Steptoe

I swear the change from. 87 onwards 41mm orifice turbo exhaust cross over up pipe to the first series 85/86 35 mm pipe last week has increased the accelerator pedal 'spring' tension!

New L clutch cable genuine close to $100 from Subaru this year. Really need the extra leverage that the L pedal crank gives.

I had an spfi, an mpfi spider and a non spider mpfi to play with and could only ever achieve 0.4 to 0.5 V change through entire closed to full throttle positions. I needed the modern accepted ranges of 0.5 to 4.5 V for my application and ended up getting a new adaptable unit to fit up I think my sub units worked in reverse or I was working wires in reverse

20 mm brass for EA81 and 82. Three per head. Dunno if ea71 the same? And GDs socket suggestion ...use socket that fits inside the cup and that is where to belt it. But loose fit socket of you might get socket stuck as it shrinks snug tight. I think it is 0.15 mm larger than nominal hole size to stay jammed in over all the expanding contracting going on

I have used non genuine head gaskets in one or two EA82 and no problems at all with their service. What I do find is every genuine HG I have used, the retension after start, op temp then cool down.... absolutely no extra torque was needed , whereas aftermarket took some varying amounts of extra torque to get to spec. Wait for damaged gasket to be replaced ...if only for me. I have copped a few damaged gaskets from the US. Such a PITA !!

it is your " while many modern synthetic oils are not going to play nice in an older engine" that keeps me with what I know. I am curious as to what synthetics are known to not take bat and ball home with our EA82's though and are the benefits noticeable? Extend oil change intervals etc

EA81 distributor modules tend to give warning signs before leaving you right in it

Good work. Hate to think what the postage would be if you ordered elsewhere in America where they seem to start at US$100 for an envelope ! Rock will be kind to you Bennie

Gave my EA82T new belts only today, figuring better on the car than in a box safe at home when unknown history one sit in my supposed low km engine. It is like giving the thing a tune up , new belts. I like to keep them enclosed in what Fuji gave them and add sealant both sides of water pump housing. Did not even think (or dare) spin the bearings of idler or tensioners ...too much of a rush with one focus in mind

Shame you can't supply the better digs nearby to encourage whole house clean up and move out. They have good taste in cars anyway

Has anyone ever thought an old ( or new - your option) piston would work as a rear main seal whacker-innerer tool? 92 mm std bore piston with full skirt is just a mm or two smaller than OD of a 76*93*10 RMOS !

I would expect the wire swap does not involve the black as it is the earth,nor the red as it might likely be power

If what GD recalls is correct and he has read my query to the detail I ask it would mean there are two different optical modules

You bought it new in 1986 and still got it !! That's impressive !!!

Well done. Now just wait for the EA82 naysayers to pipe up They are just an engine that gives and gives, then just once in a while deserves a freshen up which many have no time,patience or money for -so never find out Seen this time and again, done right gives owner joy once the cost pain is forgotten Once had a tight wad fighter pilot finally surrender to insistence his EA82 got new lifters along with his reseal and belt kit, water pump and hoses. Was ever so thankful for the result

OK. I bought a kit made to 'adapt' said kit to the EA81 engine crossmembers' lower control arm bolt hole. At first it was sold to me as a kit for this model but when discussing some set backs with the engineer/ manufacturer over a bad telephone line he comes up with it is a universal kit. This project was shelved a few years ago and recently tackled to completion It is claimed that 2° of camber can be achieved After a four wheel hook up alignment that near 2° camber positive was achieved. What the rather crude and now evident 'generic' instructions did not indicate nor three telephone discussions with the design engineer/ manufacturer himself did anything suggest that you don't get something for nothing See? I am getting there...the wheel aligner print of before and after spec sheet suggest that ~2° of caster disappeared !! As did 5 mm of my wheelbase ! And as a bonus the wheel aligner said effing zip...so I discover for myself what this castor/ wheelbase change does to the LCA bush - cream and Brian like a Ford Foulcan that this adjustable camber kit is borrowed from & the tyres scrub the plastic mud flaps...the genuine Brumby ones I got to thinking about adjustable castor bars ...then thought of shimming the castor bar !! Bought a pair of 5 mm thick flat metal plates 48 mm diameter and conned a friendly fella to use his 50 tonne hole punch to knock 18 mm hole in the centre. Done. Painted up. Installed against the forward side of the body bracket and adjusted the tie rods defeating paying a dude to do the alignment last week An old bloke, former mechanic I know used to carry around his telescoping pieces of extruded aluminium tube 16 mm OD with a 12.~ OD inner tube set to fit inside his rims to adjust his wheel alignment, so I copied 81 year old Don and did same just before upsetting things. So, another subs dude then tells me ( hi Greg ) the washer shim trick is standard practice for caster bar when doing a lift kit. heard a clunk tonight have I upset the bushes jobs at the back of the caster bar from centreing the caster bar from hitting it's mounting bracket? what a long story to ask a question !!

I misread as you already got EJ in the XT Word is you need to space the front castor bar bracket further from the body to clear underside of bonnet Your EJ looks to be free from AC and PS. I just measured up an EJ20 alternator only drive belt to be about 5PK700 and luckily that is a size available My project is EJ20 into std height EA81 Brumby

I recall someone saying EA81 PS does not use the rubber cushioning flange as found on the MS so when looking through my shed started to call it BS. i have a knuckle shaft with rubber flange in my PS kit jus had a look at an old rotting wagon at the back of an a friend's hoard ( hemmed in by only 30 cars or so) It looks non modified and has rubber flange up high just off the steering column then double ? knuckle below before the racks input splined shaft Duscovered that EA82 spfi on EA81 and power steering pump brackets do not go together so time to fit back to original in order to fit PS so I can say I can say I have done it ( and confident in saying it runs good when I try sell it off to highest bidder to fund more tinkering)

See if pic works 20202AA000 and 010 One is neat round inner hole other has two chunks out of inner hole. Either should do About 2 or 3 mm bigger OD than EA My 99 GF8 Impreza but likely all EJ stuff rear bush of lower wishbone rubber washers look to be convenient part to use to replace those on our EA series

have you found a limitation so far? i used to run 14" steel Sunraysia rims that should still be available new from intrepid tyre and rim merchants willing to ring about to source them. Then 185.70.14 tyres might give you a little more clearance. Pretty certain I ran this size if you venture on to some Facebook groups may find lift kit still available new or previously loved. Have seen a few EA81 and 82 with two inch lifts look hardly noticeable to the average Joe.

if this w9rks should see an abortion of a modification someone made to this EA82 T crossover pipe Looks like someone thought they needed to open it up for better flow but I think it may be why this engine won't walk up the same hills in 5th my other EA82T used to. Engine coming g out to swap in a better more factory pipe of the smaller 36 mm hole under turbo, think same as this abortion. Also have 42 mm one but it sort of makes the engine get away from me, spin out too fast and lose the torque I want The engine came out of a car that came out of a Subaru rally driver runs, so thought it may have been one of his go faster mods. Now think not

I had trouble calling the diff in the back of the gearbox a "centre diff" until I worked out it is central - to the front diff and rear axle diff

Horn contacts dry and just waiting for internal heat to melt the lube a bit to spread around?

Have you ever replaced the brake flexible hoses? At this age I can totally recommend doing so. Recently watched a highly skilled brake specialist do a bench bleed just he was smarter - left it in vehicle and operator pump pedal as he bled not from bleeder nipples but the numerous output pipe nuts. The car was a basket case with morons working on it earlier. I have never seen anyone brave enough to bleed pipe nuts on absunits before either. A trick he advised was to jamb pedal on overnight in case air wanted to travel back up through valves in its own time. Better pedal next day

Yeah. Tell us how you did belts and firing order and direction you believed rotor button turns. We might then better zero in on problem