FerGloyale

my experience too. Although I built a custom bumper. Stock beam is easily replaced/beefed up by adding a piece of 3" channel. Bolted towbar to that. Skin could be added back on, although I chose not to for my needs.

First, there is no coil "GROUNDING" wire. The coil grounds through it's bracket. No ground wire, ever. The - side of the coil should have 2 wires on it. One from the disty, and one Yellow one that is TACH signal wire. That same TACH signal wire also goes to the FPCU. THE FPCU, will only pass power on to the Fuel pump, and to the Auto choke and anti-diesel solenoid on the carb IIRC. At any rate. There should not be any wire from the coil to ground. If you did that, that could explain blown fuses, and no TACH signal to the FPCU, hence no fuel. A side note, fuses are rated in AMPS, not volts. All wireing int eh car is 12v. The size of the load determines the AMPS needed for any fuse. Now, if you put a larger fuse in (20A instead of 15) the circuit won't blow when it should, and the FPCU may have been hurt by the grounded coil wire. Although honestly, that doens't really look burned.....trouble is likely somewhere else. make sure the yellow wire is on the - side of the coil, and no wires from either post to ground and try one of the new FPCU units.

It's not clear from Steptoe's post whether his 99 EJ20 is a DOHC or SOHC......Sounds like it may be an early DOHC turbo, and he mentions having to lift the engine to access plugs. Maybe Steptoe could chime in here and clarify if his Brumby swap is a 99 SOHC or DOHC. Bratman, the pic you posted appears to be a natural RHD model, With A RHD 2.5 swap. So I am assuming this isn't one of your cars and likely photo pulled from the net? And you can't see the frame rails so if you didnt do this swap, you don't know what was done to make it fit. I would be more than happy to be proven wrong. Opens up options for me in the future. But I'm not gonna "let it go" until I see proof, of which there has been none in this thread. As always, my only interest in being on this board is to help spread ACCURATE information about our old subes.

Right, and my point is that the SOHC 2.5 engines, (espescially AVLS version) are even wider still than this. OP asked about putting a SOHC 2.5 in a Brat. I just can't see it fitting.

Lift will drop the engine further between the rails. It would need to be like 13" (~330mm) to drop the engine below the rail, and then you'd need lift blocks that flared out from the point the rails are at. I've got a 6 inch lift on my EA81, and the EJ22 fit's with about 1/2" (13mm) of clearance or less at the back corners of the valve covers. DOHC 2.5 are about 1" wider (26mm) at the back corner so MAYBE......Sohc 2.5 is more than 2" wider (50mm), so I really really don't think it's doable in EA81 without changing something.....lift or not. I really feel like pics or it didn't happen without frame rail mods.

Oil does run through it, but only through the center and the rim that oil filter covers. The lines on the side are coolant in and out. It's wafer setup. Coolant runs between the wafers, and oil runs through the holes in the wafer stacks. Should be described more as a heat exchanger, than a cooler really. The blue coolant is subaru's (and others) special improved premium quality. Made by Pentafrost IIRC. But yeah it's just a bit expensive. I would just move the cooler to the side a bit, not actually remove it. Slip the new O-ring carefully up into it's groove before reinstalling. Should be enough to get to the oil sender.

Didn't they say they were the "original" Aussie locker? I think that's the overlap that confused me. Funny though, I went wheeling this weekend, and my buddy took video and posted to his facebook. Someone in the comments on that FB post linked to this same company and locker. Apparently the guy has a prototype, ready to install. But not actually running it yet. It's just weird to get to comments online from waaaaay seperate sources about the same new product. Anxious to see it in action, but honestly doesnt help me since I've run welded rear diffs for years. Now a FRONT locker would be cool.......if on;y for wheeling rigs. I think that would be iffy for a street car.

I could be wrong but I feel like there was a thread about someone from this company, or pretending to be them anyway took money from folks and then disappeared. Not making any accusation, just caveat emptor.....especially if you pony up money for a "prototype" This is also technically not a locker. It's a very powerful limited slip, but requires some wheel spin before "locking". Not like an Air or electric activate locker. That said, it would be a great upgrade to an offroad subaru and I'm excited to see if this is the real deal or another "we are looking at it" tales.

Change the upstream o2 sensor and the spark plugs (NGK or Denso only) Popping during braking if not a balljoint or brake issue is likely the front control arm pivot bushing., the back one.

What kind of "locker" did you find for an R160 diff? Also broken bolts are very easy to remove. Then you wouldn't need to swap any pinions around in the case. Which is not so great, because then you have to totally reset the gear mesh and backlash. You probably have to do that anyhow if you are changing the ring gear carrier.

use a thin wall, 12pt socket not an impact socket. It's possible without removing that allen head bolt. Use a factory sensor. They aren't that expensive from Subaru so no reason to buy an inferior aftermarket that will cause more problems. Removing oil cooler is easy. Get the O-ring from Subaru to seal it. Worth doing because it's one of the known leak points that will develop on the EZ motor.

You want Brakes. not breaks. Breaks are not good for cars.

Scalman, it's awesome to see your travel pictures. Lithuania looks very similar to the Pacific Northwest region of the USA. You ever come across any yummy Mushrooms? Regular edible kinds, like Morel (Morchella) Chanterelles, or Boletes? Looks like a good area for fungi.

What happened to the handles?

one of those sockets has a ground short, probably through a lot of corrosion to provide just enough resistance to not blow the fuse, but enough to draw the volts down.

It's been hitting me pretty damn hard. My wrists are painfully, achingly pins and needles at night. But it doesn't go away with motion and circulation increase. It just friggin hurts all night. Still can rip things apart by hand, but I try now to use more tools instead of tough.

Again, they all (up to 2004ish at least) use the same 4 per rotation pulse as the old reed switches in the EAs I really think it's a connector and ground issue more than anything. just inferring from my experience with swaps. Sounds like it's possible 12v to the 4EAT sensor is needed, but I would think the ECU would provide the 5v that is ultimate the signal voltage, and see the pulse as it was grounded. None of the FSM ECU pinout voltage charts make any distinction between AT/MT. Voltage on the VSS pin is always either 0 or 5 At any rate, it's probably easier, and certainly for a client, I would just recommend buying the correct VSS for the MT.

yeah actually he'll need an exhaust Pre-cat section from a 95 2.2 or a 95-99 2.5 engine of some sort. Outback, early Forester or Leg GT the 94 y-pipe is all 1 piece with the front cat and won't directly fit the 96.

t will only leak what's in the oil galleries. That will happen whether you drain the oil pan or not because the pressure sensor is on the pressure side of the pump, not submerged in the sump.

I would go further and ask to remove the oil pan. I've seen more than one "good" engine for sale, only to have bearing material (lots of it) found int he bottom of the pan. I won't pay more than $50 bucks for an engine if I can't pull the oil pan to inspect.

the later models with the "wrap around" exhaust can be difficult. I know after 2005 they started the altered oil pan and doubled back exhaust. Especially difficult in models without the oil cooler. The filter is surrounded by exhaust pipe heat shields. That being said, filter should still be tightened by hand only. Using a rag or blue shop towel to grip makes for better grip.

the jog is meant to make it easier to know which gear you are in. If you can push shifter right, your in 3rd, and can drop to second. If you can't slide right, then you are either in D or in 2nd. Plus there is an indicator on the dash. To do the same in my 98 forester you have to press the button to get from 3rd to 2nd, with no indicator on the dash. I prefer the H6 gated shifter. (my wife has an 03 ll bean) Anyhow, my point was that what you are experiencing is a characteristic of the model, not a fault in your car. If you are moving too fast for 1st gear, the downshift won't engage if that's what you mean. (ie. engaging 1st would over rev the engine, the TCU will not engage 1st, or 2nd or 3rd for that matter if the TCU deems speed to be excessive for the gear.) How fast are you trying to jump out into traffic if you feel the need to grab 1st gear to get in front of someone? jk.....but really 1st gear is revved out by 15~20 mph. Second isn't fast enough? Maybe you need new spark plugs and premium gas (that's what it's supposed to get) PS, you are better off trying to jump into traffic in D than 2nd. When you start off, from a stop or near stop in "2" the TCU will start you in 2 rather than 1st. If you are in D, it will start you in 1st. Only use the downshift while moving to pass, or going down hill or into a corner to engine brake. Use 2 "hold" starting from a stop in very icy situations where you don't want wheel spin.

Running a new main 12+ wire to the Circuit breaker at the window relay helps, a little. Also, check under the passenger side carpet for the red wire 5 way junction.....corrodes at the crimp joint. Right under passengers feet. Relay and breaker are under the seat itself. They were always slow.

Yes use your existing strut tops. Make sure you order "legacy Outback" struts.....not "outback sport which are just imprezas with a paint job. There are no 2wd Outbacks. Fronts KYB # 339151/152 and Rears 335020/021 link to KYB page https://www.kyb.com/catalog/

Either ECU has no problem dealing with a simple reed pulse from the old EA's when we do swaps. So how would they not be able to see the same sensor? Only the one wire with the pulse on it goes to the ECU?