Steptoe

A disected charcoal canister

I found shiny black layer of what I think we're a combination of guns and varnishes that are said to be a byproduct of stale fuel on my valve stems. It smelt of stale fuel Here in Oz a really nicely rebuilt and modified with things like ceramic coated crowns hit its end of life when the owner used an upper cylinder cleaner foam stuff and had it stall soon after application. Never got it started again. Theory was the cleaner dissolved crud but never got to do its job properly for the stall. Crud then found its way to valve stems. Autopsy led to being parted or junked

Does anyone have experience with their EA82 and XT giving off fuelly stink after driving? I also get the bubbling noises up near fuel cap and assuming it has something to do with the pollution fume tank hidden nearby. If I tank fuel cap off, no real pressure but bubbling stops likely due to fumes able to escape up fuel filler pipe. Bubbling noises will resume soon after cap goes back on Then we have the 4 hose charcoal cannister up front - a service replace item I bet no one ever replaced, betno one ever gets it on their dealer service either I have one that looks the same, think it came from a 99 Impreza of mine. It has one fatter pipe blanked off from factory I guess. Going to just fit it up and see. This blanked off ( on the random spare) section is the one that goes to intake ducting on the XT after the MAF I have no idea where the fumes are exiting the vehicle Any knowledge appreciated

How much do you trust the word of the previous owner as to its nearly new condition? Just seems to be the worst to let a car sit too long I have had a car that sat eight years with crusty stuff building up on the sides of the fuel tank, drained it added fresh fuel but i feel it leached nasties out of the crud and it seized up two inlets on EA81. I have also found EA82T that was a mystery to previous owner that had been to Subie experts and still shrugged shoulders. Valve was worn into the guide so was intermittent problems. New K-lines inserted and she has been fine apart from a new mystery - loses power twenty kms into towing 250kg trailer. Is fine when cools down to cold, not that engine itself got hot but I think my 22 DBTDC was a bit harsh under loads - this was NA block using turbo heads with LPG, so 14 degrees beyond std timing. Another mystery I have had was weak valve springs on EA82T thought to be due to heat from turbo ratting number two exhaust springs. New resolved that one, only afer head place insisted springs were to spec. Called BS after I fitted new lifters and problem was worse. Still running EA82T so beware the nay sayers we have in here

Deleted to avoid foot in mouth

This is my cord tidy The rubber booted door switch provides the Earth for relays to boost the trailer volts up to Voltage for trailer LEDs , only while cover is removed, cord is out. It would have been easier to fit old bulb style lights to the trailer

Working like a charm with my little mess of wiring and relays. Going to use our factory relays in their rubber mounts mounted on the inside of the square panel. I left the diodes out for a learning experience The diodes were not needed to stop exciting the coils when trailer not connected ONLY for the hazard light circuit. But with engine running to power up my unused fuel pump circuit now used for powering up LEDs and then to use indicators by stalk, the relays still clicked despite earth cut, until the diodes went in installed my Earth disconnect switch for the relays to not even click when not required With Earth disconnected I could hear a soft click inside , as opposed to operational click. One diode at a time from indicator loom resolved this. Also helped to hook up diodes correct orientation

Unless you chop the centre out and make a feature out of a coupla feet missing for better radiator cooling?

16 hours and this chain was clean! A light scrub with nylon brush and it was all like new. I then soaked more length including first length. So very tidy. I then pulled out a wire brush with brass looking bristles. Scrubbed clean but looked like a golden colour coming over it. Two or three hours later in the cold but drying sun - it was a shiny rust fine dust film of rust again. Totally coated again! Back to square one, but must be prepared with carb soda to neutralise things, heat gun to warm it up and some spray paint

OK this trick may be handy for some of our old girls bits n pieces. My Brumby attaches to this chain whenever she goes a trailer so post should count as relevant. Was not solid chunky, flaky rust but just fine dusty rusty surface all over. Cheap as white vinegar not watered down, about a litre in a cut down two litre milk bottle, about two desert spoons of table salt and for good measure I left the alfoil in the mix. I was using the foil to scrub the chain after just a few hours but almost felt I had been tricked Have successfully cleaned silverware in boiling water, spooning salt and added foil to water, that goes black with gunk off silverware It rained overnight so some water likely in the mix, butcheck out the chain as I pulled it out. Yet to touch to see if the brown crud comes off easy. Don't think the grey bits are where I rubbed with foil

Bloody corrupting this thread with all this L series talk and theme is Voltage loss. So a reading from Sunnie and any other MY EA81 you have is welcome I had no issue with my first LEDs I got from a Kmart clearance bin. Individual circular lights for each brake/tail and orange indicator, so had their own earth wire- no dramas! But being early and cheap and nasty , they did not have enough sunblock on them. Found a plug to use on unused fuel pump power/earth connector to flog power from for the relay set , run along under tray to the RHS cavity Will add diodes so the rest of the indicator circuit stays at 8 Volts ( must be why I never have to replace bulbs ) I keep my trailer plug and cord behind the 2 screw chassis rail end plate for neatness. Gonna fit a pin switch so when towbar in use plate is removed, pin switch earthing activated for relays - just to prevent premature excitement for their coils every time an indicator blinks sans trailer

I grew up with the round, die cast ones as well but prefer the flat now. So, Bennie, LED lights on trailer? I had this problem with B2 as well as B3. I don't recall this problem on my RX but it hardly even knew when it had a trailer hooked up Flat plugs are easier to identify each pin. If anyone has time to measure voltage on either a tow plug or at indicator bulbs I am curious

Cultural differences showing up here. Thanks FerG for the fine detail Here in Oz we have seen US import cars that flash the brake light as an indicator for turning, so I know what you mean. Here in Oz for as long as I can recall we have had a British influence and we have had separate orange turn indicator lens on cars made for our market, then in later years, clear or opaque lens with orange bulb or LED. Trailers also use same orange turn indicators Look at eBay with an .au added to address line and search trailer lights. You are indeed alert and not taking my BS on the earth switching of rear lights. Light bulb moment when of course all tail lights, brake and indicators of EA have a black earth wire on bulb housings.So I jumped the gun on that reasoning. Better do an edit so no one gets a bum steer OK. The LED trailer light assy has one earth wire for stop,tail and indicator and at one function i can't recall they could not all function nicely together and a diode inline insurer stop or tail resolved the issue. Thanks for the interesting links, I will check them soon Here we used to have a fairly simple round plug with 7? Pins available in some states. Others used a flat 7 pin plug, so someone made a fortune out of producing round to flat and flat to round adapter's The round pin has pretty much lost out to the flat type thankfully, but took some time ! All the incandescent bulbs in use are clean and working nicely The box you mention that uses a dedicated power source for trailers is a good idea. Interesting to know of and possibly available here but never seen ....likely out of sight if ever fitted anyway. I will just rig up a pair of relays with a dedicated power supply and fit it inline to the trailer cord just forward of ute rear light assembly, thanks for your massive input

Been sorting LED light issue on my trailer. Problem is the indicator orange operate but at such a dim light level they are almost impossible to see in daylight. All lights of ute are fine and dandy, so too the stop n tail of trailer I had to install a diode for stop tail circuit to fix problem occuring likely due to pos switching of one circuit, neg switching of other when it comes to stop n tail circuits and only one earth wire in light fitting for three functions. Stop tails work fine since No ballast resistors needed or in use I have found rear indicators and trailer plug only have 8.7 V In case dmm display is too slow for the blink I bridged flasher can to stop the blink - still 8.76V Fuse panel on the blink circuit has12 volts Drops to 10 7 at battery input of flash can Fortunately the 8 volts is enough to excite a relay coil so gonna run new 12 v wire from....well I was gonna say up front from fuse panel but just remembered a life saver.... I have no use for the fuel pump power plug I found in the tray cavity behind front driver side cabin! It should have 12 v IGN in supply to power up a relay for each side, will contain an Earth as well Glad I thought of this before any contortion issues working under dash I did bench test to see trailer plug work a relay from trailer plug to a relay with bike battery to save on wire rigging and it worked Curious if others only got low 8 v at trailer plug on EA81/ BRATs/ Brumby/ MV1800 If you can add input/ findings suggestions appreciated

Looks pretty cool anyway Just put the two inlets close to compare Sorry to those who got thinking twin turbo EA82

FerG has got me with his coil grounds through its bracket. There is no coil body grounding in wiring diagrams I have. Having pulled an oil filled coil apart never found any connection to the coils housing. However, years ago a mate mechanic could not start a points based ignition car until I came along and put the coil in its bracket and mounted it where it belonged. Yep, brackets have that mean looking bent tab that looks to dig into coil body on some vehicles, so yeah I thought oil filled coils needed to be earthed, until same mate proved theory not necessary with another car another time Confused??

Ritchie, I have a 99 Impreza EJ20 in one of my Brumbies for sizing up at std height. No problems but the turbo variant with coil over plug....need to at least disconnect engine mounts and raise to remove coils and plugs

I'm not looking ...I have an EJ22 sealed in a box, an EJ20 in a Brumby, coupla ECUs and messy cut to bits looms all going nowhere while enjoy the 12 years of collecting and tinkering - my AWD ea82T Brumby i may sneak back later to look

What about the fact the torsional difference on the engine when in reverse compared to forward. Is there an intake duct between engine and body that might be cracked and that crack seals with regards reverse torsion but opens up and goes lean in forward torsion. Makes it very cheap

It does not hurt to explain that the chassis rails may start out wide at the front but taper down narrower towards the firewall and the engines may be flat but not square for the rear cylinders the one on the left is further back than the one on the right So the clearance issue for the rear of the engines is on the left. We right hand drivers have our heater tap down on the rail nearby I run EA82 in my Brumby and have about 3 mm clearance in this spot thanks to gentle rail taps and filed off the flute on the rocker cover. Currently EA82T for the ease of conversion in component match up and torque in same ballpark of EJ22. Having blown away a Foz EJ20 I now think my EJ conversion will go 2.2 or 2.5 Another thing to consider is if you are or have planned suspension height changes because this single change affects the answers people will have for you - as I learner prior to EA82 conversion. Many said required chassis cutting but turns out may be correct if you have a lift. Then one day I saw in the flesh a std height ute with EA82T and no chassis cuts. Also been in an STi EJ20 motivated Brumby, also std height (& brakes!!) its chassis rails just had some massage and maybe behind the scenes portapower to increase the width

" A few custom bits will be needed" means fabricate or source a previously lived custom fabricated

Just the engine on the drawing board or its transmission as well?

Am I missing something? I clicked on the eBay link for rear bushings above a few posts and pictures and describes 8 Bushes 4 Tubes Surely only one tube and two bushes per trailing/ transverse arm? Only one arm per side Looks like kit does two cars?

Are you tapping into manifold vacuum or ported vacuum off a throttle body? Can't see how it would run without any vacuum