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naru2

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Everything posted by naru2

  1. naru2
  2. naru2
    You need a lock cylinder as well.Wrecker is the only source I know. This may help https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147668-brat-ignition-lock-cylinder-stuck/ Apparently,part #783121210 fits an 82 but is not 100% correct.This includes a lock cylinder and switch.Goggle the part #. Maybe you do not need a switch.No point replacing the wrong part.If there is 12 volts on 2 of the switch OUTPUTS(not counting the white input) in RUN position,the switch is OK.
  3. naru2
    I should have said BLACK/YELLOW instead of black/white.(IGN terminal of switch) White should be OK since the starter works.
  4. naru2
    With tilt,you need to remove the bottom panel that surrounds the fusebox.
  5. naru2
    You will have to remove the steering column cover to access the connector if you do not have tilt steering.
  6. naru2
    Make sure there is power going into the switch on the large white wire and power power coming out on the others,especially black./white. Check the connector for overheating.
  7. naru2
    What car? No relays involved. Check fusible links and ignition switch.
  8. naru2
    Fuse?
  9. naru2
    That disconnected yellow looks like it belongs where the purple is.
  10. naru2
    That disconnected yellow looks like it belongs where the purple is.
  11. naru2
    What picture?
  12. naru2
    Spark plug wire or coil wire?
  13. naru2
    Something like this
  14. naru2
    This is correct for an 84 Brat w/tilt.Probably yours too.You get the switch,cylinder,and the aluminum housing. Punch the part number into goggle for more options. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Subaru-Ignition-Switch-783121210-/173202088170
  15. naru2
    What is missing is a good connection between the 12V output of your switch(you have 12 there right?) and the 8V measurement at the FPCU. Yes you need both.I do not know where to get a lock cylinder other than used. I am not sure if the ea82 switch fits or not-likely does. Ignition pulses from coil negative on the yellow are the trigger.The ignition switch supplies 12V to the FPCU for the fuel pump When the FPCU is triggered,the pump sees 12V
  16. naru2
    The ignition switch does not switch the tach signal to the FPCU. Your test light should pulse while cranking w/it is on the yellow FPCU wire. You need 12V at the FPCU. The switch in your link is an ea82 switch.They only have one mounting hole and may be otherwise different. Rockauto has ea81 switches.Tilt wheel switches w/a short harness are NLA.You need to cut the tabs off a normal one and solder wires on like I did.
  17. naru2
    If the switch is wonky,you need a new one regardless of anything else.I had to replace mine recently. Should be 12 volts on the thick white power feed wire all of the time.IG terminal (black) should be 12 volts in RUN.Blue will be hot in RUN or ACC. If there is less than 12 volts on the white,check voltages on both sides of the fusible links near the battery..
  18. naru2
    Progress! Do you have 12 volts on any of the FPCU wires? If not,the FPCU is not the problem. There are 2 seperate 12 volt feeds to the FPCU.One is live w/the key in ACC position and RUN position.The other only in RUN, One of the blacks is hot in RUN,the other is ground. Might be a bad ignition switch or corroded connector.
  19. naru2
    Here is one https://www.opgi.com/air-fuel-delivery/fuel-pumps-regulators/electric-fuel-pump-controller2/fuel-pump-controller-all-12-volt-ch30173.html Or,if you do not mind eliminating the engine stops/pump stops safety function(I did),just use a normal relay.
  20. naru2
    Yes,Should be very close to battery voltage. My test light lights up at less than 5 volts.You need a meter. If less than 12V,then bad connections or FPCU.Pump should run w/9-10 volts though. If the jumper wire to negative does not work,put a fuse on the battery end and jump power to the pump for a test.
  21. naru2
    Bad ground,if you have 12V while the harness is connected to the pump. Run a jumper to battery negative for a test
  22. naru2
    The coil bracket needs to be well grounded on these.No spark w/o the transistor being grounded. Any codes? Got 12 volts at the coil-key on? Only other connection to the coil is the noise suppression capacitor on coil positive.
  23. naru2
    LH. Change 40 to 30 for the RH
  24. naru2
    They are not all the same. Wagons and 3Drs use 3/4",everything else 11/16" The smaller ones won`t work properly. 25177ga360 NLA at the dealer,but,I see some at rockauto.
  25. naru2
    The one in the squarish cage on the RH side is the engine fan. You can`t judge switch quality by their ebay price. I`d get the $8 one-same part. https://www.ebay.com/itm/BECK-ARNLEY-201-1381-Engine-Cooling-Fan-Switch-Subaru-Brat-DL-1980-1987-TS171/153812308455?fits=Year%3A1984|Make%3ASubaru&epid=76823248&hash=item23cfed91e7:g:aCkAAOSwf0dclOGy
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