naru2

OK,but,what is the pressure on the 2nd and 3rd pumps? Fuel flows forward thru the filter,not backwards.Blowing backwards proves nothing Your not even changing fuel filters??? Shame on you. I suppose there is not much point asking if you changed strainers.You NEED to. I once repaired a car that was on its 4th $400 fuel pump in a short time by relpacing the $8 strainer the previous mechanic did not. The old one appeared perfect and was absolutely free to blow thru. You need to measure voltages at pump positive and negative.A test light does not cut it. Dirt in the tank will kill pumps. Last Legacy I saw w/pump problems had water in the tank.

It is not such a strange problem.I`ve dealt w/similar cases several times. The strainer in the tank becomes plugged after a bit of driving. After stopping,the dirt drops off and the car runs better for a while. You can prove to yourself it is a fuel supply issue by observing the fuel level sight glass on the carb. Fuel will likely be in the middle where it is supposed to be after starting (but before driving) in the morning. Observe it again after the sputter.Fuel will be much too low. Driving w/a fuel pressure gauge attached is an even easier method. Problem could be the pump or strainer.Probably the strainer.from your "reset" description. Worth checking voltage and grounding of the pump though.

For future reference. I think the year listings of the rebuilders are incorrect. I believe 82s and 83s are the same,but,.84s are different. In 84 they added an altitude compensator that opens up the air bleeds when driving in high thin air. This necessitated the addition of 2 vacuum lines to the spacer under the duty(pulse) solenoid.. 84s have a spacer w/2 vacuum lines.82/3s have no vacuum lines. I suspect that the spacer is the only difference between the 2 versions and could be swapped as needed. Or,plug the lines and an 84 carter weber becomes an 82 Or,leave the altitude compensator disconnected when running an 82 carb on an 84 car. Confusing point here is that the FSMs call both versions TYF 7419S.I suspect this is incorrect.I have other info that suggests 84s are TYF 7629 or 7569.

Cheers brother! I wonder how many otherwise good carbs have been discarded for similar reasons.

I think the vacuum lines from the altitude compensator attach to the spacer under the duty solenoid,if so equipped.

Check the fuel inlet filter under the banjo bolt. Check that the throttle body is tight.There is a screw underneath that comes loose.

Good news that it was running so recently. It does appear that the carb may be empty because of a stuck float. First thing to try is tapping the float bowl with a soft hammer type device preferably with the fuel pump running. That almost always works.It might stick again though. You may have to take the top off to see what is going on if that does not work.Nothing to lose. You don`t have to have a new gasket from a carb kit.I didn`t have one. As long as the old gasket does not break at a strategic location,it is reusable. Worst case,you would need to make a gasket w/some punches and a xacto knife. The carter weber gasket looks simple enough,I`ve made more intricate ones. Base gaskets are a piece of cake.

The float might be stuck. Does fuel make it INTO the carb?Does the accelerator pump squirt?

For $3,I would get the book too.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n

You should be good w/the complete number.I would make some phone calls to be sure. I know there were 2 versions w/minor differences.I thought 82/3 were the same and 84s differed. The pulse solenoid is also known as the duty solenoid. All of the solenoids are ID`d in #s 1&2 here https://www.mastertechmag.com/pdf/1988/10oct/198810IS_CarterWeber1Barrel.pdf

If your after the simplest, cheapest,fastest "get on with life" solution a complete carter/weber beats a weber swap. I don`t think you will need concours condition for originality to add value in the future.

Are you sure the float isn`t just stuck? It should at least sputter a bit with fuel from the accelerator pump even if the idle circuit is plugged.

Your Brat is nice enough to spend some effort keeping it stock.You will be glad you did in the future. Every joker has a Weber.with one of those cheesy little airfilters and no carb heat. Carter/Weber kits are readily available,if a little pricey.https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-84-CARB-KIT-CARTER-TYF-MODEL-2-BARREL-CARBURETOR-VW-RABBIT-SUBARU-1800/261466892303?hash=item3ce0a4280f:g:zYMAAOSwvg9XYZ0q Complete rebuilt carbs are about $300 from several sources. http://www.chicagocarburetor.com/carburetors-remanufactured.php?c=124 http://www.nationalcarburetors.com/lookup.aspx?partnum=sub001 The Carter/Webers run fine.I preferred mine over the Hitachi. They have some advantage over the Hitachi w/its vacuum secondary. They allow you to open the throttle completely at low engine speed(like a weber DGV) giving slightly better low to mid range response. Only trouble I recall was the throttle body coming loose from the float bowl. Here is a decent rebuild tutorial https://performancetechnician.com/1988/10/carburetor-clinic-carter-weber-one-barrel/ OEM version https://www.ebay.com/itm/1982-CARTER-WEBER-OEM-ORIGINAL-CARBURETOR-SERVICE-MANUAL-FOR-MODEL-TYF/142680349224?hash=item2138695a28:g:ky4AAOSwM91aeH0n Good luck.

Probably worn distributor bushings.Pretty common. See if you can wiggle the shaft.Any more than barely perceptible movement is too much. Another tach won`t read right either as the ignition primary signal is messed up.

I`m confused. Is the 5000 rpm with only the TPS change(s)? or TPS and ECU? or TPS and either ECU? Adjusting the TPS is simple.Feeler gauges are like $3 or you can sometimes use drill bits instead. It is a one man job.Move the throttle by hand. You take resistance measurements w/the TPS unplugged. My info says: 1 Measure resistance between the black and gray wires w/a .35 mm(.014") feeler gauge between the throttle stop and the lever.Should be 5000 ohms or less. 2 Change feeler gauge to .75mm.Resistance should now be infinite. 3 Remove feeler gauge.Resistace between the black/white wire and the black should be 3000-7000. 4 Measure resistance between green/black and black.Throttle closed should be 4200-15,000.Fully open 100-11,000 5 Check for a smooth variation as the throttle moves. I do not see any way the TPS could command the IACV open.It could change the fuel though. It would be worth knowing if you still get 5000 rpm w/the IACV unplugged.(better yet-hose blocked pigtail connected) I suspect the new TPS stuff added fuel to a preexisting vacuum leak thus spiking the rpm. Is there 5 volts at the CTS pigtail w/the new ECU?

Not sure if they fit,but,these stock type ones are pretty nice for $13 https://www.ebay.com/itm/PEUGEOT-4-x-Plastic-Wheel-Centre-Cap-Hubs-with-Silicone-Logo-60mm-55mm-NEW/192864817016?hash=item2ce7a38f78:g:OVYAAOSwbiFZTQ4D&vxp=mtr Plenty of other choices on ebay.

Find more pulleys on carpart.com by looking up other ea71 engine parts. Not many wreckers are going to list the pulley separately. I see more than a dozen doner engines when searching for a cylinder head. Other searchs will locate others. Same place might have a clutch boot-nobody will list that.

cardictionary says it better than me "Four-stroke piston engines exhibit non-uniform rotation. The separate strokes (suction, compression, power, exhaust) combined with the firing order of the individual cylinders dictate that the crankshaft is continuously accelerated and decelerated. Torsional vibration dampers, or rotation vibration dampers , as they are also known, must damp these rotational irregularities and vibrations of the crankshaft so that they are not passed on to the belt drive system. Vibration and oscillation noise is damped and not transmitted to the vehicle structure, where it would be perceived by the driver and passengers as inconvenient and unpleasant. At the same time, the rotation vibration damper reduces wear of the V-ribbed belt and extends the service life of the units and belt drive components it is responsible for driving."

I neither have nor know the part number for the boot. Even if you found a NOS one it would be old and cracked by now.

I recall a map that showed Subarus were concentrated along the west coast and in mountainous areas. Lots in colorado. California probably had the most Brats.

Sounds iffy.I`d get a used one. Plenty here http://www.car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Make some calls or try a classified ad on this site. You are lucky in that yours is a common ea71 pulley. Any ea71 from 1976-79 or an 80 manual trans are suitable doners. You are looking for 313184300

READ THE CODE There is no good reason for a rough hot idle w/the IACV inoperative.I would try to isolate and eliminate IACV symptoms by pinching a hose closed and leaving it electricly connected. Voltage at the CTS pigtail is not dependent on temperature when the sensor is disconnected. Sounds to me like the IACV sticks once hot.I would try cooling it with one of those aerosol sprays while it is doing the hot fast idle thing.

Counterclockwise to open the passage bypassing the throttle and raise the rpm. If it is unresponsive,there is another problem.

Find an XT6 here http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi Search for a different part.I used a camshaft. Phone one of the wreckers and have them cut off the pigtail. Those pins will be available somewhere.I bought subaru ECU pins from a different dealer-Honda maybe? Or ask these guys https://www.iwireservices.com/3-pin-plugs You don`t need to run the car to troubleshoot the 3.2 volts.Just have the key on. You should read the codes.Easy and possibly informative. Check the 3.2 at the cts plug while both the TPS and MAF are unplugged. It is possible that a fault there could load the 5 volt supply enough to drop the voltage.I would expect a trouble code. I would get a backup ECU while they are still around.

+1 Sounds like the primary barrel only. Make sure the fuel level is in the middle of the sight glass and the accl. pump squirts strong too. The air bleed system/hoses matter too.There is a calibrated orfice in the line. Idle would be bad w/a vacuum leak.You would be lucky to find one w/a vacuum pump, Doesn`t the automatic choke work?