FerGloyale

The struts have Hi and Low switches at each end of the travel. That makes signal that the Air Suspension computer uses to control pressure at each wheel. Air is vented through the solenoid attached to the side. Do you have an FSM for the car? I may be able to hook you up with one of mine, or at least scan and E-mail the relevant Air suspension pages.

Awesome Todd! Good to know about the spline change from 00-04/05-09. I knew the bearing and rear suspension is all the same, but I guess the hub and axle are different. Won't matter for my setup as I will be pulling axles and wheel bearings as a complete unit when I swap them. I like the idea of cutom stubs for the rear diff is cool. I'd like a set for when I T-case my wheeler. I still don't get how the length issue of outer splines will work out. Seems like fronts would be too short to go through the entire hub. I'm sure if there is a way, you'll work it out. Keep up the awesome research. I couldn't have done my project without some of the info you've provided in this mega thread. Thanks.

I used to lapidary optical glass. I know. Your lenses fogged again after months because you didn't get deep enough on your first 2 grits. And you can't smear a product to an optical smoothness. how smooth can you ice a cake? not like polished glass. Goo distorts the light. I polished my wife's 03, 2 years ago, and run regular Halogens and we can see fine. I live in the woods too. We have Elk. Sounds like you need to invest in a bull bar, Make your auxillary lights brighter, and maybe slow down? If you are blinding oncoming cars, you may see the moose or deer, but then THEY CAN'T! I also know that here in the US, lots of people are adding Non-street legal LEDs that are even worse. Again, add auxiliary lighting that you can use when no other traffic, and you can turn off as others pass by. Blinding people is not cool. My last thoughts on the subject.

Very nice. Still looking for rear air struts? I've got several sets. I'm sure a few of them work or at least could be serviced. I'd send you them all! Shipping to UK could be alot though. Got your lines mostly removed from parts car. Just gotta detach the actual rear struts and pull them through the car.

It will run super fine. You may ahve a CEL for EGR. I tried the "workaraound" didn't work on my car....still get EGR code. O2 sensor isn't seeing enough change with EGR plumbed to intake air. But runs fine.

2nd section of rocks at this park. This is where I pop the reverse idler.

3m Kit goes 300, 600,1500, 2000, 3000, then to polish pad. You've got to wet sand all of them, aggressively go at them with the first stages, 300,600 and then fully sand at every stage and then polish from there. No silly UV smear, it's already polycarbonate......goo distorts the light (i.E. ruins the optical quality of the polish) As for informative about effective brightness. LEDs are effectively so bright they can blind someone and cause them to lose control, possibly head on into you. I would say that when another driver finds them so bright as to be obnoxious, that is also a relevant observation. It's not all about you're ability to see, but everybody on the roads ability to see. Do what you want with your brights, I guess.......But your low beams that everyone has to look at should not blind others so you think you can see a little better.

Meguire treatment? If it's some wipe on stuff that ain't gonna cut it. Cracked yellow plastic has terrible optical quality. They look clear to you, but their ability to pass light is still gonna suck. You need the 3m polishing kit, a drill, and some patience. Fully grind and polish off all the old yellow plastic. That will help tons. LEDs are obnoxious.

replace the Charge fuse. That could be all that's wrong. BUT.........if it keeps popping the fuse, or......... If then light still does not come on with key on, try providing ground the the BW wire at the ALT plug with Key on. That should light the indicator. If it doesn't, pull indicator bulb and verify if burnt out or not. If it does light the bulb when manually grounded, but not with ALT hooked up at key on, then Alt is shot.

Well, I've always disliked the idea of driving a welded diff on the street. And here's why. So much stress on the axles, it's actually twisted the shaft.... Here's the unbroken shaft still installed. IMG_3781 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And side by side with the 2 "new" JY axles IMG_3783 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is my solution to driving on road with an axle pulled. First, removing the broken shaft. Slide hammer isn't necessary, but since I'm at home and it was easy, I used it to pull the entire bearing, and shaft through the trailing arm. *note, remove the ABS sensor before doing it this way If you want to keep your ABS working. I was happy to discover this can actually be done without removing hte E-brake setup......Although it's not used in my case, for those of you out there needing to swap an axle, this is hte way to go. No unbolting of links and shock. IMG_3759 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3760 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Next, taking the broken axle to the vice, and removing the broken shaft. IMG_3762 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3763 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3764 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Then cleaned and reinstalled as a "dummy stub" on the left side. IMG_3776 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And same thing for the inner cup.....much easier, just pull the circlip and slide the CV cage slides out. IMG_3775 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Now I will not be stressing the rear axle or diff driving in town, and It's only a 10 min proceedure that requires one 14mm socket and ratchet to install the other axle when I get to trails. Check out my Flickr page for the rest of the axle disassembly pics. Tomorrow, pulling trans and fixing reverse idler.

Thanks. Pulled 2 axles with bearings from the rear of an 03 at the junkyard today. Dropping the trans out this weekend hopefully and installing axles. We will have round two of testing weekend after next.

CV axles. Almost every time. You can't feel it by hand......Just vibration, especially on throttle/ under load.

Easy to get to with a long extension. Personaly, I would buy OE Japanese made only. Might not need to be from dealer but should be Japanese made. "Unisia" I think is the OE maker.

Drivers (car left) pulley has pickup tabs on the back side edge. Pass side (car right) does not. I f you mean how to tell between US and JDM, I think they will be the same if engine type is the same.

The breather tube in the far back corner. It sticks up into the baffle area covers by the rear seperator plate. Uses an O-ring there to seal that drain back tube for eh PCV. Keep teh PCV from passing oily fumes intot eh intake. Not the Pick-up tube.

Modify the perch for a smaller diameter spring. Cut the extra perch off

Another angle / walk along

You can take both ends of the low side line to an A/C shop, and they can make a properly, permanently crimped flex section. Just tell them how long. MAC's radiators in Albany, Oregon did a set to mate an Impreza compressor to an EA82 car. In my case it was the high side needed. The impreza low side line hooked right up to the Evap core.

You are correct about that condenser. It should be on the + side on your model. And it's not necessary to make the engine run. Old school points disty required them, but not this setup, it's just for noise suppression. But I don't see the second yellow wire on the coil that would be the tach wire. Without that , the FPCU won't power the fuel pump.

While I totally see the point from a shop perspective. Yeah I guess someone would have to pay alot of labor time for the cleaning, that would make the new stuff more attractive. But for a DIY-er........That's getting close to 200 bucks........I think a few cans of brake clean and some compressed air is a fine option on a weekend day. Compromise would be new stock (non-STI) pan (about 45 bucks) and a new o-ring for the pickup tube. baffle doesn't even need to come out if your just resealing the pan. I use a steam "Jenny" washer to clean mine.

Maybe but I think no. Basically depends on 2 things. 1) Does the 05 have AVLS? if so, the 03 will not work 2) Is the 05 one of the weird Cali models with Single, Oval port heads, and active intake air managment (kinda like the TGV on turbo models) ? If the answer is NO to both, then the 03 will work in the 05.

So, got to take a test run on Fathers Day. Had a blast. Rear suspension tracked awesome on road, held up to lots more weight than before. Tackled some rock sections at Shotgun Creek OHV. Unfortunately, broke a rear CV on the left side nearly out of the gate. So most of this video I'm actually in 3wd, lol. You can see a few times the left rear just rolling along not spinning up when the right side is. It's welded so they both should spin together always. I had been driving about 100~150 miles on pavement before that with welded rear diff with both axles in. I had always been paranoid about that, and this didn't help. I haven't devised a good way to do a quick axle pull with the 00-09 Outback suspesnion. I'm thinking leave dummy stubs in for the street and pull the wheel bearing and hub and install axle straight through the trailing arm? Time consuming, but it's a bit less than disconnecting suspesion arms to install an axle. Oh well, the 03 donor this stuff came from had 280k miles so I guess that ol' axle went out with a bang. Sadly, I the next set of boulders, struggling (unknowingly at the time) with 3WD, I ended up losing reverse. Gotta open up the box and add Ivans brass spacer to the reverse Idler. I'm about 99% sure that's what happened. I might post those vids later. Thanks to all that have inspired my continuing builds. Y'all know who you are.

if it's not terribly bent, just mate it up. Good bead of sealant, but not too much.make sure to go on the inside edge of the bolt holes with the bead.....ovelap the holes by a 1/16" or so, this gets some sealant on the threads of your bolts. Oil can leak past them if you don't. The bolts will pull it up tight as long as it's not creased or waaaay distorted.

Driveline removal is only for Dolly towing where front is off the ground. Totally unnecessary any MT Subaru can be flat towed. Flat towing hte rear driveline will just get dragged behind like it always does, all the gears inside the trans spin together, but leave it in 2wd rather than selectable 4wd. Newer AWD, MT trans also can flat tow, center diff does it's job just rolling along. Technically you could even dolly a selectable 4wd with driveline in place, you would be trusting the selector lever to stay in 2wd, and also only the rear output would spin, and it doesn't get lubed unless the main shaft and pinion shaft spin, so not good for any distance more than a few miles. This doesn't work. Without the engine running, there is no fluid pressure so the Duty c does nothing key on or off, fuse in or out. it can't regulate pressure that isn't there. They can be flat towed also just fine. all 4 wheels rolling together in "N" is fine. Again, removing driveline or disconnecting somehow the rear end is only for DOLLY towing where front wheels off the ground and stationary, and rear is rolling. That is a big no no for AT, no matter what you do, becasue there is no fluid to lube hte plates as the front pinion sit's still, and the back output turns, the stack of plates will overheat and burn up very quickly.