naru2

No,Do a better spark check. Does a test light on coil negative pulsate while cranking? If not,no spark.

http://www.car-part.com/ Try again.You must be doing something wrong Enter 1987,subaru other,turbo and sort by price. Still lots there

You did not look hard enough for a turbo.Forget rebuilding. I found 20+ in less than a minute at http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi $75-$500 Forget bypassing too-it will run,but poorly.

Pretty sure this is the correct one https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B00NWZZBS6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=m16+1%2F8npt+adapter&qid=1575914682&sr=8-1

You need something like this in a smaller size https://www.amazon.com/GlowShift-Female-Sensor-Adapter-Reducer/dp/B07D7FL72N

Chances are the replacement alternator has a shorted field winding. If you have the 3 volts w/the old alternator hooked up electricly,then the new alt.is the problem.

I would not be in a hurry to remove the carb for the problem you describe. Idle speed is too high.Try lowering it. Spec for manual trans is 700 +-100 so 600 would be OK.Should help a lot. If you are unable to go that low,the throttle body might be loose. I made my own gaskets. Make sure the EGR valve works-heads might be getting too hot w/o it. Try a tank or 2 of premium fuel. If all else fails,try a combustion chamber cleaner to remove carbon deposits. Here is an ea81T https://instagetter.net/photos/subarubrat-subaru-brat-ea81t1980scar-lessth-p-BxbbTBdFE3e

Maybe you don`t need a kit. Pretty common for the throttle body to come loose from the float bowl and mess up the idle. Hard to tell w/o removing the carb. You might find this worth reading https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/170101-82-subaru-brat-ea-81-webercarter-rebuild-kits/ I have an 84 turbo wagon,but,I used to have an 82 GL wagon w/the carter weber.I liked it

There are other sources for that over priced kit.https://www.carbkits.com/catalog/details/4355 You can get a whole carb here for not much more http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/fuel---emissions-16775/carburetors---parts-16801/carburetor-12234/840def96ca83/1982/subaru/brat

Check voltage at the ignition switch plug if you have no power on either side of the ignition fuse.(the plugs burn and fail sometimes) Fusible link should be OK since it cranks,but,I would check them anyway. There will be no voltage across the fuse.Put one lead on battery negative,the other to either side of the fuse to check.

Usually,this means the distributor bushings are worn out. Try wiggling the disty shaft.Anything more than barely perceptable movement is too much. Eventually,the reluctor will hit the stator in a Hitachi distributor.

A wise man once told me "The first thing to check on a troubled fuel injected engine is fuel pressure." I found it to be sage advice.(especially on a non-runner) You want 36psi engine off,26-29@idle,and 42psi w/7lbs boost on the regulator "vacuum line" SPFI pumps can`t really cut it. Your pump needs to be capable of at least 95 litres/hour @43 psi. The regulator is on the fuel rail,not the pump.No worries. The red plugs are "check connectors" for diagnostics.You can monitor all the sensors and more from these.Very handy.

According to my info,that part # only applies to 1981 non-brat 4wds. Hatch,Sedan,or wagon are the same part if 4wd.

81 4wds (except brats)have a unique part # according to my info (7421 41220) Not sure if anything else fits.

Clean the IAC if you are sure the CTS and all connections are good.

Spec is 20-24 psi at idle,so if you have that all the time,the pump and regulator are OK. Must be something else.

Fuel pump.

Here is the complete 1983 FSM for free. https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1269657/Subaru-1600.html

https://www.autozone.com/repairguides/Subaru-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1985-1996-Repair-Guide/CARBURETED-FUEL-SYSTEM/Carburetor/_/P-0900c15280067039 Pay attention to the vacuum break adjustment and the fast idle cam.

I would start by checking fuel pressure after the power loss and stalling begins.

inspect the external linkage for slop. Pretty common for the bushings to go bad. Been a few years,but IIRC,the simple fix was to snug the loose parts together w/a bolt

429487000 is OEM.It is NLA. It is a secret # not even in the Subaru parts book except for the index. There are used ones at the wreckers if you look hard enough. I am almost certain that the 2 wire ea82 sensor (22060AA000)used in 85/6 that steptoe mentions is identical except for the addition of a plastic barrel around the pins that allows fitting a better connector. 429487000 is also white plastic 2 pin,FWIW. You could use 22060AA000 by changing connectors or modifying the barrel portion of the sensor. Here is a cheap $10 aftermarket one https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Knock-Detonation-Sensor-AS10088-For-Subaru-GL-10-XT-GL-RX-1995/380876594751?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Knock-Detonation-Sensor-AS10088-For-Subaru-GL-10-XT-GL-RX-1995/380876594751?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

Base timing too far off. Engine does not need to run to check timing. Have someone crank the engine w/the connector connected while you check,

Section 2-8 of the 89 FSM "fuel system'