mm fuel pressure filter....

There seems to be a few variants on external EFI pumps to suit our EA82T. 12 mm inlet, 8 mm outlet is what I am aiming for But options are on the litres or gallons per hour at ? BAR Some are quoting the volume at three bar ~45psi, others at 5bar ~75 psi The injectors want 35 or so and maybe 45 psi ain't enough I read here or FB with a just because needs it higher sort of reason Anyone got official litres per hour at so many psi? Thinking the 070 Bosch equivalent likely made in Czech republic will do the job

I found that it pays to also order extra main and idle jets either side of the size fitted. it should be mandatory when selling these things, as if it not run sweet out of the box you can go about swapping about instead of waiting (&stewing) for extra jets Mate bought one locally , set up for his application supposedly. The tailpipe analyser picked up something amiss Not even finger tight idle jets !!