FerGloyale

I'm not sure, but there may be differences in the cam profiles used for Hydro vs. Solid. I would not mix and match. Especially not without a fresh polish on the Cam lobes. Always keep lifters matched to their location on the cam is the best practice. It will likely run, but it's not a good idea to mix and match valvetrain items.

Yeah, I've used a stepper bit in a drill to open up the hole large enough to fit the universal old Ford type (round with spring tabs). The biggest reason I did this was to use 2 fillament, amber bulbs in the corner markers to have them be both marker and turn indicator.

Why not use a factory thermo switch? No adapter. Turns on fans at ~200 degrees. Use it to trigger a relay that powers the fans directly from battery (through fuse)

EGR can be deleted without making engine trouble. And is super simple and easy system to fix if that's actually an issue. Evap issues? like blowby? or vac leaks? EGR and EVAP are fairly passive sytems and shouldn't make the car run bad. The reason I ask, is because if you are thinking it's EGR and EVAP, it may actually be Fuel injection issues. In that case a weber would wake that motor right up. If it's blow-by/burning oil......it needs rings. Pretty easy to do while engine is out for headgaskets. just pull pistons after heads are off and clean out the landings and replace rings.

i've got one out on a shelf. I'll take some measurements the "hermosa" style on that website looks like it might be a close fit.

it does. By holding the brake, and stopping the axles from rotating, they become firmly tensioned against the CV cup walls. This effectively becomes a tripod mount that becomes stationary, taking away the vibration dampening of the rubber mount. It happens in Subarus more than other makes because of the relatively long, angled, and equal length axles.....making an even triangle that stiffly locks the trans firm in relation to the body.

Speed sensor is built into the speedo head. It has 2 wires coming out of it, One yellow/red, the other Black. 2 pole "T" connector (black) should be able to find it hanging under the dash connected to nothing. If you are using OBD I harness it won't matter, but if OBD II it will cut out at 4k rpms without a speed sensor signal.

all of the 4 pin round relays are interchangeable. I do not not believe the relays are needed as part of the dash lighting/marker lighting. Check for any connectors still loose.

this was my reasoning fo saying it will be 3.9 Only 3.7 dual ranges in the USDM market were in RX cars, and on;y the early 85/86 models were Part time. Since this box has Part time transfer at the back (no side lever for diff lock) and it's 23 spline stubs........so it's got to be from an carbed 85-87 USDM GL Wagon/Sedan/3-door ***side note.....Part time single range boxes in 3.7 ratio, with 23 spline stubs, did come in 4wd, 4cyl XT's. Non-turbo. But no Dual ranges so this box is not one of those.

Yu Yup. That's what I'm saying. everything after 82 or 83 IIRC. They had the VSS for use in the optional dealer installed cruise control. ECS light was used in California models, 2wd models (with feedback carbs) and also on FI models (turbo) Unused for most 4wds, but it's still there in the dash.

check for disty rotor attached....no lost screw. and then timing belts

You will leave the Brat gauge cluster. You need to fish the 2 pole connector (black) with Yellow/red and black wire in it from under the dash. Ground the black wire, and run the Yellow/red one to the VSS wire of the EJ ECU harness. If you want an ECS light (CEL) operational, you will also need to attach a wire the pin in the dash electrical socket for the ECS light. The bulb should already be there.

Looks to be a standard 5spd D/R from an 85-87 GL. 88/89 would have the LO range light switch on the side, but this one it's absent. 23 spline stubs, selective 4wd (not FT w/ difflock)

Post pics. Location of the D/R shaft, transfer end setup, and front diff stub size will all be useful in determining. should be able to say for sure what year and gear with that info.

add a 22mm socket and wrench for suspension parts. 21 wrench for a few weird item...can't remeber.....maybe a PSpump line?

I don't think Fasetenal (who is not shipping company, per se) gives tracking #'s Either way......Callling Shawn a thief in this situation is a stretch. We all respect him and his business. You aren't goin to convince us that he's a crook or out to screw you over and take yer damn $500 buck (a totally super duper price for a FT4wd D/R box with 23 spine stubs swapped in) He's not a liar or a thief. you sound like a petulant child whining that you didn't get yer christmas present yet. This is why I don't ship engines or transmissions. It's a difficult process, and as soon as something hit's a snag......you get dragged by the person who understandably is irritated at not getting their parts. Maybe you should find another RX fulltime trans for a super deal. Or maybe just drag yer knuckles back to yer IROC But stop calling Shawn a liar or a thief. He is neither.

Use 3rd/4th gears. And remember to compensate for speedometer off......you may already be going faster than you think. I have 31"s and when my speedometer says 40, I'm doing 55, when it says 55, I'm doin 80. It won't really push 5th gear at all. 4th I've got to be on flat-ish ground no head winds and top speed is around 65-70 (actual) That's with a 2.2. Honestly spend your money on smaller tires. 33"s are too big.

shorted wire in the door wiring. Circuit breaker and control box under passenger seat might be smoked, but circuit breaker is cutting out.......that's the gauge dropping and coming back up as the breaker cuts out. I'd check the heavy red wire that goes from a junction under passenger side foot carpet out ot hte doors. There is a crimp junction with 5 red wires collared in brass. Check that too for corrosion and re-wrap it with tape. trace that wire up intot eh door loom to find the short. If all doesn't return to normal after that, then replace control unit under pass seat.

shorted wire in the door wiring. Circuit breaker and control box under passenger seat might be smoked, but circuit breaker is cutting out.......that's the gauge dropping and coming back up as the breaker cuts out. I'd check the heavy red wire that goes from a junction under passenger side foot carpet out ot hte doors. There is a crimp junction with 5 red wires collared in brass. Check that too for corrosion and re-wrap it with tape. trace that wire up intot eh door loom to find the short. If all doesn't return to normal after that, then replace control unit under pass seat.

<<<<<"TaKe MuH mOnEy" meme here>>>>>> yes please I'll take 3.

Oh and it won't fit your car without modification to everything in the front end in some way. Ball joint hole too big, if you use correct balljoint to fit arm, it won't fit the knuckle. They are wider so longer axle needed. Won't fit the radius rod plate (rear pivot) without fully changing mounting type, and lift likely. you need to get a used arm, or build a new arm from your old one. Cut it, straighten it, reinforce it, weld it.

That is incorrectly listed as being for a 93-94 loyale. It is not. Fits alot of EJ platform cars. return it if you can as falsely listed. IDK, I suppose there were alot of L-series variants around the world, perhaps somewhere, in some country there were L-series (Leone, Isuzu Geminette?) that would use control arm like that but not in the US or any other 3rd gen L-series I know of. 93-94 otherwise.

88 Gl should indeed have had a neutral switch. It was originally FI, correct?

replace the charcoal canister. 3 12mm nuts at the rear passenger side under bumper.

I've been wondering what your loaded trail weight is? I've had the thought after I look at yer pictures and videos of the speeds you hit stuff too think "Damn I'd be bottoming out my rear suspension constantly" That is until just recently with the addition of a second set of springs for the rear....but I digress. So yeah, What's that beast weigh ready to roll with a full tank?