FerGloyale

Legacuy Forester Outback dossn't matter for clutch. it comes down to hydraulic clutch versus cable clutch. anything after like 99 is hydraulic so I doubt that is the issue. Forks break. Ussually replace with new. Welding is crap fix for emergency. Now if it has a Legacy trans, that would be way the wrong gear ratio for the Forester. I doubt you've had the wrong trans in all this time. My guess is improper bleeding of the clutch.

put the EJ251/3 pistons in the EJ259 block. throw a new set of rings on while yer at it. Use the EJ251 heads. done

Nothing in the ONSTAR SYSTEM WILL SET OF THE ALARM! You F-ed something else up, or the car is stolen and you don't have keys.

I've never needed to line bore the EJ case. Now, I've on;y done rebuilds on NA engines. They have all measured out within spec. I've done about 2 dozen full rebuilds of EJ22 and EJ25s. All of them are still running great. The one in my personal forester, has 60K plus miles on it now and still runs perfect. First I will ask, Do you have the pistons removed? That's the first step. Second, why don't you have the enigne on an engine stand. They are like $50 at harbor frieght. Go get one. DO NOT use impact on the case bolts. Impact socket have thick walls, and fit too tighly against the outside of the cylinder barrels. Then when the extension flexes under torque, it can crack or break the upper edge of the barrel. Strap or bolt the damn thing down, and use quality 12 point, 3/8th drive socket on a breaker bar. If you don't have the pistons out.......get them out now. The case will not come apart with them in, and it's wonky once the case is split and flopping in half. He can save a little money by disassmbly him self, then dropping of the block, crank, and rods at the machine shop to be measured, polished, and bored to round, respectively. then again, it is only about $2000 for a BRAND NEW subaru shortblock........that's really the best way to go.

I'm not sure that a EJ253 will fit between the frame rails. I know early EJ22 will fit (90-98) They barely clear, about 1/2" on the drivers side rear edge. EJ253 is wider, by about 3 in., so.....I don't think it will fit. I would look for an 90-98 Legacy donor with 2.2.

one of your front CV axles may be broken

I knew you were the man for this one.

No that's for EJ platform cars (Leg, Imp, For, etc)

PM me I do OBD II for $180 + shipping Will come with heat shrunk, weather proof Fusible link for main battery connection. All other wires will be labeled and long enough for you to route as you wish to IG., Fuel Pump, tach, speedo, CEL, Etc. * stripping harness only. If you can bring the car to Corvallis I can install harness for labor time rates.

No new progress on the rear suspension just yet. Planning, drawing, measuring...........metal fab to resume soon. IN the mean time, I've been cleaning 'em up. Hated teh red forester fenders, so painted them white. Then painted repainted lower portion of car green. Then went back over the lower with white using a few fern leaves from the back yard as a stencil. I'm gonna do the same on the hood but with black over green. IMG_3684 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3683 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3682 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3681 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3680 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Hopefully new tires and finalized rear suspension will be the next pics posted. Front five lug after that.

well, I've got XT6 knuckles. No Impreza ones. trying to keep the front e-brake of the xt6 setup. I will try to test fit those timken seals. thanks for the input.

what about early legacy (92) FWD knuckles/brackets?

Hey all. Got a question for the advanced swappers out there (numchux, I'm lookin at you) I want to go 5 lug on the front of my EA81 wheeler. It's already using EA82 front suspension/crossmember. My options are 1) Imp/Leg knuckles and brakes and Imp axles. This would work, but would leave me with rear e-brake as my only option. Which is fine, I'm running 01 outback suspension back there, so I COULD hook them up. But I've got Dual ebrake handles and cables already setup for Front ebrake. I run welded diff in rear, and use the front dual ebrake for "traction control" on the front in tippy situations. I'd like to not lose that. 2) XT6 knuckle and brakes with Impreza axle. But IIRC, there is a different inner wheel seal that needs to be utilized with this combo. So, question is basically what seal combo will I need to run the IMP axles in the Xt6 knuckles?

Do not think the Onstar unit is tied to the stereo or the alarm. Nothing in it's removal should have set the alarm. I've removed several. If the alarm is going off, It makes me wonder why you can't turn it off by cycling the key? Do you have a key? Why so resistant to the idea of a shop? Why would they refuse to look at it? Not accusing but just wondering, is there a more obvious reason the security system is alarming? like the car was stolen?

Mitsuboshi is best. NTN, NSK or Koyo for the rollers/tensioners. Paraut, Atsugi or other japanese make for water pump. You need to get inside and figure why it snapped. It's usually one of the idlers, tensioners, or the fault of excessive oil and coolant soaking from leaks. It's possible to do the bare minimum and get back on the road. My guess is the lower cogged roller seized. It's the most usual suspect for an otherwise decent looking belt to break. Full job would be Belts, Tensioners, Idler roller, Cam seals and Cam cap large O-rings, Crank Seal. Also Oil pump shaft seal, O-ring, and "mickey mouse" formed gasket.

blown out rear wheel cyl would be my guess.

Everybody always hopes "maybe it's the radiator." It almost never is. Can't tell you how many cars I've been brought for HG's that the owner say's, "yeah we just replaced the radiator x months ago." Don't try to do them in the car. Just as hard if not harder than pulling engine. It's possible, but way more likely to screw something up. If you aren't a pro-level mechanic, I can guarantee you that you'll end up doing one of three things in car 1) Scratch the hell outta block trying to finangle the heads in along the rail with the bolts already sticking through. 2) Drop, fold or damage the new HG's as you are making that same move. 3) Assuming 2 and 3 are avoided, you're likely to screw up the torque. It's impossible to make full 90 degree rotations with the handle of breaker/ratchet used to set the head bolts. It's not simply a torque procedure, there are specific rotations and to do it right in this case you need a torque wrench with a angle calculator. Doing them out of car, on an engine stand, gives you the best platform for doing a successful, long lasting job, the first try. Subaru engines are light and easy to handle in and out of the car.

Do you mean the hollow dowels around the top corner Head bolts? If so, 2 is fine. That is how they come from the factory. I have heard of high HP turbo builds using 4 or 6, but it isn't necessary for standard engines. 2 is how it's supposed to be. When I think of "piston pin" I am thinking of wrist pins. But those have nothing to do with the heads.

not any real negative impacts at all. If you have a 2.2 manifold with an EGR it is possible to "trick" the system by routing clean air from the air intake to the EGR port on the manifold. If your 2.2 has a non EGR manifold just plug and play and ignore the CEL. HOWEVER, Many counties in Wisconsin have Tailpipe tests and won't even test if the CEL is on. Make sure your friend lives in a county that doesn't test. OR Get him to test and fail twice, then write a receipt for over $800 spent trying to "fix it". After that it can have an exemption.

it's possible that someone has installed power adjustable mirrors. In that case it would be harder to move them, but still not impossible. I still guess that the ball socket that it pivots on is seized. Spray some penetrating oil liberally in behind the mirror mounting.

+1 Just 2 months ago replaced the uppipe in a Baja turbo. And your right about the cold side/hot side issue. Debris stops turbo from spinning well/blocks the pipe. This means the turbo doesn't spool. No chance it's gonna blow up or wear the shaft if doesn't spin. Worst case you have to replace the turbo with the uppipe. For this Baja recently I did not. Tiny bits of Cat material the made it into turbo chipped up and spit out. No detectable turbo damage. But hell, the turbos fail themselves all the time, and need replaced anyhow. Soooo..........

Nah, the 92 he references will have a standard 3at. On;y turbo cars got 4eat here. and there were no turbos after early 91

Yeah, it's known issue.

control arm rear pivot/bushing. or maybe sway bar link ends.

While GD's take may be a little uhhhh.....less than sympathetic.......I have to agree. #1) They aren't failing in massive numbers. The few I've seen didn't make the car undriveable. #2) Same design on years and years of WRXs, again pointing to a very low failure rate. #3)The car is 14 years old. Well out of any warranty. So it made it as far as they designed it to at least. To the OP. If you are really worried, put a Catless Uppipe in it. There really is no danger to that. it'll be fine. Relax and enjoy your car. Also, I don't think the NHTSA has any ability to do squat in India.