subieroo

I'm mainly thinking EJ18 at this time, not the common EJ22 everyone seems to do. Thing is I have a brand new exedy EA82 clutch kit, would be nice to drop that in at least for a while if it can handle the torque. I'll send that bloke an email too Do you have a link to a readup on the gearbox guts thing? Sounds like a good option if I can find the right bits Thanks Ash

I have a few concerns with my upcoming EJ swap, time to start thinking about collecting all the various bits... In Australia we never had any ER27 vehicles which is what is required for donor pressure plate I believe. I can find aftermarket plates online in America but they don't ship over here. I know OEM EA82 plates are still available from the dealer but have no idea what to ask for in regards to part no. for ER27. How are people in Australia doing this swap? I've also heard I need the flywheel from the XT6 but can I just have the step on my EA flywheel changed? Thanks in advance

Good ideas, I'll be using them when I do the install for sure. Bracket will probably have to be sheet metal. Absolutely.. struts are first on the suspension Todo list...

Yeah maybe I used the wrong term. I'm not looking for high end stuff, I just wondered if the OEM bracket was moulded to fit the shape of the strut tower enough to create some sort of sealed space for reduced vibration... The doors are already set up that way. The seal around the window glass and the plastic wrap are enough to stop distortion, meanwhile the strut tower contains large ventilated areas. I've made enough speaker enclosures to know at least the basic requirements for what's "acceptable" and what sounds like tinny, shaking garbage. I'll probably end up making my own bracket and surrounding it with foam or something. If you enjoy blown out disgusting stock speakers, good for you. Literally any solution is better than stock if you have any respect for your eardrums.

Geez I just want something less likely to vibrate and annoy the crap out of me, no need to be an rump roast about it. Get off your high horse GD. I don't see how you're being helpful at all

If there's an OEM bracket that accousticly seals the strut tower up perfectly and I can get it from the wreckers for $10 then I'm going to pick that option. My current work schedule is too busy to casually fab up some brackets or I would have just done that like I did for my L wagon. I'd just like to look at options before I do the obvious and make my own.

How would I go about obtaining or making this bracket? What donor vehicles to look for or what to ask the dealer? Cheers

G'day, I have a 1994 Impreza wagon, base model I think (AUDM 1.8L ”sportswagon"), it has 6" speakers in the front as you would expect, but I'm at a loss to how the rears are fitted. The grilles are up on the strut towers, come off easy enough and there's the wiring for the rears and a cavity that would obviously fit a 6ish inch speaker but no mounting hardware. There are two bolt studs toward the back of the car and one toward the front lower in amongst that rubber insulation that don't match up with any speaker config I know of, looks like they mount a fascia plate of some kind. See attached pictures. Google proved useless even when searching for the original Legacy wagon rear setup that I've been told is the same. What do I have to do/find/make to get speakers in these things?? Cheers, Ash

After a year of driving my poor tired old L wagon I have finally found a suitable Soobie for daily driving. 1 previous owner, serviced every 5K, did everything. Not a squeak, leak or clunk to be heard, absolutely mechanically pristine. Non interference ej18 with single range AWD box Not a lot planned for it, just larger tyres and a nudge bar and maybe dual range eventually Imgur gallery

Thanks Benny. I think getting something like that made out of one piece might be a good idea. I'll talk to my welding mates... She's being retired from daily driving tomorrow and is going up on the jack stands for a while, getting a bit of a suspension overhaul Ash

Here is the lift kit instructions Kit was made by Out of Town 4WD. Yes I put the DF and PF blocks back on the correct sides. That's the only marking on them. Attached photo is from the back of the instructions

Dropping the radius rod mounts instead of extending the radius rods creates a huge amount of leverage on the 3 bolts that hold the rod. Under heavy braking or rough off-roading they easily bend and snap. I've had to have welding done as a result, others on this board have too after dropping the mount. It's a recipe for disaster with a 4WD rig, way too much horizontal force acting on 3 wimpy bolts that were never ment to bear the load anyway, the radius rod plate transfered all that directly to the chassis. I'm almost certain the gearbox crossmember can be dropped without moving the radius rod plates, might need some rearranging of bushings but they are not permanently attached to each other I will send more info on the kit when I get home.

Unfortunately only marked "DF" and "PF" for each side. Was the $1500 quoted just in the certificates or does that factor in the cost of your donor parts? $1500 is what I was hoping to get away with on the mechanical aspects, real bummer if it's double the cost for the red tape. Old girl might hang on to the EA a little longer

As far as I know, push button 4WD system only works with the single range box. Dual range requires an additional mechanical arm at the front of the gearbox to move the range selector and is far too clunky to be operated by a solenoid. Someone else please correct me if I'm wrong

Excellent I'll get in touch with him. Blocks are back on the car, but on closer inspection there did appear to be some sort of offset... Not much though. Two studs offset by about 3mm. I found the original documents for the lift kit. Someone paid $680aud in 1995 for it... It specifies that there are a passenger and driver strut block but does not give any instruction on what direction to orientate the block. This kit also drops the radius rod mounts which is really dumb... Also interesting is on the back of the sheets the original owner has written "Friday $100 bend struts". I have no idea what atrocity was committed here but it doesn't sound good! In regards to the EJ swap that's disappointing. What I read on the RMS sheet only said "same family of engines" but I've been back and forth between contradicting documents so many times I don't know what's ok and what isn't... Very tiring trying to keep everything legal.

I have also had a ball joint do a similar noise You could try removing the sway bar links and cable tying the bar up out of the way to test noises associated with it. Top bushings in my links went, and caused a bit of a clunk noise on certain bumps. It also made driving on corrugations a nightmare as it would cause the wheels to hop, ended up deleting the whole thing

Yes that second hose is the one I'm talking about, the crossover bleeder, didn't realise it terminated below the carb... I have had the OEM hose here collect rust in the elbow and burst... twice (used high pressure oil line instead third time). I'll probably cap the bleeder for now until I get fittings, and also delete that other hose you mentioned. I'm sure it will crack/leak at some point. Thanks

Just realised the rear rims look like stock steelies that have been flipped or chopped/welded.... Please tell me I'm wrong

Beautiful, thank you

As the title suggests, the little steel outlets at both ends of this hose have finally rusted up to the point that no amount of hose clamps will save it. There's about half of the original material left on both of them. I'm thinking of drilling them out, tapping new holes and screwing in new brass fittings... Has anyone else had luck doing this? I live in a pretty warm part of the country, how essential is this particular circuit? Assume it's for warming up the carby barrels... Can it be done without at all? Sorry for no pictures at the moment. Thanks guys

Yes it is a front strut. And I thought it was dodgy, just dropping the strut down at the exact same angle... Are there still kits being made by members on this board? I'd love to source a set of blocks with proper offset. I personally think the engineering process in Australia is a joke. Don't need to engineer a complete engine swap if within 20% displacement but cannot possibly run 8% OD wheels without paying some monkey to say "she'll be right"

Not sure how I feel about that one

G'day, here's the struts off my 4x4 wagon, 2" lift was installed in the 90s and was engineered... This spacer doesn't look like it accommodates for camber at all and is probably the cause of my excessive positive camber? Pretty sure this a "redneck lift" block... Thoughts? Also just on eyeballing are those stock EA82 struts? The springs are extremely soft and I'm swapping them for height adjustable factory struts.

Beautiful. I do hope it's wheel bearings too. Came home today, gearbox shifts a but nicer with the top up but noise is still there and definitely louder now on the side I didn't pull and repack the other day. Steering and pedals feel rumbly. Brakes now grab on a full lock turn so it's looking like the case.. I have a whole second set of bearings on hand (same manufacturer though) so I'll chuck them in for now and go about sourcing a higher quality set. Clutch kit has arrived too so at least I can replace all that and rule out those bearings too. The river crossing is a nightmare. Most of the time above the axles especially on the 27's but now I'm running my "legals" (24ish) the axles would be getting a bit of a dip. So many bearings and joints have been claimed by our crossing over the last 20 years

Live in Australia so things don't look cheap, quick look around seems to be $1500 AUD locally... How long do you think this thing has? At 280KM on the odo I think. I messaged her about it and she reckons she's going to try keeping it on the road but I think things are about to go downhill fast. The scary temp spikes started about 2 months ago and while they are rare it is becoming more frequent. Glad it's not mine..