Steptoe

Thinking the 14 is all that would fit nicely in the part time 4WD RX and GLTA so a smaller space saver would not hurt the non AWD gearbox. My AWD Vortex has the T135 15 and when held up against my 195.50.15 she is a pretty good match so will keep my spare 15 The 14 may get put behind a framed sign "in case of emergency - break glass"

This pic should show my Tracompa-2 T125/70D14 from O4/86 I think came out of FWD XT turbo and I have a Tracompa-2 T135/70D15 from 09/06/85 I am certain was in my made 9/85 GLTA So one being fourteen inch and the other fifteen Quite a marked difference in height between the two. Surely the tyres were not that different between them in height or nominal overall tyre diameter?

3AT has vacuum line from inlet manifold possibly centrally close to below throttle body on Spfi as it is just rear of turbo throttle body. It goes to a vacuum unit on the LHD passenger side just above the tranny pan line. Is it all still ok after backfires? I really only discovered mine on converting to manual, was a sloppy fit on vacuum hose and finger tight screwed in and the bastard used to hold onto each gear until I backed off. Did not affect power, just driveability

Blew out air filter too ...ok intake side as well!

Fergloyale is on the money with suggesting a comp test for a new starting point. The simple task has often brought well respected technicians down who have been suggesting oil leaks onto cam position sensor can and does infiltrate wire looms causing problems, add a few codes to stray thinking further and then Steptoe suffers scoffing for suggesting comp test. 120,60,80,120 in a performance BMW - game over ! Meow? Cats and backfires might be bad news. Blowing out the exhaust port gasket also suggests true backfire in the exhaust rather than an intake backfire 80-85 mph on these 3 speed babies? An older mechanic once told me that was what tacho red line was for - sit there all day if you must! Maybe his Datsun but none of my car's thanks ya deaf bastard!

Well that looks like every other factory air intake duct I have seen . I have another somewhere I think...might do it with TURBO in red, the rest in black. Got one with a blow off valve fitted up too , needs work on the venting side

Wonder if backfire blew out anything like a fuel pressure regulator diaphragm? HT plug leads? Coincidence can also bite you

Your title sounds a little deceptive to me....sounds like you are saying it will not blow in ACC key position. Am I reading correct that once you switch running engine ignition switch to off and likely pull keys out...when go to restart engine the blower fan not work until later, when possibly it has cooled down? It is old and wearing, but not worn out? My RX had in its past life leaks below front windscreen rusty holes or maybe water entering the fan motor via air ducting and would blow fuses and just die. The water used to get at it by the cooling air rubber elbow at the low end. I risked not getting that cooling tube directing air at the brushes? to allow any moisture just drain to the carpet if ever. No more problems. If you suspected other wirrres or switches maybe bypass everything and power direct at full blast temporarily?

Point taken Carfreak. I just figured it is getting hot with use so the heat is coming from somewhere. Given its rubber insulation at both ends it likely gets the heat from the inside therefore maybe some initial cooling but nothing after a certain point. No drop in boost pressure from one end to the other either. Just looked in here to see the sexy photo

Pretty specific font for TURBO not sticking with SUBARU style. I wonder the cost of any umming and arghing thought for this change? And did this different font transfer to the other turbo badges and decals?

Now thinking back, my FWD Vortex turbo came missing some bits including "air intake duct" as the FSM refers to part #4 in one diagram. I guess it was either blank or had FWD recessed but FWD nut much of a claim to much is it?

Looks like someone in the past had an understanding of what it is and does ( or should do if hooked up and everything else still works) going by the extension on the intake schnorkel. I think it's default is flap opens to open end intake and vacuum pull internal flap down to breathe in exhaust warmed air, so it stops functioning as intended may just be bit piggy when engine temp is below op temp.

Reading in a hurry like so many others Bennie or did he edit in "old school" after your comment? Nope. Your comment 19 minutes ago, last edit 21 hours ago

Yeah man. What happened to my punctuation things that I meant to put around the word "intercooler" to communicate in further detail to avoid typing START QUOTE "the cast a!minimum elbow between the turbo and throttle body" END QUOTE so readers would get me? Thought the bean counters were a bit mean ending that raised lettering to be hit with crinkle/wrinkle finish then file finish the top for a sexy look - when it came to the EA82T It is a very crude, basic pipe that offers "some" intercooler, but not what most are used to in air/air or waic But yeah we are on the same page. The dressed up one I saw obviously not genuine finish but I did not know if it was copying a particular year or market style or an individual flair/talent Pics speak words better, so here is my finished product done in Dulux MetalShield Hammered finish 300 gram spray tin - colour is Silver and looks so close to bare alloy until look closer. Red is Humbrol model enamel gloss #220 Black is a left over gloss enamel by Solver made on 18SEP 1991 I think I most always prefer a satin / brushed finish to polished for these things so flat sanded with 600 then 400 wet and dry paper - only in dry form

Wow hot topic! Thanks for the input. There are people out there with more money than brains. Likely had an alternator on its way out without knowing it. Battery is dead, so buy, beg,borrow or pinch another to keep rolling.....and ... just dump the dead one at their convenience. This find makes up for the time I grabbed a nice battery on the road side. Unknowingly at the time it leaked acid onto my new work strides. Don't know what that does? Try it on an old rag sometime The alternator is an AC Delco reman from Rock USA and only 30,000 km old if that. The General makes a good point in not using alternator to fill an empty battery for best alternator life. The old battery was about six years old and had been given to me by electrical engineer of all things coz he thought it was dead , good only for workshop testing etc I found out otherwise, got me through two winters and 65,000 km !

Experiment on the bench and pour a small amount of yellow oil into a small bowl of ATF and just watch what it does. Dunno what ATF is as it washes away with water and do not expect vegetable oil or mineral to do that

the strainer is just a given thing on most makes and models and is not really a "service item" such as other parts mentioned in the service schedule. An item that is in schedule PCV valve yet rarely gets any attention or replacement. As such is likely never replaced on life of most cars, so just as likely not available. I punched mine out as a 15 year old and just became more vigilant replacing fuel filters and not using dodgy fuel containers for supply. No more problems. Moral of the story is ok to remove or pierce the intank pick up nylon gauze sock for better fuel flow. I also had crud build up inside metal fuel line cause cold start running problems. I think it is why previous owner sold it. I resolved it

Just wondering the colours used on the alloy intercooler (between turbo and throttle body) for the recessed lettering SUBARU 4WD TURBO on the flat manifold Series 1 variety I have only ever had black paint for all four words. Think I have seen one item done in a hammer tone with SUBARU 4WD in black and TURBO in red I am sort of partial to natural alloy even though I do my propane manifolds in a Green enamel copying Ford Australia giving their dedicated LPG Falcon rocker covers in a similar green to suggest LPG is a little greener fuel than wet fuel. In half a mind to do similar hammer tone...but want to do 4WD in red to match the mudflaps and Subaru turbo in black. Question is ...were all done in black or did some variants or markets get the red lettering? Hey, it may not be a finned intercooler but it is a darn sight better than the folded tin pipes the turbo Cordia got!

I snaffle the original looking genuine bulbs from wrecks if I can. The new often no name and named stuff can be a let down. Nice to pull brass coloured bulb bases from 60s cars !

Just wondering if a deteriorating battery harms alternator? No problems but just wondering as my old faithful heavy duty battery started to Peter out on cold cranking to get the old propane out and fresh stuff in to ignite. I found a suitable battery dumped in a carpark and grabbed it because old batteries can be useful but found it looked fairly new, charged it slowly over 36 hours and let it sit for a month or so. Swapped in without further charge - feels strong. So wondering if alternators get sick of charging old batteries not holding the cold cranking power

Plug? Stupid auto correct!

Moth balls and rodents do not mix very well so if you plug a car away in a shed or storage for some time or just have rodents cleaning their teeth on car soft stuff.....

I use a fuel cell mounted top side of the tray up against the wall below rear window. Better known as a propane tank and still contains propane and a little butane along with escaped pump oil and other impurities depending on luck It makes for a nicely balance little ute with fuel load weight more central than the low slung fuel tank at the rear. With some good handiwork I can see a leaned used propane tank could be adapted for wet fuel and all their breather and fill lines needed for safety and pollution I had a 100 litre tank in one Brumby holding eighty litres usable of propane which weighs about three quarters of same volume as wet fuel The tanks are about 3 mm thick and filed in place with hoops and decent brackets. Imagine the refill distances on 100 litre tank !

As Dean says .... sometimes this components just stick fast together and may need a gentle poke and twist at several spots with a flat blade screwdriver. But not if someone has sealed it with black sticky goo that is used to bond car panels and glass in with. Heat from a hairdryer instead of too hot heat gun can get some give in this super tacky stuff Gotta love the blown bulb indicator circuits...so easy and simple yet many manufacturers today not caught up with the idea. Nice ute too

The local carwash DIY has weaker than hand soap engine degreaser and signs up saying no outside degreaser or buckets n sponges allowed. So I get the terrific "export" degreaser out across the road in a new commercial estate...start the degreaser pressure pack from top of bonnet underside, then top of firewall down, then engine. Engine was running so I could quickly fly over to the carwash ( four lane road to cross first) Next thing, the engine bay took to flame. Panic All of a sudden bloody bonet stick instead of struts or springs so it stayed up as I hopped into the Brumby and drove , leaning forward and down to see between dashpad and under the still up bonnet. I just drive until I got to the carwash, coins at the ready on floor mat to turn on the water, but by the time I got there the flames had either blown out or burnt out. Lucky I didn't turn the carwash down! The damage was the engine sensor wiring scorched and dizzy cap melted in like it had been microwaved but due to the EA81 running, the rotor kept its running form in shape. Learner a lesson there...just take my own bucket and sponge along with degreaser after attendant hours