Steptoe

If the cables are crudded up they may be slow or sluggish to release at the end that matters. I would have suggested earlier if I read this...try flip the clip and cable end at the caliper before blame the caliper itself. The caliper is overhaul able . But tricky if in a hurry. Two stages to overhaul. Just the piston side is easy enough. The handbrake side I have done with success and that satisfaction that comes with that. Special tool was a 4" G clamp and ceramic tiling tile wedge and grease made for the job

The factory mags were thirteen but the space saver spare 15". Going to respray my silver 15" space saver rim to satin black and discard the 14" thing

I have broken laminated screens from EA82 trying to remove what were perfect. Practice on a few broken ones first. There are several handyman level tools. The pros use Fein tool like vibrating seal cutters

Just not factory on the Brumby or non touring wagon

An 8 year+ belt As pic looks you got belt off without removing stuff like covers. No covers? Exposes belts to more elements to deal with for reliability. And HELLO Jeszek !

Had to comment just in case you unable to differentiate between a put out sound and flapping sound yeah more load on engine those gaskets make more put out sound. I agree with you it is best to eliminate what you know to be wrong by fixing it but guess you will also lower it. My AWD XT has fwd front struts and sits just on the factory minimum measure from bolt centre of lower control arm inner bush to ground - if that helps. Think the coils are still off EA82 wagon 4wd so maybe if you can reuse your coils with fwd struts maybe not such a bad compromise? it is tarmac warrior so no off road clearances for me to worry about though mind you

Just pulled my Vortex spare last night. It is shiny satin black rim, not silver like my other 15" rim. Tyre still has white Bridgestone inspection logo I think was in tyre crayon! Whoopdy do I hear you all say... Rim looks like it was fitted up once but never driven on. I thought it wise to replace 32 year old tubeless valve

Just noticed you have wiper switch where our RHD have light switch! Your tacho and gauges look very much like our EA82 stuff. Our temp gauge and fuel gauge just had lines no colour or shading

And then the bean counters came along for my GLTA ! Well the EA82T had a pair of solenoid like switches on the strut tower. One to trigger light, other for overboost ecu cut out. Wonder if you got cut out? If so vacuum must go to two devices same location with a T piece in vacuum line. Thanks for the quick pic

This is where coincidence makes it tricky to diagnose online until you post up pictures Ever replaced that timing belt before?

Stock turbo gauge pegged at max .... My EA82T series one was sort of a follow on to EA81 and did not come with a gauge - only a light on dash that would light up at about 2 psi and stay on while boosting. Gave me no idea if I was between 2 or 12. Did turbo Brats get a boost gauge with a dial and needle? Follow vacuum lines from intake manifold and you should find it

The question you ask on vacuum hose worries me you should not be trusting yourself just yet on this safety issue. When replacing that hose if not with automotive part and just hose from the roll ask for vacuum hose so it will transfer the vacuum and not suck in on itself If swapping that inserted check valve practice mouth suck and blow on each end of dud hose and take notes and mark it. If you insert check valve in new hose wrong way things won't work Does check valve work in existing hose? Or is it your problem?

New or used? Manual choke I hope - just seen what I think was the Weber copy on Datsun 180 B engine in a VW van and even though it had just been sorted by an auto elec I saw nothing to suggest e- choke was working and need to be hand suffocated to start. Follow Loyale 2.7 guide strictly and should be a piece of cake

Not a blown exhaust gasket at head to engine pipe?

Only discover these things after fitting new wiper blades

Not sure if it is specific to the best wipe delay unit I have taken from a touring wagon or 90s Brumby or always been like this in my 89 ute IGN on, more than a coupla seconds of just the wash switch I will get two or three wipes without wipers even switched to wipe clear. ACC position only if I do same thing it is just the washers no free wipe ! It might have taken me nearly 20 years to work out if I just want a quick wipe without switching wipers on then off I just need to hold wash please in a few seconds when IGN on and I get the wash and wipe

Being a 2WD whatever front diff ratio is will not impact on rear diff ratio. You can then remove 36 kg of rear diff, axles, moustache bar and tailshaft. You may find the electrical connections may need some attention to work and remember the auto has safety no start functional switch for other than neutral and park so if you do get it in and working before completing electrical swap may need to ensure no one tries to start it in gear! Check wiring connectors of both cars prior to commitment if electrical is a problem for you. Did the 92 four wheel drive sedan auto get upgraded to a four speed electronic all wheel drive? We got the E4AT in the GLTA sedan by about 89. Only seen this transmission in after release import from Japan wagons here

GREAT NEWS ! A visible steering lock has been said to be a 90% deterrent for random theft Did you tell us it had GPS tracking in first post? I have a GPS tracking unit from China for precisely the purpose of tracking via the website provided . When I come to install it I will take note to ensure it is powered up 24/7 and not just when ignition is powered up I have checked out the website - looks legit. Cost just A$25 and only needs 30mb data per month. Was intending to fit it up to my pushbike

Maybe that little rubber elbow that looks to be diverting some air from the fan to the brushes of the fan motor - check is still there, connected and free from internal blockage.

It still sounds from your first to latest report, like a load condition that gives you problems. But also need to take note of what you report on the vacuum suck it lacks with your testing. So many ( not really ) variables for us to suggest but I would still like to see down the cat . No obvious rattles from it? I think the only "load" sensor is the air flow metre. A simple vacuum gauge hook up could be valuable.

Sounds like spfi

I recall doing my EA82T sedan with it on stands at the front, bare rims fitted up and roll out metal tape measure. I got even tyre wear for its 110,000 km life. The difference being the tidy tucked up exhaust of the turbo not interfering with measuring points between the rim insides

These early turbos are not really race engines just the cast iron and alloy snail makes then poke along a bit better. Have now found three of my alloy "intake air ducts" and one is all black, the other, devoid of any paint so it is already prepared for painting. No one took too much pride in the finish of these at factory or foundry level judging by the almost sharp dags still on all these castings

Zero intake vac test done with leak down gear? Regardless with this gear, what steps did you do to get zero vacuum result? Plain old vacuum gauge has been a long time diagnostic tool. Backfires on carby engines have better outcomes than fuelies with sensors, sadly

Even have tread wear indicators on these tyres by Bridgestone !