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naru2

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Everything posted by naru2

  1. naru2
    Quite likely there is a vacuum leak as well as an IACV related issue.Would explain the rough idle and rpm variation. Corroded connections won`t affect the 3.2 volt reading w/the CTS unplugged as there is no current flowing. AFAIK,the only fault that could make the voltage too low here is a failed voltage regulator in the ECU. Pretty sure the same voltage regulator also supplies 5 volts to the TPS.You might want to check voltages there. I did not mean to suggest you had a pinched hose,I meant you could disable the IACV by pinching a hose instaed of unplugging it and possibly sending the ECU into a limp mode.
  2. naru2
    Trouble code to be expected upon unplugging the IACV. Rough warm idle at the same rpm is a little unexpected. The high idle appears to be due to the IACV in some way and not a vacuum leak.Probably the bad pigtail. You might try again by leaving the IACV plugged in and disabling it by pinching one of the hoses closed. That 3.2V is still troubling.Does it remain constant cold/hot? I would use an intake cleaner on the IACV. The CTS does not control the fan.
  3. naru2
    I would not worry about CTS branding.Subaru does not manufacture them. Are you sure it is open? An open one should have triggered a trouble code and dash light. They can be up to around 20,000 ohms,If you do not have your meter on the right scale,they can look open. 3.2 volts at the plug w/the CTS unplugged sounds flakey. Should be more like 5.0. I would be suspicous of the ECU if the 3.2 volts was measured with the CTS disconnected and a new CTS has no effect. Disprove vacuum leaks by unplugging the IACV for a hot start,If the idle lowers now,it is not a vacuum leak.
  4. naru2
    That was my first thought. Wasn`t sure if it was possible.
  5. naru2
    Still worth replacing.Under $2. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/SPRING-RELIEF-VALVE-ENGINE/49227449/15020AA000.html This thread may help
  6. naru2
    Air out the filler tube is combustion gases blowing by the rings. If the cam was oiling OK before disassembly,you must have disturbed something.
  7. naru2
  8. naru2
    Only a vent line to the cannister. No vacuum.
  9. naru2
    Proceed by forgetting about everything else until the fuel leak is fixed. There are no vacuum lines back there to hiss. The hiss will be a high pressure fuel spray. YIKES!! You need to get under there and have a look ASAP. If your idle is still too high,there is another vacuum leak. Try adjusting idle speed via the large brass idle speed screw on the throttle body. Service info you seek is in the 2nd ea82 manual here http://jdfinley.com/file-downloads/subaru-manuals/
  10. naru2
    Check codes next or sooner. Are you sure the CTS was open?That would have set a code. Bad MAF or electrical connections won`t give 1500 rpm w/the IAC unplugged. Too much air is almost the only reason Vacuum/unmetered air leaks most likely,IAC sticks open,throttle doesn`t close,misadjusted idle speed screw .......etc Almost certainly a vacuum or unmetered air leak.Fits your sputteriing symptoms Check the large hose and all connections between the MAF and throttle body for cracks and tightness Compression test wold not hurt.
  11. naru2
    Definitely not the fuel pump.Don`t waste your time w/that. More likely flooded by too much fuel. Fortunately,you don`t need to guess.Your car has the great diagnostic advantage of a sight glass on the carb. Inspect the fuel level right after a stall It should be in the middle.I suspect yours may be too high. Plenty of other possibilities like vacuum leaks(#1),stuck EGR,carb adjustments ,dirty carb...............etc
  12. naru2
    This diagram should help https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/parts-list/1992-subaru-loyale/heater-blower.html?Diagram=722_A1 Check that the actuator holds vacuum. Check the vacuum supply. Make sure the flap is free to move. It would be easier to answer your questions if you put the year/model of your car in your post. Good luck. https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/45707-loyale-heater-defroster-repair/
  13. naru2
    There is high resistance in the circuit.Probably at the plug. Contrary to what you might think,this can make the current thru the bulb higher than normal. This happens because the resistance of the bulb itself changes w/temperature. Initially,the bulb is cold/low resistance but quickly heats to a higher resistance. When there is unwanted resistance in the wiring,the bulb heats less(more slowly too)and has less than normal R. The overall effect is less circuit resistance and too much current thru the bulb. I would change the plug.
  14. naru2
    I don`t see how a lack of anti wear additives makes modern 20w50 any less usable than modern 10w30 with the same lack of additives.
  15. naru2
    I have heard nothing that invalidates the ea-81 owners manual.
  16. naru2
    It is clear who the idiot is here. WRXs are not ea-81s.We are talking ea81s. Why quote the owners manual for the WRONG CAR and dispute/ignore the owners manual for the CORRECT car? The question is not whether 10W30 is suitable,but,rather whether 20W50 is completely unsuitable like you said. I have heard nothing that invalidates the ea-81 owners manual.
  17. naru2
    A "Vehicle Design Engineer " should not have any trouble explaining why his opinion trumps Subarus I have not heard anything yet. Face it,you blurted out something dumb ("20w50 is WAY too thick, unless you live in Death Valley during the summer only")and subsequently tried to defend it.
  18. naru2
    Here is a SPFI pump https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carter-P72080-Electric-Fuel-Pump-For-1988-1991-Subaru-XT-1992-Loyale/183203414413?fits=Model%3ALoyale&epid=168813301&hash=item2aa7c6418d:g:ACMAAOSw5UVa6eqh:rk:6:pf:0 Search "loyale pump" for more choices.
  19. naru2
    I think an opinion from the Subaru engineers is worth a lot more than yours. Funny,you are usually so quick to pull quotes from the factory manuals.
  20. naru2
    Viscosity is viscosity.Nothing has changed for over 100 years. What do upgraded oils have to do with viscosity recomendations for a vintage engine? Point being, 20w50 is completely suitable for operation between 30-90 degrees and NOT "WAY too thick, unless you live in Death Valley during the summer only" like you asserted.
  21. naru2
    Not according to the owners manuals. Subaru reccomends 20w50 for outside temperatures from 30 to 90 degrees F 20w50 is not thick enough for Death valley. Subaru wants you to use straight 40 weight above 90 degrees 10w30 is only good below 90 degrees.
  22. naru2
    Check float buoyancy(no holes/fuel absorption) and alignment(no rubbing) Inspect and clean the needle and seat. Check the float drop while you are there. Some floats need periodic adjustment.IME.
  23. naru2
    You need to adjust he float.
  24. naru2
    Any trouble codes? I would check fuel pressure.and for unmetered air/vacuum leaks. Look for cracks in the large hose between the MAF and the throttle body.
  25. naru2
    It will run,but,it won`t be OK. A 38 DGAS is too large for the tiny airflow of a Justy. A smaller DGV series Weber w/a progressive throttle linkage would be a better choice.
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