naru2

Classic symptoms of fuel starvation. The pump is weak or the filters/strainer are plugged. They are unable to meet the increased fuel demand of uphill driving. Fuel pressure drops as you go uphill. For the hard starting,don`t forget to adjust the choke pull off

FSM spec is 95 litres/hour while regulated at 43.4 psi.. Deadheaded discharge pressure 61-71 psi. The injectors want 43.4 psi at full boost.

Its flooding because the float valve leaks slightly. Check the fuel level in the sight glass.It will be near the middle where it should be initially,but will rise after sitting.

The stock pump is 1.35-2.06 psi.Certainly not more than the Weber likes. You will be hard pressed to get higher mileage w/an average drive <2 miles. New cap and rotor is almost always good for at least a slight improvement. If it does not stall,overfilling is quite unlikely.You can add a fuel return by swapping the Y fitting from the inlet of the old carb.

All depends on what you are paying for modules.Prices have been highly variable thru the years. Currently,non turbo modules are $10 at Rockauto but turbo ones can be north of $200. I bought a $50 used turbo dizzy for the module and diaphragm.. http://used-auto-parts.net/

Some vintage coils ground one end of the secondary winding to the case.These ones need to be grounded thru the bracket etc. I recall a hot rod V8 that would inexplicably increase idle RPM when you leaned over the motor and touched the block. Turned out that touching the body and motor at the same time improved coil grounding enough to increase idle speed. On our old Subes,only the optical distributor models need grounding thru the coil bracket.( for the primary winding transistor.) Grounding the coil case on the others merely provides a little bit of extra RF noise suppression. The coil primary grounds thru the ignition module (or coil bracket transistor if so equipped, Since the windings are connected(an autotransformer) the high voltage "grounds" to the other end of the secondary winding thru the block,battery, and coil positive whether optical type or not.

I would not replace module and coil based on that info. Since fuel was OK,ignition primary pulses were too and so were the coil and module. I would replace the cap and rotor and await any furthur unlikely developments. A little bit of unseen condensation under the cap is enough to kill the spark. It is possible to replace the module,but,it is often cheaper to replace the whole dizzy.

The FPCU will not work w/o ignition pulses. If a test light on coil negative does not pulse when cranking,you are not going to get fuel. Fuse #5 supplies some FPCU power thru the ACC position of the ignition switch. Run position supplies other power.You should have power on 2 wires w/the key on. .Fuse #13 for the coil.

1983 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru rad, Hitachi- A 11274 $35 Chase Auto Parts USA-IA(Waterloo) Request_Quote 1-800-728-2568 Request_Insurance_Quote 1985 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru 2HB,1.8,NAC.CHK-ID A 4A0236 $25 A-Burlington Used Auto Parts USA-MA(Shirley) Request_Quote 1-800-228-5544 Request_Insurance_Quote 1983 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru Brat 1.8,NAC,RAD.CHK-TYPE A AN1730 $25 A-Burlington Used Auto Parts USA-MA(Shirley) Request_Quote 1-800-228-5544 Request_Insurance_Quote 1981 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru A Z74 $Call World Auto Parts USA-CA(Glendale) Request_Quote 818-240-1460/888-782-8781 Request_Insurance_Quote 1985 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru A NN7 $Call World Auto Parts USA-CA(Glendale) Request_Quote 818-240-1460/888-782-8781 Request_Insurance_Quote 1982 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru LH LH,1.8L,4SPD,PTC,CK TYPE A 203648 $Call Charlie's Used Auto Parts USA-TN(Dayton) Request_Quote 423-775-3046 / 800-933-7958 Request_Insurance_Quote 1981 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru MOTOR AND BLADES 963404 $Call Schneider's Auto Wrecking Can-ON(Rostock) Request_Quote 1-800-565-4606 Request_Insurance_Quote 1986 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru Brat 2DR,RED,7-86,1.8,FLR-MT 15966 $Call Nuwer Auto Parts USA-NY(Holland) Request_Quote 1-716-537-2800 Request_Insurance_Quote 1982 Cooling Fan Assembly (Rad and Con mtd.) Subaru CK MFR, SOLD AS ASSEMBLY, SILVER-BLUE 821251 $Call Roger's Auto Sales & Used Part USA-VA(New-Market) Request_Quote 540-740-8733 / 800-377-8302 Request_Insurance_Quote

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Same thing if it is ea81.

Why decide based on hope?Fitment info is readily available.This fan motor is not for a brat. Make Body & Trim Engine & Transmission 1987 Subaru DL Base 1.8L H4 - Gas 1986 Subaru DL Base 1.8L H4 - Gas 1985 Subaru DL Base 1.8L H4 - Gas 1987 Subaru GL Base, Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1986 Subaru GL Base, Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1985 Subaru GL Base, Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1987 Subaru GL-10 Base, Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1986 Subaru GL-10 Base, Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1985 Subaru GL-10 Base, Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1987 Subaru RX Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1986 Subaru RX Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1985 Subaru RX Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas 1986 Subaru XT DL, GL, GL-10 Turbo 1.8L H4 - Gas Get one that fits https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Brat-Brumby-284-MV-1978-1994-EA81-Engine-Cooling-Fan-Housing/233234834318?hash=item364de1238e:g:ueoAAOSwSeVaKo7- I`m sure there are more closer to home.

Low freon pressure.

Not quite. My 84 turbo has no AC and no direct drive fan. Maybe you meant WITH AC?

721070130 is found on 80-81 4wd wagons, 82 4wd wagons and brats,83/4 non turbo 4wd wagons/brats and presumably newer brats. Other 4wd models have different part numbers for some reason(lighter gauge metal?) Air chisel for the win.

Not really. Both alts. have bad brushes or an open field coil. The light grounds thru the brushes and field coil so both need to be good for the light to work. Full battery voltage at both pins w/engine stopped shows there is no circuit thru the field coil to ground. Pin from the lamp should be about 3.7 volts,IIRC Put a jumper cable between the alt case and battery negative as another test for a poor ground.

The turbo gauge simply replaces the oil pressure gauge in a GL dash.Everything else is the same. The sensor is a semiconducter strain gauge w/a variable voltage output.Hitachi PS 14-01. Mine outputed slightly low voltages last time I tested it resulting in slightly low gauge readings. Seems back to normal now,but,I have not retested. The meter being pegged at the top seems more like a gauge than sensor issue in this case,but,maybe not. The sensor should output between 2.162 to 2.213 volts at atmospheric pressure when powered by 13.5 volts @ 77 degrees F. The gauge should read zero w/this voltage applied. I used a bicycle pump and a vacuum pump to test the system at other pressures.

Mine is on the firewall beside the RH hinge, It says "boost sensor" on it.

Its on the firewall.

The strainer is not shown in the diagram because it was never a replaceable part on EA81s. If the strainer plugged while your car was still on warranty,the dealer gave you a new tank. Only car I can think of that the strainer is not relatively easy to replace.A design flaw for sure. I guess they did not expect these cars to last so long. Pump manufacturers usually specify mandatory filter and strainer changes along w/tank washing for warranty coverage I would pull the drain plug and see what comes off the bottom of the tank. Diagnosis of a plugged strainer is a little difficult because of its possibly intermittent nature. Low fuel pressure combined w/a new pump/filter w/good voltage is a BIG clue. Fairly quick reset of fuel pressure after stopping the engine is an even bigger clue. An improvement in pressure and flow rate when allowing the pump to feed from a gas can is pretty definitive too. Your pump pressure should always be 1.35-2,06 psi and it should flow 28 litres/hour I think a lot of the EA81s suffer partially clogged strainers.My own 84 turbo will not meet the flow rate requirement even w/a new pump. You might be able to puncture the strainer w/a stiff wire,not sure.A radiator shop will be able to help. I`ve seen EA81s w/filters added between the tank and the pump presumably for similar reasons.

Plenty at the wreckers. $100 here Shenandoah Auto Parts, Inc. USA-VA(Roanoke) Request_Quote 800-777-7908/540-343-7908 Cheaper further afield.Check here http://used-auto-parts.net/cgi-bin/search.cgi

Look at the sight glass first. Easier,cheaper,more likely given this " Shutting the car off then back on usually resets it" Bad plugs would be more consistent.An overheated coil is possible,but,does not explain the "reset". That said,looking at the plugs is always a good idea.

Here is some hard data for you http://www.j-mst.org/On_line/admin/files/07-M1-C-09-109_37-41-42백_.pdf Fuel pumps trying to push thru plugged filters wear out quickly for the same reason. I beg to differ,as batteries age they have less reserve capacity and a cold start will discharge them more deeply requiring higher charging current.

Because the field current thru the brushes is higher when charging harder. I`ve heard of new alternators(GM?) failing in short order after trying to charge quite dead(but otherwise good) batteries.Not sure if they were brush failures. They want you to charge the battery before swapping alternators.

The harder it charges,the quicker the brushes wear.