FerGloyale

Short answer is no. Long answer is possibly with some fabrication of adapters or modification to the bumper itself.

Hi-jacking my own thread here. Finally got back to the XT6 project car I've been stalled on. IMG_3815 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Took advantage of a nice day to to fire it and drive it up into the shade for the rear diff swap. IMG_3817 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr The car started obviously with the ER27 6cyl. But I've replaced that with a fully rebuild from the crank out EJ251. I also used the matching 4.44 auto trans from the donor 01 Outback the EJ came from. Air suspension delete using Legacy front struts and XT4 rear shocks and springs. Cybrid electric steering replaced with conventional EJ25 steering pump. But I've been driving it around the yard in FWD, because I had not swapped in a 4.44 rear diff. So here it is. Had to swap the spider gears into the 4.44 diff, as that ratio never came with external bolt in stubs. Sorry no pics of the spider swap just filling hte diff and stamped 4.44 on the cover. IMG_3818 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3819 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Terrible picture of the dropped 3.7 stock diff. IMG_3821 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Denso direct fit.

Ignore the mark on the plastic cover to some extent. Instead, line the mark up with the Cam Case to Head seam. This will also be exactly 12 0'clock. It's common for the plastic covers to be off a bit, resulting lining up at about 11:58, to continue the o'clock analogy. Can you take a picture standing back a bit? So we can see a reference to the whole engine a bit? My guess is you are off one tooth. Did the belt you used have marks alignment marks on it? If so how did those line up when you installed?

If you paid for a warranty, use it. Have the yard where you bought it get you another trans. It's not working. That means you get another one. That's what warranties are for. It's also why I pull the pan on engines and trans before accepting them from a yard.

The outback ones are indeed taller.

Take it back for the warranty. It's junk

Yeah the front and rear arms hang down alot further than axles. Here's proof. IMG_3779 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr These will be changed to heavy wall tube arms soon. Or not, maybe I'll just carry cheap, light and easy junk yard spares! Here is the bent axle before removal, there isn't a bash mark on it. You can also see from this angle, the axle sits higher than the suspension mounts and arms, and will travel further up "in" to the space between them on compression, so only a, thin, tall, odd rock could reach it. IMG_3780 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3781 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

My guess is the TPS is seeing it's fully closed value when you are at light throttle. I think this type has an initial "fully closed" switch built in that goes to ground when at idle, off throttle entirely. If that switch portion is closing too early, this causes the ECU to cut fuel for engine braking, then as you begin to press the accelerator a bit more in response to slowing down, you open the idle switch in the TPS and fuel kicks in again. Try the adjustment procedure for setting the TPS idle switch "fully closed" position.

Yes you've got it straight about pulling the shaft, with bearing attached, straight through the trailing arm hole. The CV boot just barely slips through with factory axles. It's the way you have to do it when the splines are seized up in the bearings, which seems to happen frequently. I suppose aftermarkets with larger CV cup this would not work. But with factory, makes for easy swap out. I'm going to get about a dozen spares from the wreckers........Pull them this way and you get the bearing and CV for just the price of the CV axle. Don't even need to remove E-brakes, just pull the ABS sensor (12mm bolt on top) or it's tip will be broken. As for the bent shafts.........Both the one that snapped, and the one that didn't had the same, long arcing bow. Neither had scrapes or marks from hitting rocks. It was a pretty dry day, and I can see tell tale bash marks on places like the trailing arm brackets, and rear diff mount clearly, but there are no marks like that on either axle. I really think the bend is from 250 miles of street driving with brand new, sticky, 31" mud tires on the welded rear end.

I'm having a hard time understanding this post I must say. 2 things stand out. 1) Only the headlights themselves are Negative switched. All of the lights you are talking about here, turn, markers and brake lights, are switched on Positive side and the single ground wire to the bulb sockets is normal. Stop lights and tail lights are separate circuits. If they are interfering with each other it's likely a bulb or socket issue at one of the 2 tailights. I've seen single filament bulbs stuffed where there should be double cause stuff like this. Check both fixture's bulbs and sockets. 2) For standard 4 wire trailer setup, you need a converter box, (basically 2 diodes) to make the separate side turn signals, also operate the Brake lights of the trailer. The best converter boxes are also a relay of sorts, using a separate, fused, heavy gauge wire from Battery + to supply the trailer's voltage, rather than loading the trailer lights onto the existing lighting circuits. That usually helps trailer lights be nice and bright, and prevents overloading the vehicles 10 or 15 amp fuses.....especially if the trailer is very long, with lot's of lights, or has very skinny wires, poor grounds, corroded housings etc..... Here is the cheapo kind, that's just a pass through to bridge trailer brakes/turns into single ciruit.https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74209-Trailer-Converter/dp/B0008G1NNY And here's a good type, with seperate 12v+ to power trailer, and uses vehicles lighting cicuits just as "triggers" for the trailer lighting through this box.https://www.amazon.com/59146-Powered-2-Wire-Taillight-Converter/dp/B00537GKBI/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=converter&qid=1561645912&s=automotive&sr=1-12 Unless somehow your trailer has separate amber turns as well. then the wiring would be direct from the vehicle, but you'd need 5 wires for that type of setup. Relays would also be good there for reasons I mentioned above about length of circuit and additional bulbs adding resistance.

yeah, the rears are all the same listing 96-99, but the fronts, I think maybe the valving changed a bit but both #'s are the same height spec. I always recommend and buy the 99's for my clients.

I'll take a pic after shafts installed.

Alright, probably the first post to be this excited about tiny 13" wheel impreza brakes and axles ever!! Had to put a new wheel bearing into the drivers side knuckle today. Bearing was so bad the hub was trashed too. I had to press one from a 96 Outback and remove the tone ring. Now all pressed in with new bearing and ready to go now. Here the Combo......mocked up for sexy all their 13" wheel, 23 spline Impreza sexiness. 1st gen Legacy non-abs Knuckles 93 FWD Imprezas axles 93 FWD Impreza rotors 242mm 93 FWD Impreza Caliper brackets 93 Impreza FWD brake pads Impreza actual calipers will be replaced with the EA82 calipers on the rig currently. IMG_3809 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a pic of the difference in the slider pin sizes. Upper pin teh EA82 pin is longer, and possibly larger diameter.....haven't pulled them apart yet. IMG_3810 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Lower pin looks like it might be the same length, gotta also check diameter too. More to come. IMG_3811 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Next up, XT6 control arms widened 5/8th inch (1-1/4 track width increase to match stock Impreza) And 2011 Outback Front shocks, modified perches to use 2004 Outback rear springs. Thoughts?

The spacer let's the reverse idler selector shaft to slide fully to the detent, but takes up the slack in the tab that actually moves the idler gear. I don't mind holding the shifter If I have to, but I think it should be good. I have seen the safety tabs on 4EAT ring gears, and I think in some rear diffs. But this EA82 D/R doesn't have them. Proper torque and Loctite should work. This trans has 200k+ miles already and the last 20k have been behind the EJ22 doing spoob like this. Inevitably I will 4.44 4EAT, or T-case this thing. So it's good enough for now.

Pics of the reverse spacer/blocker. Started with a 3/4 brass nut from hardware store, it was also about 3/4 " thick to start. IMG_3799 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Cut it nearly in half, after drilling out the center to 13/16 inch to fit revere idler shaft. IMG_3800 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Then sanded cut face until it measured .235" IMG_3801 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here it is mock up installed on the reverse idler shaft. This is where it will ride when not in reverse. IMG_3804 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And when reverse engaged IMG_3803 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And more carnage pics. Good thing the reverse failed, because upon dismantling transmission, I found this. Ring gear bolts backing out IMG_3797 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Inside the case IMG_3796 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Took the whole carrier to the vice, unbolted and cleaned the crap out of the ring gear bolt holes and bolts. Reinstalled to factory torque value (49 ft/lbs) with generous amount of red loctite on all bolts. Sorry no pics. It's coming together........Seals should be in at dealership (Corvallis Subaru, formerly John + Phils ) this afternoon.

check fusible link

Yeah, I've had bad luck getting the wrong side Sachs brand. returned what I thought to be a "flawed" product, only to get he same part again. It's basically a drivers side strut, with brake line tab reversed. Don't know if that's what you are getting. At any rate you can use the driver side on the passenger side. Bend up the tab at the front and rotate the strut so that the spring perch is out like it should be. leave that tab unbolted. Clamp it in, and use a ziptie to hold the brake line to the strut.

339151/152 are for 99

the tool is like $15 bucks, and the quality of the clamping action will be WAAAY better. Slip throughs from beck arnley, you'll never get em tight, they will spew grease. I'd reuse the factory ones before using the ones that come with the boots.

Yeah.....Waaaay over cautious. Perfectly fine to reuse the nuts. Although if they strip or break off coming apart the no obviously. Pop the CV out of the diff with a prybar, easy. Rebooting is a PITA. Get a good pair of snapring pliers, and also crimp type clamps and tool for the new boots. The pull through and bend clamps are aPITA. Although I have reused the factory clamps in a pinch.

That's not the right part. That's the rubber for the linkage. You need subaru part # 7331 46000 Plastic bushing that grabs that shifters ball joint when bolted down) and 7331 54000 (less important but helps the fit greatly) They may not be available from subaru anymore. Otherwise, stop pulling up on the shifter.

Transmission carnage pics. I had hoped it was the reverse idler that stripped....no such luck, it was the teeth on the upper shaft that broke. IMG_3790 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3789 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3791 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So thankfully I've got a spare upper shaft sitting here in a box.....I think the unit it was in blew the pinion shaft behind an EJ25. I pulled the D/R gearset to sell a board member in Alabama a while back. Saved the rest of the shaft/gearset just for an occasion like this. IMG_3792 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I did have to swap the D/R gears from my current broken trans, onto the new shaft. No pics of that. It's just a big C-clip. There is a tiny ball that located the spacer, but it's all obvious and easy if anyone needs to do this repair themselves, don't be daunted. IMG_3793 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I will put up more pics of the reverse mod when I get to it. For now, here's part #'s for all the D/R 5 spd seals. Front outputs : 8067 30031/30032 Right and Left respectively. Rear output seal: 8067 35070 D/R shifter seal : 8067 15020 4wd selector shaft seal, rear : 33194 AA001 (superseded from AA010) 4wd selector shaft seal, front: 33193 AA000 gear Selector shaft seal : 8067 18100 (superseded from 18040) extension case gasket : 44225 7000

I had thought this to be the case too. Hmm.... i wonder if the timken Specs are referencing splines of hub vs. splines of the axle stubs, Peaks vs. Valleys and such? 24 peaks, 25 valleys?

Or just buy the Subaru genuine Koyo bearings and kit. All the bearings I've found through Granger or Fastenal or whatever are china junk. works in a pinch, or if you're gonna do sand dunes and replace them twice a years. But for a regular road car, if you want them to be best quality, you can't beat 44 dollars for both bearings, and both seals. from Subaru. All Japanese. It's an XG part # in their system, I don't have the whole part # handy.