Steptoe

My first turbo fuel pump gave 36 psi at idle, but as soon as I asked anything of it out the driveway I watched fuel pressure gauge T,d into after filter, taped to windscreen - dropped to 10 psi until I backed off, then at idle, sat at 36 again. Tricky blighter

That black/ yellow wire next to coil , has a single white female plastic housing? No need to connect it until you are ready for some fun it will have 5V with IGN ON while ENG Off. When you get engine running, that wire should then drop to 1.7V it is for diagnostic purposes for knock control

Can you test the pressure? Mpfi need 36 psi and if I recall correctly spfi need about half that ?? It all depends on fuel pressure regulator too if both pumps push out more

I learnt to do it the longer, easier way, by taking hub off vehicle, poking stub through from rear until it is jammed in and holds weight off the driveshaft Then lift hub so gearbox face end of shaft is off ground best use block off wood Then drop, lift, drop, lift, drop, lift drop uses weight of hub to work in Steptoe's favour Never had any further dramas, never needed to freeze shrink stuff in freezer or apply heat

Anti theft at a basic level

Looking to change stance and ride height? Fitting 4wd ones may fit but change damping rates and be different if you fitted fwd coils to 4wd struts. I have no idea what results. If 4wd still available, fwd may also be from dealer if you can find part number I managed to make 85 and later struts fit but involves some work and use top mount as well

I have had one auto 84 EA81 sedan and I think it also had this micro switch at accelerator pedal. It may be switching earth or positive so keep this in mind as you check

Three plug ecu. Check . Flapper AFM then?and vac can on your dizzy?

Handbrake on, check it holds, ignition on, then try your Hotwire trick you describe here, and it might start!

I had an 85 turbo sedan. I converted it to a 5MT 4WD DR and had to do a loop or link bypass of the don't start in gear switch of the old auto box and from memory, did this at a white plastic connector plug very close to the handbrake guts at carpet level. This might be another check point for you. Meanwhile, as you are keen to get it running in your shed you want want to start an upgrade to the starter circuit by adding a starter motor solenoid relay. While in shed with this relay set up you can bypass safety built in and start car in gear and cause accident, injury or death(s) so lock the shifter in P. position while trying to diagnose I used a section of the fat guage B/W wire from a donor. Use a horn relay by Bosch with simple 85,86,87 & 30 terminals. Fit it in a handy place near starter motor. Another fat wire battery positive, 20 A fuse is what I used between bat pos and 30 terminal of relay. B/W wire from 87 terminal to starter solenoid Now for diagnostic purposes need to add ground connection wire to terminal 85 As soon as you connect wire from 86 terminal to battery positive your starter motor will begin to crank even if you don't have ignition key in or on This will get engine cranking.If trans is not in N or P car will lurch backwards or forwards. Handbrake on as extra safety !!

You have no fan blower operation at all? As well as not getting any hot air coming through? What about some heat at least from natural air flow when driving at highway speeds? If you have no fan blowing at all chase this problem first. I had rainwater get in through rust holes below windscreen, that made its way via air cooling elbow duct aimed at fan motor brushes , corroding things up Ended up deleting the fan air cooling of the brushes tube just in case more water got in. Replaced fan motor worked forever after Those buttons on dash binnacle you press to change air flow blow direction - each one at the back does the vacuum valving switching and are well designed and made, I have never had a problem

That cyclic clicking also sounds like the power window circuits that will click and try to cut out if the window up down buttons are held down on beyond task completed. Dave mentions thermal load, I don't know if power windows use thermal load or what Were you using power window just before smoke started? Maybe passenger side clicking has a stuck switch, but to cause driver side to smoke ??? How is the applicable fuse? A mate called me yesterday with dead windows and in a panic, looking for a switch. Windows you say, not just one? He found a blown fuse. Whether it keeps blowing a fuse I don't know

Actually, what about second hand for starters? I need to speak to a guy anyway. Will see what response I get ....

Rae, good idea - great minds think alike my dealer, when trying for another component, no, actually, same item, just different model, Googled the genuine part number and found a UK parts company listing it When I placed an order with them, I only helped them audit their catalogue - nil stock Once upon a time we had people who could make you a new cable, copying what you have, possibly using outer cable ends A specialist brake and clutch place is a non cyberspace place to try after Google for both UK sources or custom make

One glovebox houses the cruise control vacuum master so no lights there

Is that a switch activated light in the glovebox? Not something I have seen before !

Looks great for its age. Being a fwd probably kept it from being chucked around off road. These things can be lethal off the tarmac in FWD. The alloys help set it apart. If you intend to drive it at night again, some decent LED headlight replacement inserts will light up the road so as not to impact with items sitting between the yellow spots on the road that low beam originals create

No one from Subaru suggest exJapan? Two week wait....

Spfi distributors....optical like the hot wire mpfi of the day, or still possibly like the flapper style pic above?

One day, just one day, I am going to start measuring the working resistances of various sensors to help establish a ball park figure. Then possibly could feed the ecu what it would like to see if problems improve or change

Save on postage if you just put a tiny cracker under local dealers bottom. But yeah, Andy is a wealth of knowledge and has sent parts as far as the UK

Give that number to your local Subaru dealer. There are ways to get power out of an EA82, but it starts with the twin intake port heads and manifolds of the mpfi and it's turbo variant. I have run a carb block with turbo heads etc and used an LPG system off a 4.1 litre Falcon. Was fun to drive, very audible on the intake side. More fun when I removed 36 kg of rear drive components

Yes. Run it sans thermostat please. And it is EA81 we are discussing.....the metal tube coming from rear RHS of inlet manifold to heater hose through firewall ...with engine cold so no scalding, pull hose off tube and run engine to see how good water flow is from pipe towards heater - good pump flow test I have found. Best done with just tap, tank, pond or stream water than heavy metal laden coolant Rubber hoses are easier removed from metal tube with heat gun heat

Yeah, Bennie just wants you to show us how it is done !! I am still waiting to see how others have mounted EJ tailshaft centre bearing in EA81 bodies behind EJ engine and box !!