Steptoe

Zip tied? I never thought of that! I used 100 mile an hour tape on the glass - over engineered by about 80 mph for that exercise Now, an oops! I bought a heavy arsed Bosch pump for Porsche and Saab turbo 45 psi max to fit to my AX7 First hurdle is the 15 mm inlet instead of required 12 mm. Also looks like I may have under spec'd the pump

I found if all my indicator bulbs ...maybe not if...after an alternator spike or surge blew the bejesus out of my 85 GLTA electrics I hit my hazards then later found all bulbs for indicators fried - blasted filament to stick to inside of glass The indicator switch in column buzzed. Found all bulbs dead and as I replaced one by one and checked the buzz turned to a tick tick to perfect when all bulbs replaced 85 86 models do not use a relay device to blink...is some weird but clever method inside combo switch What year is yours?

Measured or checked to see if ignition on voltage can be found at coils positive terminal? If no ignition power you can Hotwire it ...connect battery pos to coil positive then while this connection is there try cranking It is behaving like a module on its last legs While you wait for parts to arrive maybe just try illogical things such as clean up mating surfaces of earth and power contacts at battery and body/ engine block Tell us how why what your "fuse block" is that you replaced the FL's with?

Order a 'small engine' spark tester - looks like a spark plug but with an alligator style clip spot welded to it. One person spark tests become easy

Wow, someone makes a tool like that?! Exactly what I imagine a useful tool could be to 'invent' !! Amazon demands that we Aussies use amazon.com.au which I felt was quoting me higher prices, reasonable postage, an impression that stock was in Oz, yet postage time similar as if it came from USA anyway We tossed sales tax and replaced it with GST ( goods and services tax) in 2000 but until July last year GST did not apply to purchases overseas. When this applied eBay would hit us up separately for the GST and I think this is why Amazon steers us through its .com.au site Will give them a shot on these. Carfreak, lucky there is considerable difference in the mounting centres between the two as it allows for an easier adaptor

Not at 87° !

That's why the mounting block tinkering,no holes to Fuji up alignment wise - and had not thought that stainless also harder to tap. Others may like to try but I am going mounting block method I will need to mount the block then the two pin module with tape around centre spindle to help align where module should sit then maybe start drill hole through modules holes, then reduce drill bit to suit M4 thread.. Why it may not work is I think there is a coil in the coil part of module. It may need to sit at correct height in relation to the stator star thing and magnet..... MSD unit can do adjustable boost control knob and base setting - but no knock retard

I have always felt the same on fuel pressure just not got around to it coz I went propane. Wondered how oil pressure would go long term as we use them for short diagnostic times. Tell me it is not a capillary tube style please !! The more monitoring the better though hard for us pre OBD2 guys. My passenger can see my gas regulator temp, I can only hear the alarm at 3°C before it freezes over. I run a separate 95°C alarm for engine temp and another again to view digital temp and fans on at 92°C I want to do intake air temp,ambient and a time piece but running out of viewable space !

A work in progress to mount a common old two pin module in the 85,86 style turbo dizzies, and I suspect will work for EA81T The idea is to mount the block to dizzy plate using the mounting holes for the module. You could try drilling,tapping into the tough old stainless steel ( or is it took steel? ) plate if you can get drill to drill once correct spot! There is enough in the difference mounting distances between the four pin original module to be comfortable drilling and tapping holes for two pin module inside from the four pin module/ block mounting holes. This mod should allow for safe sensible driving to get most out of trouble if/ when the four pin spark delay type module fails. By retaining original distributor allows to keep boost retard function of vacuum advance/ boost retard can - so long as no holes in it !! For a one piece mounting adaptor block it needs to be this shape to fit inside dizzy body and clear the rotating plate in the centre I may need to turn the underside into a heatsink for I fear in this form it will be a heat bank You could do two mirror image mounting blocks I wish I was a 3D printer! I think this is MKiv and due to parralax error I felt the need to trim it too far I am making these 1980s style..maybe draconic 1970s style.highschool workshop methods except no smart arse hard marking teacher breathing down my neck! Slow and tedious and no precision at all Funny, realised I have something he made - should pass it to old class mates to mark him on it The original module sits on 8 ? mm high spacers . i tried to replicate the position of the module and found 10 mm space was going to be exact But, will this module work at this 10 mm elevation? i don't know if it's construction, how,why or what the...about how it's innards react with the stator star thing etc Wow. Photo looks ok. I had adjusted device to take VGA grade pic. Loaded fast. Will need its own two wire lead to a suitable coil LP Comments? Ideas! Suggestions? all welcome

Timing now set to factory instead of possibly 30° btdc ( was off the scaled marks by long shot) small bore up pipe and twin core EA81 radiator in front the EA82T took it up a mountain test drive in rediculous heat twin fans on, heater blowing hot and she ran at 87°C , eight better than when she was in the donor GLTA happy

Tambox reckons the ECU and sole Noida control gives the driver the best of both worlds with the larger bore up pipe

I suspect you are correct. Possibly all aftermarket stuff built more robust. I ran my turbo for months with knock sensor not even connected as I failed to hook the big black plug together due to stupidity ( still doing it too, found just today I left heater hose clamp way undone, not just mildly - and in our hotest 40°C days!) Propane is my fuel. Better knock resistance. I am on about MKiv of a adaptor block to screw to dizzy base plate in order to mount a module from a standard common old two pin module for next emergency. Even a standard dizzy could get me by but it does not support boost retard And having run my turbo dizzy in non turbo engine it was obvious it's advance curve was not suitable for NA. To run NA curve in turbo might be detrimental

My Ausdm GLTA build date Sept 85 had a pair of solenoids right strut tower. One for green boosting now light in dash, other for over boost injector cut

I thought fpralways kept pressures at 36 psi. Only once had gauge on when I suspected fuel pump. Idled at 36 but as soon as asked for boost it faltered and gauge read 10 psi going back to 36 at idle immediately. New pump resolved problem. Common problem for us not to diagnose when things are healthy

I have done this test just using ten inches of 1/2" extension socket to block. There is a single white connector female spade inside near coil. Black wire white trace. I used to have an LCD display in my GLTA where clock used to live. It was independent ly powered by SLA battery in glovebox and able to read as low as 1 Volt Just ignition on should be 5V then engine running sits at 1.7V until knocks send reading up to 4.5V Unsure what or if steps of Voltage are but have seen a few. As soon as Volts presented at this line end test connector I saw timing marks step back from 20 to 10 then once stopped induced knock seemed to quickly step back to 20 in 2 degree steps I fitted new timing belts that sort of set timing off the scale by a few degrees. I already had it at 26°btdc so think I had 30? Roadworks 40 kph speed zone and inconsiderate a flying past me so when it upped to 80 I was in second and stood on it getting there quick enough then pinged like nuts until I heard it, backed off and saw this big puff off smoke out tail pipe I have since reset to 20° and no more ping. It never feels sluggish when knock Volts showed on Volt read out in dash

That's what I like to hear ! There is enough hatred towards these old EA82 turbos someone must have bits they will never use and likely Chuck. I had mine fail and lucky Ausubaru92 parted with one of his and dispatched very quickly to get me rolling again To have a spare onboard could be a life saver. Embarassing to be taken home on an all up lift tow truck. Lucky the ' hood was quiet at the time. Snuck the Brum into the shed quickly

I am hoping someone finds that haul of NOS or someone bought spare by Airtex and never installed

Thanks CZ, have seen this before and as soon as I see it fits Brats and Brumbies I suspect they have it wrong. But OK maybe turbo brat. I have been in touch with both Standard Motor Products and AirtexWells - both were suppliers of this module but no longer. Both companies were good enough to reply

Did you answer to question if carbon brush is in underside of cap?

Do you know how to test coils between the two screw terminals, then tower and post? terminals

Err.. that's right loyalty swap...forgot that detail So to recap..the gist is you swapped in a Hitachi electronic.distributor in place of a ND electronic and can't get spark to plugs unless you change back to ND? ND was not points was it? Points coils usually get 8 or 9 V via ceramic resistor, with need ful 12 and exclude resistor. JIYDK

It's an Impreza engine crossmember cut down to mount to engine stand for a more stable engine Dolley or maybe even as a double decker storage thing

There must be some good ones of these improved aftermarket ones floating about wrecking yards or Subject enthusiasts no longer loved or cared for. Just the module no need for the entire dizzy contact me or my also known as Jono

My alter ego Jono wants if cheap enough in working condition

In case anyone knows of a wrecking yard or just plain has these kicking about