Steptoe

Just don't push it near any soft tissues, Take tank sender out of tank before poking in towards the tank. Other than that, is about it to look out for

then when it is in...the exhaust..I tried to fit up the engine Y pipe with the next centre section? and that is what hits the castor bar shared with gearbox cross member bracket on the RHS keep the advice from experience coming please! I have 92 Brumby with EJ20 sitting in it screwed to the Impreza 5MT AWD box

Swap is easier said than done . Waiting for a 3.7 EJ box to fall in my lap. Will retain 195.50.15 . If it ever fits up together and goes then will worry about revs. Thanks for heads up though

If there are threads I cant find. FB was not much help. One left it as it was lengthwise just happy to have the thing emerge into the cabin !i No mods. Just the box from the Impreza single range RX wagon GF8 Once it all fits it is all coming out so I can fit my EA82 propane screamer and pt 4wd 5mt box The Impreza is 3.9:1 diff up front so I am planning to install an EA82 3.9 diff - simples

Picking up on something I let sit about a bit I dropped an EJ20 into my EA81GEN2 Brumby It has better valve cover clearance than an EA82 bolted up behind it sans flywheel for now is the AWD 5MT box I am yet to make a gearbox crossmember What am doing is cutting the gear shift and gear shift stay support tube down by well, I thought I said 65mm for the gear lever looks like I marked and started to cut the support lever that goes to the body somewhere, but at 60mm Has anyone cut their levers down to make the EJ box fit in EA81 body? And remembered the details Stupid relied on his memory If only someone produced a gearbox crossmember ....

Oh, and all I used was a fire extinguisher that I kept filled with compressed air !

I did mine metal section by metal section starting at firewall mounted filter then back to rear filter and the final stage to the tank which is where I heard unmistakable sound of crud hit it's empty floor Pristine inside the tank until dirty, rust crud blew out. I used a rag on a wire handle to coax it out the sender hole. Never gave trouble for the next 18 years

I have just been reminded why I don't still have an EA82 L Series! My GLTA remains the most fun, comfortable car I have had - but the headlights on high beam were woeful yellowy light things and worse when I fitted a blue style bulb. The newer style bulb really needed to be dark to get better light. Low light conditions the low beam did SFA. Near misses by people pulling out of stops and give ways increased as if they did not see me at all Then I read a rather technical explanation back then as to the dangers present with changing headlight bulb colours - none of which I can recall , too scientific for me at the time. LED conversions to simpler single or quad lights of the EA81 for me any day. No more near misses Someone once ground a flat round into EA82 headlight lense and ran projector bulb style lighting for great improvement. Nice work on the indicator lights by the way. Reminds me of how difficult the originals have been after decades of service, finding screw clips Ben over tightened so won't release screw, bulbs rusted into their sockets ..years of abuse they just keep on keeping on

The GM-H Commodore tap is not made for cable control as it has a vacuum servo canister but has the four tubes to connect up. It is a shame an MGB or Mustang tap does not fit - as you almost buy every conceivable part for these things!

found my set too....just overpriced and over here in Austraya. Got any photos of your nylon rings Checker board?

OK. Irrespective of temps between -9°C to +42°C I have always run my EA82s NA or turbo on 10W40 or 15W40 and often a Diesel spec for their bigger detergent packages. My daily driver at op temp at idle will drop to zero yet not set off the oil light sensing off another port. A rule of thumb declared in here to expect 10 psi per thousand revs and I mostly get this with normal driving.... Just took my Vortex for a run ...reading the weird metric kg/cm3 gauge it cruises about the 30 to 40 psi at op temp never going lower despite hot 30°C daytime temps. The 3 on the gauge is 42 psi She only has well maintained 180,000 km on her whereas the others , who knows? Current daily turbo is as legend goes, a low km import and it is the low pressure at idle baby. Also smokes enough to need 500 ml top up in 1500 km. Never any bearing knock when gauge goes low. Are there any tweaks or service procedures to wind these pumps minimum up a bit? Surely at 800 rpm these pumps must have some pressure.

I drilled a hole in the top of my Subie size pin punch half depth of a pin? to install, or rather start the installation and just gently tap the wrong end of punch. Glad you got it out so soon. I got the taper of my punch jambed well and good on rear axle and ended up pulling the diff and it stayed as a garden ornament for years. I finally had some luck in removing that punch

Here is a pic of the VariOhm universal any which way TPS and adaptor I made for my flat manifold throttle body to work with my Peel Instruments Lean Bias Logic Propane enrichment unit. It runs the same 8 mm throttle shaft with D flat profile as the Subaru EA throttle bodies

Lucky, I doubt the US took in the GM Euro 2.2 litre Astra but that is what it was ....2006 Bennie got me well summed up until I finish my EJ20 and its AWD 5MT in the Brumby Dave, it might not have been that code quoted. Possibly a special one for GM anyway

Yep. Love it. Satisfaction. Given Subaru has direct injection petrol this is relevant especially if you stick this era in your old EA series Car is towed in with a no start, battery flattened as a result and the roadside assistance diagnosis of possibly bad fuel Reports from owner in its last driving moment sounded like a failing fuel pump. Eager young mechanic trained in a few different shops reaches for brand new diagnostic equipment. Gets a few codes, clears to get one , was it P1911? A bit of online research reveals one code has four possible causes. Great ! Old school does not have high (1760psi) pressure test equipment but wants to get it. Whipper Snapper says no need as scan tool shows pressures around there but peaks n troughs n goes weird so old and new agree to try easiest and quickest and cheapest component component that could cause this - fuel pressure regulator electronic type especially as removal, tinker and refit allegedly gave a change in running. Sorry, we got it idling with battery charge and got a low speed/load driveway crawl and then ok until give it the Berry's. And whipper snapper claims it is running better due to cleared codes other than P1911 Toilet paper to the mouth moment I think just by clearing stored codes Meanwhile we find riser pump in tank is supposed to be 60 psi up to the cam driven high pressure pump New FPR installed - no change OK next possible component fuel pressure sensor at triple the price of FPR and just as simple to access and install just no available info on how to test At this stage very little forum info found. One said after tail chasing this code, it was the high pressure pump. Another find ended on note member was resorting to a new high pressure pump and never came back to end the story This pump was ten times the price of the FPR so a little cautious to try this just yet so the FPS got its chance... Mind at this stage we have pulled low pressure 60 psi line off at the high pressure pump and fuel only dribbled out. Fuel gauge reading 1/8 so we use prime pump to drain contents and refresh with 10 litres premium fuel ..no change from the dribble New FPS arrives and screws into the rail - no change, other than BINGO! the costly scan tool now coming on song - the new sensor is now reporting a rail pressure of 60 psi - from the riser pump in the tank !! So at least the ECU now knows the rail pressure (if it cares) The riser pump pressure just passing through high pressure pump with no increase. Well it's gotta be the 190,000 km old pump. Ordered and compared to old before install. Pump fits to end of camshaft with an old school oil pump style hex drive shaft with a narrow break off weak point engineered into it - something that could have been a cause also. To the credit of whipper snapper he did find fingers could freely drive the HP pump whereas the new one would need a decent knuckle bar and socket to start to turn it This pump was out in 10 minutes yet it took three weeks before it came out for replacement. Whipper snapper could not push his curiosity to at least remove and inspect initially New pump in and she bangs! Little whipper snapper in the early stages boasted he had found my notes it was the HPP so he had written evidence of my (supposedly wrong ) diagnosis $11 K worth of diagnostic scan tools work hell better when on board vehicle sensors are good ! This young guy sometimes works like some people believe techs work - wave magic wand and state a costly component is at fault, chucks an adult size tantrum of a four year old, looks down to the ground and walks off not wanting to discuss any further reasoning.

No. Not tried to buy EA81 heads in US but recall an Australian guy being told by some kid that A$40 each was too much. I've thrown them out in the past ! I still have several sets. Just how much are US guys paying for a used EA81 head?

Gannon is doing the spider to EA82T in northern NSW with a speedyefi speeding ECU. Ausubaru92 is his user name in here On Ausubaru.com.au search posts by Discopotato03 as he did this to a Series One flapper AFM RX turbo. He found the need to adapt the Series One throttle body and TPS in order to feed the early ECU. An aftermarket clockwise?/ Anticlockwise TPS may work on the spider as the spider throttle opens opposite the non spider TPS

I have installed a SAAS brand electronic gauge but think it is only an Australian market brand. I bought a brass T piece to allow both gauge and oil light pressure switch but have since deleted the oil light sender in an attempt to get better or rather a more accurate gauge reading. Someone in here suggested you don't run the two together (possibly in upper case) without explaining why. I think it may be thought should not have the diaphragm of oil light switch working against gauge sender unit. I found no real improvement in gauge readings at idle at operating temperature - still reads close to zero! A word of experience is the tapered threads #### My oil pressure gauge sender has a male taper thread looks like the 1/8" BSPT. It is the coarser 27 tpi. The oil pressure switches of our Japanese engines are finer 28 tpi Some people succeed in forcing one of these male threads into the female thread to force a rethread i use a 28 tpi tapered T adaptor, select which female thread is to get the gauge sender's coarser thread, hit it with 8.0 mm drill bit then retap it to coarser 27 tpi taper tap The low or zero readings on gauge never set the oil pressure light off which suggests either switch sender faulty or gauge not accurate at the lower end of scale. I removed light sender unit from The T piece and now use another port for oil light switch My oil gauge is a 50 mm unit and replaces the clock in my Brumby dash cluster

2445 mm yeah? When I fitted my camber kit and got a four wheel alignment the report came with a wheelbase of 2440 The 195.50.15 "too wide for EA82" wheel and tyre combo scrubbed the fronts of the factory mudflaps. I have since spaced the caster bar with 5 mm each side and aligned wheels myself. Left mudflap still scrubs a little Just had a mate help take a wheelbase measure and got 2448 mm Curiously measured other side ( left) to get 2440 mm Further curious we measured his demonic Daihatsu that has been beautifully set up suspension wise and handles well with perfect tyre wear It also came up about 7 mm shorter on the left Can you people out there measure your wheelbase and state left or right hand drive and if you find differences in left to right wheelbase please?

Such contrasting comments!

Does it need to be auto as it could limit reliable upgrade options that 3 speed 4WD auto? Cracks in heads always need testing no matter what any forum member suggests. The cost of testing could be more than cost of another set of decent heads. Many EA81 have just been refunded, but scored bore?Dunno. I always go overboard and review and new pistons. Worst I got was 120,000 km of hot, hard work out of my last poor thing

one day I am going to insulate a 13 mm open end spanner for this job. You aren't the first nor last to do this.Fusible links are found just a few inches from battery in a black plastic holder screwed to inside of engine bay near edge. They are a master fuse originally red or green silicone like coloured fabric loops. Check them for integrity

Each time I have hoped for failed intake gaskets, luck has not been on my side. It is 30 years old. Chances too likely the temp gauge sender is also. I have found some can't read over a safe quarter or half so when it is running hotter it won't tell you. At sludge forming stage you might try a coolant additive to seal cracks n gaskets and cross those fingers. If you drain sump watch for what comes out first. Water noticed with oil will come first if it's in there

Ya what? Carbon brush missing from new cap? That could be a problem.

if you can find a set of wheels and tyres to swap over or have all four inspected closely or run on a wheel balancer