Dbeluscak

Ok well, now the bad news. I received the head gasket set and started reassembly. The lower right bolt that was loose when I disassembled won't get to 51 ft lbs. It's got to be stripped in the block. Is there a decent fix? Helicoil possibly? The TimeSert kit is costly... Or, I'll have to bite the bullet and get another engine. For reference, the car has 234k miles. Even worth it?? Thoughts? Thanks all!

Thanks all! Upon further inspection, prior to your comments, I realized that these look like cracks but most are actually raised lines. Which verifies with what you've said. Great news! New head bolts and gaskets and we're back on the road.

05 Subaru Outback, 234k miles. Pulled the engine to redo someone's head gaskets. Got everything cleaned up and discovered tiny cracks on the surface of the engine case. I'm used to the old 1.8L EA82 engines. Is this common? They weren't leaking anything and not really in structural spots. Are these possibly from the casting process? The real question is do I just reassemble and hope for the best or look for a replacement engine? My thoughts are to just put in the new head gaskets and send it. Previous owner had just done the water pump and timing belt. He didn't want to bother with leaking head gaskets again. Upon disassembly I discovered that the last person to do head gaskets didn't torque it properly. There was one bolt that was no longer torqued. Heads check out for flatness within specs.

Hi all, I'm back with the GL-10 turbo wagon. I've done a complete reseal with all new seals and gaskets. New fuel system (pump, lines, injectors, filter, etc.) I've replaced the fuel filter twice since the reseal. The car sat for years and changed hands several times before I found it. The throttle is still very sluggish. My other wagons with EA82 engines with SPFI seem to have more power than the turbo MPFI. Last week I pulled the injectors just to look at the spray pattern and to see if possibly they were clogged. The spray looks fine. Pump is less than a year old (good quality replacement). New plugs(gapped .045), cap, rotor. All the usual tune up stuff. What I don't get it why is seems so unresponsive. If I mash the throttle, it thinks about it and slowly raises the RPM. When I put in gear (Automatic) it really feels gutless. As I said, my other wagons were much "snappier" with SPFI. I am hoping there's a reasonable solution. I've tried swapping the TPS with no noticeable results. The MAF is different on the Turbo MPFI equipped EA82. 02 sensor? Haven't tried that yet. I am contemplating pulling the fuel pump and seeing if maybe it's blocked from crap in the tank, if so, installing an additional filter pre-pump. While I'm at it, blow out the entire system to make sure I'm getting a steady fuel supply. I do have the original injectors still, I got the replacements from RockAuto. I'm open to any and all suggestions. Looking to sell this vehicle and soon as she's going properly. It's the last one of my heard! Thanks for all your help thus far. Couldn't have done any of it without this forum!

Doubtful on either as it runs great if I pump the throttle. I'm going to check / swap the O2 and clean the MAF. See if that helps.

Every subaru I've bought has come with its own unique "stick" to hold the hatch up. An old timer showed me a trick that works great and it only takes a few minutes. You can attempt this on the car, but it's much easier to remove the struts, you could also just do one. It works too. It's pretty simple really. Just put a slight bend in the piston right before the cylinder. I just put it over my knee and give it light pressure. Works for a while. It straightens itself out after a while and it needs to be redone. But it beats a prop rod any day!

I know this is an "old" issue. I've read through the older posts on the subject. I've got a similar issue with one of my 93's. Just wanted to pick everyone's brain real quick. See if I could find any new answers. 93', SPFI, EA82, Manual trans. This is a strange one, the car idles and revs at idle just fine. Under hard acceleration the engine seems to disappear, there's just no power. Real jerky at low speeds. Doesn't seem to matter dead cold or warmed up. Clutch in - bring up the rpms - clutch out, it will continue to accelerate briefly. Not ideal, obviously. If I feather the throttle (quickly in and out 1-2") throughout the gear, it accelerates fine. Has plenty of power (relatively speaking!). What I've done so far, replaced the entire throttle body with a known good one (borrowed my daily drivers), fresh tune up, timing belts are good, timing @ 20*, no error codes...etc. I haven't cleaned the MAF or checked the O2 sensor. It just has me baffled the way it runs when feathering the throttle. I wouldn't think the MAF or the O2 would be tricked by tapping the pedal throughout the gears. The TPS or IAC made sense, which is why I swapped out the entire TB. Looking forward to any suggestions! I go back to work tomorrow so it'll be a few days before I get to mess with it again.

Whew.. Got it. Disassembled the master cylinder, bench bled, and "power bled" at each wheel. Stops and goes just fine now! Thanks for everyone's help, as usual.

I'm going assume it operates the LF/RR. I'm going to have to retrace the routing. I could've swore it was operating the fronts. But LF/RR makes more sense. I bled the master just in case, checked out the vacuum booster. Here's what I've got; I get fluid out of the FR/LR. I get nothing from LF/RR. Just a few drops and it makes no difference in the pedal height. I've tried with the clutch in, clutch out, seems I'm not making any difference. I did try and bleed the hill holder, got a few bubbles out and it seems to be flowing ok.. Seems like the hill holder is kaput. So... I'm going nuts tracing these lines. From what I can tell what I thought before is backwards. The hill holder is going FR / LR. I've got great fluid on those lines. Any ideas? Looks more like a master cylinder (I took it off and bench bled today) I've given up for the night. I'll get back to it next days off. Thanks for the help!

Whoops! Wrong post.

Ok, I've got a 3 port master with a hill holder. The cable isn't connected to the clutch. I'll get to that. I did notice the brakes grabbing strangely, maybe the hill holder has the line "cut off". It would seem without being attached the hill holder is activated. Under normal circumstances the spring would be engaged due to the clutch spring. Thanks Numbchux, I'll try that out!

So I've got another Loyale in the garage. Had no brakes so I went to bleed and noticed something interesting. I have no fluid out of the RR line. Unfortunately the lines to the rear are separated in the interior of the car. Where does this separation take place? The reason I'm asking, I disconnected the RR line where it exists the interior under the car. I have great pedal pressure and nothing comes out. So the line is plugged/disconnected. Hopefully someone knows where the junction is, otherwise I'm going to have to look.. which means tearing out the interior. And I do have fluid to the LR... Thanks!

Awesome, thanks!

Hey everyone, I'm having trouble finding any info on the placement of the HLAs. There is a snap ring that goes around the HLA, does this need to seat into the valley? I couldn't get the ring to compress any further to get it into the valley. I have it resting on its snap ring. Just not sure of that's correct or not. Thanks.

Will do Dave, I should've specified, I ordered the timing belt kit. Which includes tensioners and the idler sprocket. I have some pics and an electrical question. What are these two vacuum devices? In the lower left with 3 ports, appears to be a "ported vacuum switch" I've found that one at Rockauto. 2/3 ports cracked off trying to remove the vacuum lines. What's the purpose of it? And just above that to the right is another vacuum operated switch. Which is connected to the main wiring harness. What is that? Can't seem to find one. Thanks for the help. For fun, I'll add some pics from the teardown.

The timing seems spot on. The motor is out and currently being disassembled. When I removed the intake there was a pool of fuel in cylinders 1 and 2. When I pulled the valve covers the rockers had fallen off the intake valves on each side. How is that possible? Bad springs? At any rate, now that it's out I'm doing a complete teardown. Anything I should do while I'm in here? It's a relatively low mileage engine (124k). I've ordered timing belts, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc. And a complete gasket set. That would easily explain why it wouldn't run. Which I'm glad really. I didn't want to pull this out and find nothing wrong. At least there's a culprit. Want to thank everyone for there continued help and input. This forum has served invaluable to the success of my (and many other) old suubs. Currently, I own 4. My daily driver (91 loyale) has given me over 20k miles! I paid $100 bucks for it nearly 3 years ago. These are cheaper to buy whole then buy parts for! Thanks again, I'll update with pics and progress.

Well... I'm pulling the motor. Best way to diagnose is start from scratch. Ordered a gasket set, timing belts, cap, rotor, and wires. I plan to sell this car and I'm not one to give away a project. When it's done, it'll run properly and be ready for the next 100k miles. It'll be out tomorrow. I'll update with any findings. I'm curious how involved a trans swap would be. I have all the parts from a donor 5spd with Hi/Lo. Although at that point I'd probably want to keep it!

It's been a while.. but this car "was" running at one point. Drug it out of the yard and into the garage. Last time I looked at it I tore out the old injectors. Replaced with new ones. Now the entire fuel system is new. The car just isn't responsive. It will idle and rev slowly. Put it in gear and there's no throttle response, it basically idles around the block. I have a 91 Loyale with SPFI and it's throttle response is what you would expect. At this point I'm at a loss, could it be electrical? I doubt it, because it does "run". I'm going to spray some starting fluid around while at idle and check for vacuum leaks. I think that is a reasonable place to start. On a side note, there are 3 wires from the distributor; upon better inspection they are not from the distributor. It's the wiring harness that runs beside the distributor. It starts at a round plug near the air cleaner. 1. Black/ white stripe (Neg coil) 2. Yellow (Pos coil) 3. Black / Yellow stripe (goes nowhere? Has a spade connector but I see nowhere to hook it up) The car is hard to start, takes 15-20 seconds of pumping the throttle. When it does finally start it'll idle occasionally. If i rev over 2000 rpm it just cuts out and dies. Any ideas?!

Ok, the weather broke for the weekend here in Montana. I got the car running-ish. In park, it will hesitate and rev up. Albeit, not exactly "snappy". The real question lies when I took it on the street for the first time. It tries to stall unless in neutral and basically putted twice around the block. Does shift into second gear if given enough time. All my other subarus are manual this is my first automatic. My first thought was to get the tires off the ground and see if the limp goes away. Instead, I thought I'd ask the experts opinion. This car, bought at auction, presumably hasn't ran in a decade or so. Had the wiring behind the dash torn apart. And finally ran for the first time back in November. I have plenty of fuel pressure, I suppose the injectors are questionable. Plenty of air, the turbo itself gets hot and smoky after a few minutes. It could probably use a closer inspection.. Anyway, as always I appreciate any suggestions or other things to check off my list. Thanks!

I didn't find a warranty card for the pump, not surprising for 22 bucks.. I took the pump out last night and drained the tank. I poured in 2 gallons of fresh and pressurized the tank in an attempt to get out all I could. Putting in a pre filter is a must though, once I start driving it more sediment will mix up at the bottom. Next step is 5 gallons of 91 with some injector cleaner, seafoam, and probably replace a bunch of vacuum lines. Then I've got the electronic ride height to deal with.

Got the new fuel pump installed last night. It went pretty easily, I need to get a 90° fitting for the outlet. Runs into the frame when bolted up. So as soon as it pressured up I blew the rubber line where it enters the interior. Probably have to replace all the old rubber on the pressure side. Here's the new pump. As you can see the outlet is a bit long. After I replaced the blown line I tried firing the engine, no luck. I tapped on the injectors and tried again. I got a little burp and a glimpse of hope. Spayed a little starting fluid, ran for a second. So timing is good. Tried again without the fluid, no luck. I decided to give it a little fuel to see if it runs a little longer. Tapped on the injectors injectors again. Started it up and it ran! Kept it running between 1500-2000. Really made a cloud in the garage! Ran for about 2 minutes and shut it down to look for leaks. Found nothing, sounds good, no knocks. Not running well yet but at least it's running! I'm going to drain the gas tank and get some premium in it. Probably plugs and then start looking for vacuum leaks and continuing on. Then I can start reassembling. Thanks for everyone's help. I'll make sure to keep updating.

- thanks freddo! I'll give both a try. This was an auction vehicle and donated to boot. Seems like someone gave up this car. Who knows when it was running last. The state I got the car in tells me they were in over there head. Dash was apart, everything was unplugged. I basically needed to reassemble it to figure out what they were trying to fix. Not out of the woods yet but there's light at the end of the tunnel. @DaveT I agree after really seeing them side by side there's probably an output difference. The replacement I ordered is an equivalent of the e2000 I've seen mentioned here. I believe it's in the 60-90psi range.

Now that they're side by side, it looks like this might be the problem.. The pic makes it seem there's quite a difference in the pumps. It flows thru the filter but probably not enough oomph to get thru the injector.

Thanks Steptoe! Exactly what I was looking for, probably easier to get a pressure gauge hooked up than pulling injectors. There was a little difference in the size on the outlet end of the 2 pumps. Looks like a built in regulator on the outlet side. Will I need a regulator for the new pump if it's over 40psi?

I ordered a new pump from Amazon just in case. But my spare pump is flowing thru to past the filter. Whether it's enough pressure is another question. Should be, but the replacement should arrive tomorrow. The car tries harder to start with starting fluid. Never really runs, not a huge fan of starting fluid. When I pulled the plugs it was after cranking for about 10 seconds. They weren't fuel soaked. Any idea what the fuel pressure should be? - I assumed it wasn't a ground, just an experiment really. I did learn it cuts the starter solenoid if grounded!