Dbeluscak

Ok well, now the bad news. I received the head gasket set and started reassembly. The lower right bolt that was loose when I disassembled won't get to 51 ft lbs. It's got to be stripped in the block. Is there a decent fix? Helicoil possibly? The TimeSert kit is costly... Or, I'll have to bite the bullet and get another engine. For reference, the car has 234k miles. Even worth it?? Thoughts? Thanks all!

Thanks all! Upon further inspection, prior to your comments, I realized that these look like cracks but most are actually raised lines. Which verifies with what you've said. Great news! New head bolts and gaskets and we're back on the road.

05 Subaru Outback, 234k miles. Pulled the engine to redo someone's head gaskets. Got everything cleaned up and discovered tiny cracks on the surface of the engine case. I'm used to the old 1.8L EA82 engines. Is this common? They weren't leaking anything and not really in structural spots. Are these possibly from the casting process? The real question is do I just reassemble and hope for the best or look for a replacement engine? My thoughts are to just put in the new head gaskets and send it. Previous owner had just done the water pump and timing belt. He didn't want to bother with leaking head gaskets again. Upon disassembly I discovered that the last person to do head gaskets didn't torque it properly. There was one bolt that was no longer torqued. Heads check out for flatness within specs.

Hi all, I'm back with the GL-10 turbo wagon. I've done a complete reseal with all new seals and gaskets. New fuel system (pump, lines, injectors, filter, etc.) I've replaced the fuel filter twice since the reseal. The car sat for years and changed hands several times before I found it. The throttle is still very sluggish. My other wagons with EA82 engines with SPFI seem to have more power than the turbo MPFI. Last week I pulled the injectors just to look at the spray pattern and to see if possibly they were clogged. The spray looks fine. Pump is less than a year old (good quality replacement). New plugs(gapped .045), cap, rotor. All the usual tune up stuff. What I don't get it why is seems so unresponsive. If I mash the throttle, it thinks about it and slowly raises the RPM. When I put in gear (Automatic) it really feels gutless. As I said, my other wagons were much "snappier" with SPFI. I am hoping there's a reasonable solution. I've tried swapping the TPS with no noticeable results. The MAF is different on the Turbo MPFI equipped EA82. 02 sensor? Haven't tried that yet. I am contemplating pulling the fuel pump and seeing if maybe it's blocked from crap in the tank, if so, installing an additional filter pre-pump. While I'm at it, blow out the entire system to make sure I'm getting a steady fuel supply. I do have the original injectors still, I got the replacements from RockAuto. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Looking to sell this vehicle and soon as she's going properly. It's the last one of my heard! Thanks for all your help thus far. Couldn't have done any of it without this forum!

Doubtful on either as it runs great if I pump the throttle. I'm going to check / swap the O2 and clean the MAF. See if that helps.

Every subaru I've bought has come with its own unique "stick" to hold the hatch up. An old timer showed me a trick that works great and it only takes a few minutes. You can attempt this on the car, but it's much easier to remove the struts, you could also just do one. It works too. It's pretty simple really. Just put a slight bend in the piston right before the cylinder. I just put it over my knee and give it light pressure. Works for a while. It straightens itself out after a while and it needs to be redone. But it beats a prop rod any day!

I know this is an "old" issue. I've read through the older posts on the subject. I've got a similar issue with one of my 93's. Just wanted to pick everyone's brain real quick. See if I could find any new answers. 93', SPFI, EA82, Manual trans. This is a strange one, the car idles and revs at idle just fine. Under hard acceleration the engine seems to disappear, there's just no power. Real jerky at low speeds. Doesn't seem to matter dead cold or warmed up. Clutch in - bring up the rpms - clutch out, it will continue to accelerate briefly. Not ideal, obviously. If I feather the throttle (quickly in and out 1-2") throughout the gear, it accelerates fine. Has plenty of power (relatively speaking!). What I've done so far, replaced the entire throttle body with a known good one (borrowed my daily drivers), fresh tune up, timing belts are good, timing @ 20*, no error codes...etc. I haven't cleaned the MAF or checked the O2 sensor. It just has me baffled the way it runs when feathering the throttle. I wouldn't think the MAF or the O2 would be tricked by tapping the pedal throughout the gears. The TPS or IAC made sense, which is why I swapped out the entire TB. Looking forward to any suggestions! I go back to work tomorrow so it'll be a few days before I get to mess with it again.

Whew.. Got it. Disassembled the master cylinder, bench bled, and "power bled" at each wheel. Stops and goes just fine now! Thanks for everyone's help, as usual.

I'm going assume it operates the LF/RR. I'm going to have to retrace the routing. I could've swore it was operating the fronts. But LF/RR makes more sense. I bled the master just in case, checked out the vacuum booster. Here's what I've got; I get fluid out of the FR/LR. I get nothing from LF/RR. Just a few drops and it makes no difference in the pedal height. I've tried with the clutch in, clutch out, seems I'm not making any difference. I did try and bleed the hill holder, got a few bubbles out and it seems to be flowing ok.. Seems like the hill holder is kaput. So... I'm going nuts tracing these lines. From what I can tell what I thought before is backwards. The hill holder is going FR / LR. I've got great fluid on those lines. Any ideas? Looks more like a master cylinder (I took it off and bench bled today) I've given up for the night. I'll get back to it next days off. Thanks for the help!

Whoops! Wrong post.

Ok, I've got a 3 port master with a hill holder. The cable isn't connected to the clutch. I'll get to that. I did notice the brakes grabbing strangely, maybe the hill holder has the line "cut off". It would seem without being attached the hill holder is activated. Under normal circumstances the spring would be engaged due to the clutch spring. Thanks Numbchux, I'll try that out!

So I've got another Loyale in the garage. Had no brakes so I went to bleed and noticed something interesting. I have no fluid out of the RR line. Unfortunately the lines to the rear are separated in the interior of the car. Where does this separation take place? The reason I'm asking, I disconnected the RR line where it exists the interior under the car. I have great pedal pressure and nothing comes out. So the line is plugged/disconnected. Hopefully someone knows where the junction is, otherwise I'm going to have to look.. which means tearing out the interior. And I do have fluid to the LR... Thanks!

Awesome, thanks!

Hey everyone, I'm having trouble finding any info on the placement of the HLAs. There is a snap ring that goes around the HLA, does this need to seat into the valley? I couldn't get the ring to compress any further to get it into the valley. I have it resting on its snap ring. Just not sure of that's correct or not. Thanks.

Will do Dave, I should've specified, I ordered the timing belt kit. Which includes tensioners and the idler sprocket. I have some pics and an electrical question. What are these two vacuum devices? In the lower left with 3 ports, appears to be a "ported vacuum switch" I've found that one at Rockauto. 2/3 ports cracked off trying to remove the vacuum lines. What's the purpose of it? And just above that to the right is another vacuum operated switch. Which is connected to the main wiring harness. What is that? Can't seem to find one. Thanks for the help. For fun, I'll add some pics from the teardown.