Steptoe

There don't seem to be many different dimension lights in these quad light setups. I used Toyota land cruiser as a fitment comparo -successfully but in LED I think if you for anything off normal for the inner high beams you may need to rejig wiring as I found simply plugging up to a bulb style insert provided an earthing that caused high beam in all four all the time lights are on

Started looking at this in 2015 or so It will cost more than a free EJ, almost as much as an EJ exhaust to fit EA body Might go better, add some Euro Ford reliability ** cough ** , oh STOP it !! i scored a free EDIS module from a 1985 Ford Mondeo crippled due to no acc cables available There is a need for a trigger wheel to be added to crank pulley but no room in the Brumby I think others have used EA82 optical dizzy to run these things?? any info and positive advice welcome i have ej22 in the shed, an EJ20 in a Brumby and those projects are stagnant

Performance ? Out of these things? i must have some rods but am in Australia Start a new thread with title to suggest want EA conrods posted to .....insert state..... Pistons turn up on eBay.com in USA or UK from time to time....which is where I get them from time to time Got some EA71 for an EA82 build one day - flat tops oh yeah ( there goes the free spinner ) I gave heard a Weber 32/36 set up well can be as good as putting twin carbs on

I have had a three week old complete new shaft develop this quite powerful wobble. I usually keep a known good shaft I made up out of old bits, purely as a diagnostic swap in One of the longest lasting pair of shafts I had were slapped together out of a wide assortment of used bits

A question on the carb choice...have you run this successfully before? A fella here in Oz fitted one to an EA81 on a 600kg? trike. I think Tweety was a little over fuelling down low...think

Dude, it may better for you to list or describe the parts you need. Otherwise request as posted above may get bypassed into the too hard tray I run EA82T and non turbo My RX sedan was most fun car I ever had so I understand your weird passion

I have a project. It requires a TPS, and TPS requires a stable5V supply Project is a lean bias propane fuel enrichment regulator that uses my impco propane system to run in a lean state and the electronic box reads off O2 sensor then makes adjustments to fuel demands sneaking a little bit of propane from the converter through a vapour valve and a jet via a bypass Thanks for asking Post is only 107 weeks old

Look up engine watchdog tm2 and tm4 Cheaper priced one is engine guard Both Australia , at least first sends to the world

Also Get a compartment box like for bits n bobs you can see into Tape on the lid to mark each contents Start top left, work across top then down to next row for all the screws in each step So reassembly you have a sequential clue in reverse of what goes where, when and with what

When I first asked a Subaru specialist shop I was told step one was remove windscreen. What a crock.... 1/4" sockets, extensions and wobble uni joint make it so easy When you get those vent covers out ....I cut 25 mm holes directly over the three bolt locations, added rubber bung plugs for the next time Keep a few lines pages to write your own notes for reassembly - I did still got them on paper Unsure if your fan and hot cold controls are same as our Brumbies , you can leave it in place so as not to have to disconnect heater tap cable You juggle the panel up or down and across to be behind the dash so it just stays when pull dash out. Reverse juggle panel back in front of dash part

I love how these were designed to be installed in position where no valve spring tension is trying to rotate bits out of alignment. The pin holes in the front face of cam cog with one at 12, other at 6 helps line stuff up, as does the line of the cam box to head join with things. Really pays to spin a few times to check everything lines up and belt tension still good Good to see you sorted and reported back

I had a funny one drivers side rear on Project Cheap Grief. There at slow speed, snerk, sne-erk, snerk ...you get the idea Found wheel bearing had play, so nicked it up to spec. Fixed the noise and free play. A year later when pulling car down for donating organs to a Brumby, I found the bearing in a state of distress Neither post any help I am sure. Smurf poo on everything?

Try removing the pads, then take it for a quick run up the highway. Come back and tell us how it goes

Are you thinking but not telling us that you want to fit next radio by same tuning and volume control mounting holes? A standard sort retro fitment? Instead of converting a universal DIN carriage? That would be neat now that mech less is the latest way to go...

The old wire coat hanger from the dry cleaners here in Oz have been bent to suitable shapes for all sorts of things - door lock opening, Oz shape inspired aerials .... Has anyone mentioned inspection camera for a look see?

Saw no evidence other than chewed stick but lucky it didn't jamb anything I suppose

The gears chew up dipsticks with seemingly no trouble as I found with mine

Oh oh, are you saying and circling some part of the Weber? choke components missing or loose down its Venturi? Something stick in between intake valve and valve seat? A compression test with all plugs out for next step. If something is stuck you may need to pull inlet manifold off and blow compressed air or desperately - water in spark hole to flush stuff backwards, turning engine over slowly by hand to open valves

Barr's?? I thought that was an Aussie product only? Been confused on this brand thing before, such as Kellogg"s

Idosubaru has a good solution offer. GD does not mince his words. If you want to bypass the turbo oil supply at the back of the head , I think you will find it is M10 1.5 pitch I am still waiting to read of those having actually run an EA82T with turbo deleted. I know we have the theorists. I have seen an old Volvo the owner removed the turbo and bodgied up a housing out of metal plate to fit in the turbos place. I suspect it was NA in the first place so may not be good example of a low comp engine

You'd be surprised Bennie at the differences of mixing bike bits

In the interest of broad opinion, I would leave it and see. Sometimes goof-ups can be nice surprise. Been doing this a bit rebuilding mtb's

Well, what level of skill have you got? Rather than try test bits, you could try throwing a complete set of tune up bits at it and hope for the best. Pull dizzy cap off and peek inside, tell us what you find. Compression test also helps share info

Hmmmm....good you sorted it. Not good my memory is failing and I am giving poop advice thiugh it is nearly 12 years since I rebuilt mine .....

No, you have it wrong on when the lifters go in. Uh, oh Jongo ! You are not putting solids into cases that had hydraulic lifters are you? From memory the non solids had an insert in the cases I don't know if hydraulics are smaller diameter than solids but maybe ... Also read a longtime ago that the pushrods between the two lifter types differed, mentioning oil flow through character istics ....how true no idea I do recall looking at my low miler imported from Japan hydraulic engine that it looked like the hydraulic lifters sleeves need removal to use solids in their place. All decades ago so memory is not reliable