naru2

I think Haynes meant Newton metres not ft lbs. Standard torque for a 6mm bolt(w/a 10mm head) is 12-15 Nm or 9-11 ft lbs.

Diagram of a non ac altermator bracket here https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru__/49286446__6021310/ALTERNATOR-ALTERNATOR-BRACKET--STARTER-NUT/A11-094-A1.html

Should be easy enough to find used. All ea82s , ea81s and probably even ea71s used the same part.

622018000 NLA new

No voltage at the fuse w/the plug in means the high resistance is between this fuse and the battery. FYI,from the charge fuse,the circuit goes thru a diode,the charge lamp,another fuse,the ignition switch and fusible link #2. I would proceed by measuring voltage at the ignition coil + w/the plug in.The same fuse powers the charge lamp. Good volts here confirms the second fuse,the ignition switch and the fusible link are OK. That leaves the lamp the diode and the instrument cluster plugs(try wiggling them) Unfortunately,access to the lamp and diode are not simple.I`d want to measure voltages there. I`d suspect a loose plug first(could explain the low reading on the dash meter-did it go bad at the same time?)

The dash gauges are notoriously inaccurate,but,usually not that bad. Since you already measured full battery voltage at the charge fuse,the dash gauge reading is irrelevant for charging diagnosis. You are measuring both sides of the charge fuse-correct? Full battery voltage at the charge fuse w/key on engine off shows there is an open or high resistance somewhere in the field coil circuit. No voltage on the other side at the same time means the fuse is bad. Measure the voltage at the white/red at the alt.plug.Key on engine off with the plug both in and out. The inaccurate dash gauge is likely due to a poor dash ground.

You have a poor connection(high resistance) at the fuse. This resistance is so much higher than the load resistance(the field coil+charge lamp) that all the voltage is lost at the fuse w/the circuit is loaded. When you remove the plug the circuit is broken,there is no current flow and the high resistance at the fuse is of no significance.You measure full voltage. Voltage at the white/red wire at the alt. plug(or both sides of the fuse) should be 12V key on engine off w/ the plug removed,and about 3.7V plug in IIRC. I say the charge lamp never comes on even though the bulb is good.

Voltage MUST be the same on both sides of the fuse at all times. Only way it can be different is if the fuse is blown or has a poor connection. Fuse and charge light bulb must be OK in order to supply initial field current and begin charging.

725191270,probably NLA

Just noticed that if you have 4wd ,the clutch cable is different The parts book is slightly confusing on this 37026ga080 for build dates up to 8/86 37026ga081 for 9/86 and later

37065ga430 is the throttle 37026ga100 for the clutch cable

Headlight relay has nothing to do w/it. Fan wiring goes thru the firewall twice. Firstly on the way to the ignition switch,then back out from fuse #4.

Fan should have 12 volts via fuse #4 anytime key is on. Probably a blue wire. Check the harness connector.

Fix the FP regulator. You have no hope of maintaining correct mixture w/o it. They are only $50 at rockauto. Turbo cars don`t have idle air control valves like SPFI cars,they have auxilary air valves. You priced the wrong part. What is the code??

Could be the ECU. Mine failed similarly. Look for 12 volts at the relay coil or ECU pin 19 (blue/red) while cranking to test the ECU. Make sure the other side of the relay coil is grounded as well. Also make sure 12V is available at the relay contacts. I ended up taking power from elsewhere to run the relay.

I think your block may be from a MPFI car. MPFIs vent the crankcase there and the sensor looks like the remnants of a knock sensor.