Steptoe

Despite such an even keel ( floor is the same) I have eyebrow measures 10 mm lower on the drivers RHS ??

Well the challenge now is to do the sunnies so they do look good on the wedge. I have never seen the (ugly) look you presented on the XT, so I agree with the others. A metallic silver of a lighter shade coated in gloss and new boots could look ok. The between spokes would show off the rear discs.Might need to dump the height too

careful asking this without also declaring your height, If you are 6'2" and like a suggestion made by someone a little or a lot shorter you may be in for upset. I am the longer limbed variety and have been in in EA82 seats in EA81 and wanted more adjustment backwards. I have made aftermarket seats fit me and no one else also made 1990 Mazda 626 seats fit, others have done Forester and Impreza in same Fuji family, MX5 and Suzuki Swift Oz market also been done, with the Suzuki just a minor bolt hole change

got another tacho you can hook up to the coil to see if it does the same? I know of a high energy coil set up on a totally different engine had a jumpy tacho - new seat of HT leads fixed it. Diodes in alternators are reported to be source of some whining noises, try belt off alternator for a moment when you know you can make noise

I will blame the concrete for that small discrepancy

You can't build a house this level...only out 0.3°

or keep it to yourself knowing they are uniquely yours and have that satisfaction. I reckon they look great and had forgotten the two logos were used by Subaru

good to hear Paladin. Did you use idosubaru's trick with the 32mm 12 point socket on the lobe rotor at the rear once pump was removed? I usually do the reseal at same time as belt renewal so just use timing belts in place to undo the 12mm nut of the shaft and other times shoved something in on the sprocket teeth to lock it against something of the pump body but think I have once bent the pulley lip. I find the B faces the Block I would feel a little hesitant with the big socket on the rotor lobes for fear of damage to the critical surfaces but I guess ido has been lucky The FSM does not help in this particular task from memory - like many manuals that say undo or remove and little man in head starts swearing

unlocked non viscous unit. I got it out of an EA82 wagon that was built up by staff of a Subi rally driver Andrew Penny who now has a daughter on the rally scene. The lock was never set up to work and I also took the same impatient install route - something I need to do before too much longer. Thinking something like a central locking door lock actuator might be simpler. Got the LSD up in the bum too The nominal tyre diameter could possibly be different or just the differing construction tolerances might be enough t upset things maybe. I like the chalk stripe idea across the tread then roll to measure trick,,,,must have chalk somewhere_ thanks

what? Not enough they are same size? Having run my GLTA I knew the Brumby had to be AWD or develop traction control for a FWD set up. The torque in FWD would upset traction at certain moments even at light throttle cruising and encountering water run off across the road I would feel a slip No more squealing on roundabouts or turn twisty turns I shimmed the centre diff up to factory specs when I had the box apart so would hate to kill it still waiting for another centre diff to finish off the first box I got caught with Need to pull finger out on my EJ tinkering and get my EJ20 AWD in and running, then maybe freshen up the EJ22 wasting space in the shed

No one has said anything of the details of the rear bumber bar as my mate seems to call them Is this the norm for this year or the US market? We only got the corner bumperettes or the step bar with built in tow bar (was it built in or just bolts to ? I forget) Your sweet ride looks to have what I suspect is the section of a sedans rear bar. That colour is not really beige is it, sort of milk coffee (the drink , gone cold, not the Arnotts bickie) usually looks tatty due to no love, but gosh the colour looks good when washed and polished or even in two pack

neither is Bennie so sure...this is Steptoe we are talking about. The difference in tyre performance and construction was not a consideration while in thrift mode. This Brumby/B.R.A.T. / MV1800 is EA82T flat manifold and AWD with locking centre diff, so the centre diff would be taking care of any diff binding properties. Very pleased with the results of a dozen years of waiting, collecting, tinkering, distractions etc. Did a mountain pass climb a few times recently where a 3.2 litre V6 saw fit to pass the Brumby mid climb but essentially got in the Brumby's way on the way to the top at about the limit of its handling geometry ability and most recently from the same family - a 2000 Forester EJ20 thought he should pass the Brumby as steep climbs came but just did not have the puff to pass or even keep up - all within the posted limits. If the Foz had an EJ22 it may have been a different story.... The last event was done on the mixed breeds, ages and etc of tyres too and did surprisingly well

there is a book by Emjoy with a lot of info. I have only read snippets and scanned through the nominal overall tyre diameter data . Was it this book yo mentioned? Done the front to rear swap with the old Potenzas relegated to the rear, brand new Chinese up front. Totally different car to drive. So it wasn't the directional thing totally causing the problems

the shift boot looks neat - so factory eh...and that speaker grille look ,,shame they are made for the left drive shape, not the right. Or maybe our higher spec sedans got these instead of rattle pockets? Our rattle pockets use two screws at the top to retain, and they sort of require an opening to access them. Seeing this photo has given me an idea. I think I will make a panel but recessed further in than the mounting screws ..need something neat for a boost gauge

somebody go it wrong. we can see by the photos. you should be sending these pics to the people who supplied - they should spot the error immediately

all good comments Al. Just thinking back to roadworthy vehicle inspection manuals, training and reference and possibly the federal government issued stuff over the years - nothing on the age of the tyre and how to decode the numbers ( 3903 suggests 39th week of 2003) for validity to be used on our roads. It could be an interesting topic to raise with insurers, especially insurers of the older classics and vintage cars. So yet to read officially of this well spread theory. Some of the best fun I had as a younger driver was with a pair of 225.60.13 Yokies well aged, off a V8 Torana then shoved under the bum of my Maz1300 2 door wagon, 205.60.13 up front. They were ancient, had loads of rubber, hung on when needed, let go with a squeal when ask of on this amazingly well balanced little beast The higher pressure use comes from those who I know to have been through er,,,specialist driver training and also a pair of them, the trainers themselves - to get maximum performance safety from the tyre. The only wear issues I have had is from neglected inner tie rod replacement or bad ball joints. The adjustable camber kit install seems to have righted a few wrongs as well . First drvie with tyres rolling correct way - feels markedly different and better. I need to put down some specific roads to know better, then swap new to front, old to rear

if your stock carb looks much the same as the first pic with pull side the same follow that pattern. I am curious as to how much longer the old cable is. In RHD world the original length cable is a little on the tight side and I have found the LHD cables are 100 mm longer in the outer cable and give me just that little bit extra to play with for a tidier than factory fit the aftermarket LHD cables I got were made in Italy and I have found I need to enlarge the hole in the firewall for the stopper knob to fit. Dunno if is same for LHD versions in needing to mod to fit. Maybe I altered the lump on the cable as well

jmpjose - that section under the outer air vent....is it blocked off? factory? or has someone done something to it? We got small fob pockets to put stuff in to rattle about. Best left empty if rattles annoy. and the gearshift boot ! Looks tidy no console! Is this factory finish or neato update of yours? I once did similar to a 60s Ford fitting a boot from an 80s Ford direct onto the carpeted hump for same clean lines finish. It used a metal plate to screw to floor to fit boot over neatly. What is the boot out of or meant for do you know?

Did you select the correct year? When ordering parts for the EA81 Gen2 body shape many have found not to use a year after 1984 as things get mixed up with the EA82 body shape and engine that began production late 1984 to 1994 I think it was. At one stage here in Aus we could buy EA81 Gen2 Brumby, EA82 L Series and whatever range of EJ powered Liberty new from Subaru

I forgot to mention this being mostly a tarmac warrior due to the 50 series profile. I can almost imagine most tyre tread design of tar tyres goes out the window on anything less than tar or concrete. Have already discussed In and Out style tyre with a mechanic who trained with a tyre centre. Explained them as the road water squishing outwards. But I question what is wrong with water squishing inwards. Surely that is still getting water away from traction surface? Stumped him Not that I set out to do so. Sipes Bennie, sipes, is tyre tech for slots . I was surprised as to how good the Bridgies were when I worked out they had to be ten years old. Got them off a turbo Vortex hasbeen, that was shod with new shoes and never driven, though some ADHD medicated dude saw fit to cut a square hole in the sidewall of the rear 205.50.15 boots to recover the metal tubeless valve body, rendering a perfect new decent tyre - useless. Fast forward six years and these once near new tyres still look healthy. I know of some now 20 year old Yokies on my old Ford still look pretty good. It was the valve tits that gave way after 17 years. Cannot say the same for the cheaper to buy Chinese bags that turn a funny blue colour after twelve months. $50 for cheap Chinese versus $90 for Japanese brand made varyingly in Japan, Indonesia and this new set - Thailand. That extra $160 a set is very cheap peace of mind over the cheaper donuts that want to slip at the sight of a slight bend in the damp road First task this morning will be to swap sides

has anyone done this? I have put my spare set of tyres on the Brumby shod with never run no name Chinese on the rear and 2003 Bridgestone Potenza GIII on the rear last time I ran the G3s on the rear they lived up to the Potenza name. I had other cheap Chinese on the front that were in need of renewal at the time somehow the fronts had 39 one side, 31 the other. rears 31 and 32 bloody thing was tracking and felt like the whole set like marshmallows, with occasional mind of its own tracking like steering issues adjusted them all to 36 and things are improved but still a little concerned about handling fitting the new Potenza RE003s to the main set I notice the sticker states they are non directional but have an INside and an OUTside which is understood. What I didn't realise is that the old Giii were directional but not INside OUTside types. I was checking the make date numbers and spotted these arrows facing the wrong way ! Tomorrow will be left to right swap for the fronts to see wat difference it makes. You can read all sorts of tripe on the internet and this topic is full of opinions. One comment is that doing this arrow going wrong way can have significant affect on handling performance. At this stage I am prepared to believe this is so and not the combo of quality old tyres and new er..questionable quality tyres In all the decades of tyres I have bought, I have never bought a second set of a particular style until now. These Bridgie Potenza RE003 are a firm side walled tyre. Stick like baby poo to a blanket , wet or dry, makes no difference. And 50,000 km and still shy of the tread wear indicators In 195.50.15 not too bad to remove or fit to 6 ich rims - with the right machine . I will return to report my findings on correct direction, but curious of others experiences with directional fitment gone arse about

The models your kids have should be a good guide The EA82 has not got to a cult status enough yet to warrant paying good money for a well maintained car with burnt clutch and accident damage. Here, that is now still scrap value and nothing more. Your kids cars might well be available for spares for yours if you buy same model, or vice versa. If you lived closer to a population of EA82 I would say buy the EA82 but not for much more than scrap value. You cant test any of the driveline due to burnt out clutch. Some sellers sound like they are confident of something that cannot be driven. Even 15 year old Subarus are changing for peanuts here now or being offered as a want to swap for things like Brumbies

being a 1982 makes it the first year of the same body shape as the models made right up to 1992 in our case in Australia so any tank from any model from the next ten years should fit - just some models had different capacities. I can't see why the bolt pattern would change . Not had any complaints from the guys in the UK who have been sent tanks from Oz - not an exercise for the feint hearted when a wallet is attached ! BUT the EA81 body shape as in GEN2 stopped being sold as anything not Brumby here in Australia after 1984 and possibly same for US and if I recall BRAT sales stopped soon after in the US? So, don't try EA82 tank.....cooling system radiator places have been known to be able to restore fuel tanks. I cleaned my own EA82 mpfi tank with hydrochloric (hydro?) acid which worked great when I followed some internet instructions, Final step was to wash out with carb soda (baking soda in US speak) to neutralise any acid remaining, flush flush flush with fresh water. Recently saw someone restore old metal locks and hinges by soaking in molasses for three months..so if you can get 50 litres of molasses …..

I also miss my GLTA for its slick Flare Red coat and its comfy ride, perfect all round visibility and being very nimble on road and off ( without any lift, just the odd grazed nipple) But she sort of lives in the guise of my Brumby complete with her 2 1/2" exhaust. I kept her and her twins interior bits n switches for years but nobody wanted them

Teamendor sent me a message, very short one, I replied and gone no further. I tried search function on the name and got a zero result Anyone know Teamendor? It was in response to a want post for EA82T S1 dizzy module or mod. One day, just one day I might try build distributorless ignition set up for the old faithful EA82Ts