naru2

Either should work as they both have self contained ignition modules,but,the Hitachi is slightly more robust.

Cheaper https://parts.fortwaynesubaru.com/oem-parts/subaru-engine-valve-cover-grommet-812764110?c=az0x

812764110 Still available from the dealer.About $1.70. I just added some regular o rings instead.Seems to be working so far. Here are the correct ones on ebay.There are others. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Set-of-4-Engine-Valve-Cover-Bolt-O-Ring-Nippon-Reinz-for-Subaru-Brat-DL/360694532437?epid=1937361740&hash=item53fb11c955:g:2EoAAOxyaRZR3rkz

That is your ignition module.Subaru also calls it a control unit. Wreckers are the only source I know. 80 Brats and all 79 4wds have this part. Might be worth opening it up and resoldering. Pretty sure you could use a later style disty w/an internal module if you are unable to locate this part.

All 82 Brats use the same Hitachi distributor regardless of which carb they had.

This one? 807607052

Try running it w/the MAF unplugged.

Get a meter.They are like $10. You can`t work on cars w/o one. You don`t have a short.You have the opposite-a high resistance connection.Heat is generated there. " continuity across the ignition wire." What does that mean? 0 ohms?,1 ohm?,10 ohms? A poor connection at the connector is the source of your overheated wire.If you put a voltmeter across it,there will be a voltage drop under load. When you relpace the switch,the connection is still bad I recently replaced my ignition switch because of high contact resistance.I eliminated the connector at the same time by soldering the wires. ELIMINATE the CONNECTOR The ignition switch and all wiring needs to have very low resistance because both the solenoid and ignition coil have load resistances on the order of 1 ohm. An additional 1 ohm across the switch and connections means they see only 6 volts under load-not good. I measured up to 6 ohms across the ignition terminal of the switch depending on how you wiggled it. Ran quite well except for a cold misfire(surprising),but it is way better after switch replacement-silky smooth now. I had to make an ea81 tilt switch from a normal one by cutting off the tabs and soldering wires on ,but,that is another story. One wire IS hot all the time. If there is still nothing on the solenoid after repair,check the neutral safety or clutch switches.

A lot simpler just to get the correct part. Plenty not too far away. I managed to destroy one too.

Results sorted by PRICE (Click on heading to re-sort) Click back to modify your previous choice. Most prices do not include extended warranties or shipping. 1990 Subaru Loyale Coil/Igniter Click Here to see All Interchange Choices Click Here to see Non-Interchange Choices Year Part Model Description Part Grade Stock# US Price Dealer Info 1994 Ignition Coil Subaru Loyale A K05748 $35 Gerry's Foreign Auto Parts USA-WA(Kittitas) Request_Quote 1-800-848-5578 Request_Insurance_Quote 1992 Ignition Coil Subaru Loyale 1.8L,CK-OK,4/18,ON FENDER A 052E $35 Whiteys Wrecking USA-WA(Spokane) Request_Quote 1-800-735-2376 Request_Insurance_Quote 1991 Ignition Coil Subaru Loyale 1.8,5SPD N10258 $25 All West Coast Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Shelton) Request_Quote 1-800-720-4599 Request_Insurance_Quote 1991 Ignition Coil Subaru Loyale 1.8,5SP N8843 $25 All West Coast Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Shelton) Request_Quote 1-800-720-4599 Request_Insurance_Quote 1988 Ignition Coil Subaru XT A 6333 $25 97 Auto Wrecking Shull's Towing USA-WA(Brewster) E-mail 1-800-822-5761 1992 Ignition Coil Subaru Loyale ON SHELF GOOD UNIT A 230903 $25 Black Diamond Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Black-Diamond) Request_Quote 1-877-809-8809 Request_Insurance_Quote 1993 Ignition Coil Subaru Loyale 150348 $Call Nisqually Auto Wrecking USA-WA(Lacey) Request_Quote 360-456-6222 Request_Insurance_Quote Year Part Model Description Part Grade Stock# US Price Dealer Info

No caps that I have ever seen.

Not quite,but,it is nearby.

The 83 4wd one is the one to look at. .https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Subaru-ff-1-1300-1400-1600-1800-Brat-1970-1984-Repair-Guide/Vacuum-Diagrams/Vacuum-Diagrams/_/P-0900c15280065a54

Sounds like dirt in the primary side emulsion tube. The holes are very small.

The circuit breaker is kicking out because of a too high current draw. Non-stock bulbs?

Yes,Any ea82 is late,any ea81 is early. Should use the same type left/right as they have different offsets IIRC.

I think you have your labels reversed. The top one is a late style w/more clearance for ea82 calipers.I have a set of both. Late wheels fit early cars,but,early wheels don`t clear ea82 calipers. I do not know what size spacer you need. Didn`t someone grind calipers for early wheel clearance on a late car?

Probably will.Compare it to your carter weber manifold.I think the 1600s are narrower(shorter). If they are the same length,then the hitachi is for an ea81 like yours.

It is a Hitachi,but,other details are hard to pin down w/o the carb #.

Wrong firing order perhaps?

Adjust idle speed w/the large vertical brass screw on the throttle body

It is the single tab one.

MPFI,but,what year? turbo? Adjust idle speed w/the large vertical brass screw on the throttle body

No,that is a carter-weber intake and what appears to be a stock carb.

Bad intake gaskets will not give bubbles in the radiator-no pressure.