Steptoe

Find Jeszek as he knows how to access discontinued websites

You mean also, don't you Bennie? I am doing this for my 92 Brumby. Taking the opportunity to do the prelim fit. Gearbox just sits in there no flywheel or clutch for convenience. Noticed the stay rod alignment engine to body firewall needs a big think

Oh no !!

If only I could find the rest of the bits !!

Cut 60 mm from my GF8 EJ20 AWD 5MT gear shifter and shifter stay rod in an early effort to run the 99 Impreza running gear in my 92 Brumby Yet to prove it works yet so don't take the 60 mm cut at the end near big flat washer to be the way to go just yet

Cut 60 mm from my GF8 EJ20 AWD 5MT gear shifter and shifter stay rod in an early effort to run the 99 Impreza running gear in my 92 Brumby Yet to prove it works yet so don't take the 60 mm cut at the end near big flat washer to be the way to go just yet

I did this swap but was EA82 and PT 4WD 5MT from 1987 wagon gear already in my 89 EA81 Brumby. As it was too tricky to make cyborg inner DOJ in front drive shafts I pulled box apart to swap the 25 spline drive studs for 23 spline to suit factory Brumby drive shafts/ CV shafts. All I needed to do was remove the hi lo selector from the levers, and elongate a mounting plate hole for shifter stabiliser....oh, then found centre diff burnt out so installed another AWD dual range box that I stumbled on so no lever changes But you will find if you use levers from part time 4wd on AWD box will sit in the 4WD Hi engaged position, I have bent my hi lo lever to sit lower, but if you camp out maybe a clothes hook? I am yet to rig up the centre diff lock vac clanger and switches so can't comment

Have you tried genuine supply? If you have the part number they might be able to find available. I have Gen3, as in EA82 front struts in EA81 body. Took a little thought to make it work, holes in correct spot for three studs and a little Emery paper to make strut fit in hub axle

Don't you hate it when you didn't touch the calipers in the first place? I found if you leave a brake hose open for longer than time it takes to swap things quickly, air bleeds right up to the master and is then an exercise in luck to get right. Did you leave hoses open? A gentle slow press to the pedal to floor can help gravity bleed things. I use the Mountain Dew method with just clear bleed hose that is best to go up from bleeder nipple so you can see bubbles a bit easier. A short piece of 4? Mm vac hose between nipple and clear Bleed sequence is sometimes important too

Measure the centres of the studs currently holding carb in place. You will be best off making contact with seller ( an extra effort for both sides I know) to ask of their adaptor plate centres. You have a 50% chance of getting it right first time if picking either

Ensure your torque wrench will work both ways, mine only works right hand thread tightening

I made cam turn tool from another cam wheel off EA82 butted butt to butt. Two or four M6 bolts nutted in place for bolts to lock into engines cam wheel and maybe short M12 bolt and nuts tightened in centre hole to use socket on

I had a weird miss I could not detect by comp test after All Head Service in sMelbourne gave my EA82T heads the full treatment. After swapping injectors between pots, fitting serviced and tested injectors, new plugs,leads,rotor and cap, weird miss still there.... Discussion with AHS suggested the springs were within spec and to replace lash adjusters. This only made miss more pronounced. I then replaced full set of factory valve springs, and as fitted them to heads on block noticed how bleeding soft the "within specification" springs were. Problem resolved. Miss was not on start up, but as soon as received blip would start, then settle away, drive it like this for 20,000 km until springs went in. Caused trouble for propane system backfiring.

Usually we use a year before the EA82 came out for parts order when chasing stuff from 1985 and beyond to discern/ filter out the parts intended for EA82 that don't fit EA81. This is not a foolproof method mind you and there is a chance that in 33 years someone has swapped in different intake and carb. There are two? pattern differences in the various EA81 intakes. The Weber will be the same, just need to compare adaptor . Measure what yours is and get supplier to confirm before ordering I chuckle when timing belt sets say fit EA81 !

Can't see why not, and go carb and carb manifold?

Love your work despite being flat chat with other things. Postage to Australia be a killer - if they shipped to this outpost

Thinking more along the condition of the rubber mounting of the centre bearing - all one piece from memory?

M12 ? Did you need to increase hole size on flanges? Always good to quieten a burnt outflange gasket

A caramel wheel is often handy. Caramel coloured rubber buffer wheel with sacrificial rubber but go lightly or can burn paint off

Yep normal for EA81 to only use two valve stem seals per head. EA82 stepped up to one each valve. I haven't used any sealant on Subaru motors head gaskets except for the lower section where push rods run. Goo each side here to reduce oil leaks in future. I have only ever once not machined head face and that motor crapped out in two months , sucked and burnt coolant. It ran ever so sweet, bit smokey though. Ran solid. Never overheated. Just crapped out all of a sudden

Is there a source for new tailshaft centre bearing with mount?

It is this emission stuff - the plastic bladder, or vapour exchanger? that I guess is why filling instructions are not to fill tank beyond first click off of the filler nozzle. Guessing these can drown from an overfill. Mityvac are in Australia ! OK yeah the vacuum can come all the way from the intake via charcan. Glad you looked at the big picture CZNY Something I need to check after I find the whump whump that feels like the boots are sick of sitting about too much or my centre bearing mount doing same. Meanwhile, her battery keeps going flat, been in my possession for eight years so not bad

All EFI hose in fuel rail replaced back in 2011. It is more a fuel vapour pong not wet fuel leak. Must be time I get a Mighty Vac! Think I have wanted one since first time I saw one 33 years ago. Not something we trip over here in Oz but bet you can get one in Walmart right next to AC refrigerant top up kits. CZ you reckon it is a vacuum hose or just a fuel hose capable of suck and blow? The FSM sort of suggests it is just an air transfer. I am gonna have go in gentle on the boot / trunk inner liners to have a look see.

I used to almost bathe in the stuff and now find the smell about as friendly as someone else's fart. Absolutely hate the smell. There are some pretty good diagrams of the emission circuit and components in the FSM . No mention of the location of a two way valve between the fume separator at the back to the charcan at the front. The fuel cap also has some valving to check. Every once in a while the ever so detailed manuals just miss tiny details - such as the 8 mm ID hose from the charcan cradle base tray to inside the chassis. One thing at a time here, that hose will get plugged or redirected to vent outside my shed