Bababou

Makes sense that it would be front diff rather than center diff for front wheel drive. The one in the auto 3 speed transmission, that diff. Thanks for the suggestion to clean the gunk out.

I have not seen some one use FWD to mean four wheel drive only Front wheel drive which is the case for my car. 4x4 or four wheel drive or in the case of Subaru AWD for all wheel drive. What details did I forget? The parts store has it listed to take 70 or 80 or 90 weight gear oil and Dex 3 for the trans.

This is a FWD auto car I had failed to check the trans fluid levels until now the auto fluid looks ok but will be getting changed since I have no Idea how old it is. The center diff has me worried though, pull the dip stick and the bottom has sludge on it and then oddly clean fluid on the dip stick. I haven't looked it up yet but I assume it takes 75-90 gear oil like my other Subaru diffs have called for but what ever is in the car does not smell like gear oil. I'm going to grab what ever it needs on my way home in the morning to change it but is there a flush I should do to clear out the gunk that likely wont drain on its own?

Good to know they are just loud. It runs fine gets up to 75mph easy enough, it does take some work to get up to 20 before it gets running good though.

I tracked down a ticking noise I had assumed was valve noise or a lifter giving up to the throttle body. Using a pinpoint stethoscope the heads have no tick the case sounds smooth. The intake runners have a light tick but when you listen anywhere on the throttle body its a loud tick. Does cleaning the injector make the tick go away or is that a candidate for replacement typically.

I realized today it was the pressure test on the tank not the evap system that failed. I have to find a shop to test it, I use a home made smoke can and I don't trust it going right to the tank.

Would leaving the two large house clamps on the intake boot / hose cause an EVAP leak? I realized today I had failed to tighten them back down before going for the first emissions test. The one at the filter box and the one at the throttle body to be specific.

Could you post up some pictures of your car? That sounds different from what I have seen for sure.

I need the help of the Subaru gurus again. I have replaced all the vacuum lines from the charcoal canister across the thermostat housing and into the intake, along with the EGR and solenoid lines and from the vacuum pump down to the T that goes to the trans and ant back fire solenoid. I did spot one line just right of the intake that needs replacement as its breaking apart at the connection. After changing that line out I plan to run a smoke test to look for any leaks i may have missed. The system checked out at 96% efficiency at the emissions station so not a huge leak. Is there a preferred point to start the smoke into the system? All the videos I can find are for newer systems with an actual check valve. https://ibb.co/jpQ0Mp

If its anything like my 02 and 2010 you have the thin cover for the body with 4 bolts, then you have to remove the 6 or 8 bolts holding the pump carrier (not really sure what its called) to the tank as well as a few lines. I had to rotate the whole assembly in the hole about half a turn and tip it to clear the fuel level sender. Just take your time and make sure not to bend the arm for the fuel sender or break the plastic. Looking at a couple videos it looks very much the same as the two I changed.

Thank you all for the help I almost got it passed emissions today but it failed on the evap pressure test. So time to make a smoke can to test it.

I had the green connectors connected reads 18, disconnected it jumps to 20. I'll look for the ground thank you. Yes I did. Rotated to the center of the three timing marks drivers cam mark lined up on the valve cover top passengers side bottom looks good to me.

Interesting it's definitely a spfi car the test plugs are under the hood, the seller never mentioned a motor swap. The snipped wire is yellow black so that's the winner. Now to sort the timing out and figure out why the purge valve solenoid is still setting off the light. I have replaced all the vacuum lines save for a tiny piece on the anti backfire valve that I just remembered as I type, it's the tiny piece held in the spring clip. The purge valve was broken apart and the clip melted so I got a new unit still throws a code. Today I'm going to clean every connection and ground under the hood I can find and go from there. The TPS connector was horribly corroded and setting a code for that originally luckily I don't need that $300 part. My timing is at 18 degrees and the distributor is fully advanced. Spec is 20 degrees -+ 2. I double checked the timing marks they look good. It's been 15 years since my dad showed me how to work on my blazers distributor so I'm not exactly skilled with them. But if I rotate the motor to TDC on 1 I can then pull the distributor turn it a tooth clockwise put it back and have room to adjust correct? Thank you for the help identifying those parts.

Ok second try, Imgur wont upload for me and google pics wants a sign in to view so hopefully IBB works. First 3 are the cut sensor and crimped shut port https://ibb.co/eWTZK9 https://ibb.co/kdoC6p https://ibb.co/cOc5Rp Front of the motor https://ibb.co/eqtC6p Suspect wire https://ibb.co/mBFgz9

Finally got them to upload. Assumed oil pressure wire https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNbe3DoCjmBkDikD9151nbOReni1EHU6NsbOTpi?viewerid=109162445307361054666&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwinqM6KhM3dAhVJ_4MKHRMKCb8Q9QEwIFABegQIBhAf Cut sensor and brass port https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPLzxD8zgtngBUmy7_PaPxm0ir1QpgW9N6C1Xmi?viewerid=109162445307361054666&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwinqM6KhM3dAhVJ_4MKHRMKCb8Q9QEwHlABegQIBhAb https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPzDc3BXfkKvEihfI2ZGvb_VPaF-c2fAvA-Vm-v?viewerid=109162445307361054666&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwinqM6KhM3dAhVJ_4MKHRMKCb8Q9QEwHVABegQIBhAZ

I picked up an 87 GL 10 with SPFI EA82. So many issues with this car, the previous mechanic was an idiot kinda guy that should have all his tools taken away to save the rest of us headaches. Any ways the last few issues I cant sort out come down to 3 things I can not sort out. 1 What color is the wire for the oil pressure sender? I have a big oil pressure unit on the oil pump but the connector was broken off when I bought it. There is a black and yellow wire hanging out of the wiring harness under in the intake same bundle that goes to the purge valve. The wire is cut right to the harness so no idea where it should go to. The other two issue are what on my newer EJ motors would have been a brass port for the PCV system but it has been crimped shut and rolled over. Then right in front of that is a sensor that was cut off and capped with epoxy no clue what its for. I have looked through my shop manual and can not find a wire diagram to match the cut wire or that caped of sensor. Any idea what they may be?