FerGloyale

Brats have only 2 doors Bajas have 4 doors. And a pass through from the bed to the cab.

yup. Idle should not change more than 100~200 Rpms between P and D

I leave it. LIved in Wisconsin for awhile. It's important to periodically get up in the wheelwell and clean off the lip. When I do that I pull the rubber off and clean it completely. Then push the rubber back on. Keeping road dust and salt from building up is the biggest factor.

Pretty easy to look at the bottom of the engine and check the gasket is correct. If it's not, the oil port in the headgasket will be kinda poking out the seam. Towards the back on Drivers side.

Dumn question but is there any chance you put the headgasket on backwards? Blocking the oil port? To rule this out, take the relief valve out of the head, and crank engine a little. See if oil comes out. If not, you blocked the port somehow. A leaking O-ring would still allow some oil, so if there is NONE, the port is blocked.

If you're current axles' shafts are still intact, you can replace the CV cups and joints with inner joints from EA82 or even 90-94 Legacy rear axles. Takes some spring clip pliers and a CV banding tool. BUt it's really the on;y option. This is why I am not wheeling my EA81 wagon right now. Can't find any new axles.

If it doesn't make a mess, why would you need to extend them? If oil didn't reach the valve cover ports, then how was it you had smoking on right turns? Boxers are particularly sensitive to needing proper venting of the crankcase. I would absolutely report you. Blocking the EGR or even gutting a catalytic is one thing, but dumping yer oil onto the ground when there is NO REASON ON EARTH to do so is just ignorant and destructive to the environment. This doesn't make me a snowflake. It makes me a citizen that cares about laws AND cares about the environment. It makes me smart and aware and you calling me names shows your ignorance, and false-entitlement to be a polluter for no reason. YOU just showed your true colors as a fool. 68 corolla? Okay, I read that wrong, but yeah, a 50 year old design is about right. That would be about the last time a gas engine was sold without a PCV setup. They created the PCV setup soon after and it's been working fine since. All of your "evidence" is anecdotal. You are clearly very young and cocksure. Like I said. "tweek" away bro. Live and learn. Gain some humility and perspective. Ive been driving Subarus longer than you've been on this earth. You came onto a Subaru board, started a post called "THE CLEANEST LOYALE EVER" A very bold, and completely laughable claim. You HAD a kinduv clean loyale, and then you bastardized it into a hack job. THEN, you bragged yer gonna put a Nissan motor in it? Did you think we would think that's cool? Just get a damn Nissan if you want a KA and rear wheel drive. You took away the 4wd and yer talking about taking away the boxer motor? Those are the 2 defining features of what makes subarus great. What was the response you were expecting? Should we all bow at your marvelous ability of removing perfectly functional system and hacking in problematic no-fixes? You are the one who named youself "monkeywrencher" Funny. That's a term for a tool that screws working stuff up. Appropriate.

It's too tall. The ER27 weighs about 350-400 lbs The KA24 weights about 650lbs. It's an iron block And it's too long. Whatever man like I said "tweek" away bro. Since all you've proven to be able to do is disable part on the car, I know for sure you won't get a KA24 in there. If you do, it will be total mess and the car will be ruined.

Well in my mind that is worse. Just dump yer oil on the ground eh? Honestly I'd report you if you lived here. Dumping oil on the ground is totally against dozens of laws and regulations. Thanks for being a self centered polluter rather than figure out what a proven and time tested way of dealing with the vapor is. OH WAIT! Subaru already figured it out but you think you are smarter than an entire auto industry convention that works in MILLIONS OF CARS around the world. You want to feel like you're doing something. But all you are really doing is taking away well engineered features and placebo-ing yourself into thinking you are "improving" stuff. All at the expense of the environment. As for the 86 corrola. No. By definition the PCV cannot "dump to atmosphere. It means Positive Crankcase Ventilation. Venting to atmosphere would be passive ventilation. And I can guarantee that would not have been the stock setup on an 86 corolla. I don't think you understand how a PCV system works. You should put down the cutters and welder and pick up a book. This is by far NOT the cleanest loyale ever. But one of the more hacked up I've seen for sure.

yeah If you put in subframe spacers you need to swap to the Forester bushings. Otherwise you are moving the 2 control arm pivots out of line with each other.

And way worse for the engine too! You're engine bay is gonna be an oily nasty mess really quickly.

No I meant the rear lateral or transverse links. The actual steel link not the end bushings. Thought that's what you were talking about. I would call that part a control arm bushing or mount. At any rate. You need the Impreza/Legacy one unless you also want to ALSO install the Forrester crossmember spacers (antilift kit?, not familiar with teh term) And also a Forester Steering coupler. Maybe need longer lower rad hose and extended (forester?) Dogbone mount ( pitch stopper) You;d lose ground clearance, so unleess you are having issues I'd just replace the bushings. I will actually be removing the spacers and switching to Imp bushings and coupler in my Forester for a "tummy tuck" very soon.

They are the same maybe a different sway bar mount bracket but they are the same length Forrester v. Impreza

And way too tall and heavy to fit in the loyale. MAYBE if you used an entire Nissan front suspension. Maybe. Will NOT fit in the loyale with it's stock crossmember/suspension. Doesn't matter because obvious by the Redneckeery goin on in this thread, you will never swap in anything. Great job F-in up a car that's lasted in really nice condition for years. EGR lowers cyl temperatures. If you understood it, you'd have known it wasn't necessary to weld the intake side of that pipe if you've blocked off the port with the beer can. PCV removes corrosive gasses from the engine oil Hillholders are awesome. Only annoying to those who can't figure out how to use them. Coolant Temp sensor is possibly one of the MOST important sensor to making the car run right. You left the D-check connectors, but cut out the white, U-check connector that ACTUALLY IS THE PAIR THAT OUTPUTS STORED CODES!!! And now you won't be able to use the "clear memory" either. That requires BOTH sets of connectors. The 4wd transfer cannot handle 90hp in RWD for long, let alone 200hp. Guaranty you break it within 3 months. Especially if yer trying to "drift" That car will not start in the winter. It will probably be ruined by then anyhow. Oh wait, never mind, it's already ruined. But it's yer car so "tweek" on it all you want.

What you are seeing is the ground wire for that socket is not connecting well to the bulb. With just the amps of a single, low watt filament being pulled, it cn complete the path (tail light works) But then when you ask it to conduct the amps of BOTH filaments pulling, it fails (both lights go out) usually pulling the socket apart, and cleaning the tab that grounds the bulb to the wire, is sufficient. Sometimes bending that contact tab out a hair does the trick. I wouldn't replace the socket unless it's very rusty.

no need to alter the angle of the radiator outlet. I've got an 8" lift and I'm running the stock radiator. I simply use flex hoses that have 1-1/2" on one end and 1-1/4" on the other.

you'll have to pull the engine to get to the #4 wrist pin. But if you go that route, it's not hard to replace pistons/rings.

doesn't sound like your issue. (think you nailed yours) But I have seen trouble from the Park/Brake pedal interlock solenoids too. It's a solenoid under the shifter that pulls the locking pin out of the way. It on;y activates when foot is on the brake pedal. This prevents accidental bumping out of P. Problem is people spill sodas and lattes down there, and then solenoid gets sticky and doesn't want to operate. Sometimes repeated pushing of the brake pedal will eventually give it enough to go. But when they fail, you have to use a stick or screwdriver to manual press the interlock. Or, remove the solenoid and never have the problem again. Not recommended for those with dogs and/or kids. Similarly, there is a solenoid in the Ignition (key) that prevents taking the key out, until the shifter is in P. Seen that fail once. Fixed it by disconnecting it electrically and ziptie it's tab out of the way. Not as much of a safeety issue, just keeps you from taking key until car is in park so defeating that system isn't as risky.

yeah i was talking about the duralast wires. garbage

My vote would be leave the S/R in the XT. If you really need lower gears get a 3.9 pushbutton from a loyale and a 3.9 rear diff. But then you'd lose the close ratio gears of the 3.7 XT box. So not much to be gained really. There is no good place for the D/R shifter in the XT. no place at all really. You'd have to mutilate the center console, and the D/R shifter won't bolt to the XT shifter plate so you'd swap that too. And you'd lose the awesome pushbutton shifter 4wd. lol And if it's gonna be lowered, why the heck would you need the D/R? As for strength, they are essentially the same trans. Although the S/R is a tad lighter, and has a one piece input shaft. Arguably less to fail.

Right. With engine off, the upper shaft is not spinning at all.

actually, 2wd rear shocks will RAISE the back of an EA82 4wd car. The mounting point on the trailing arm is further up, above the axle, on 4wd cars. The 2wd shocks are longer, not shorter. Bad thing is that they will jack the rear end WAAAY up int he air compared to the front. And although they are longer, they have shorter travel by about 3/4"

It will not create any damage. As long as you have the type with 3 U-joints. You can unbolt it at the flange in the middle. If you have a driveline with a CV type middle joint, you cannot separate it in the middle like that.

Personally, I've decided 2" is too much without a crossmember drop. Even stock axles hit the frame at that height and it leaves you with zero "droop" or downtravel. Makes for a tippy front end wheeling. Drop the crossmember 1~2" and you won't have problems.

Unless you have reason to suspect an injector has failed, it's not really necessary. Not on an N/A car anyhow. They very rarely fail. "rebuilt" likely just means cleaned and flow tested. I doubt the coils and needle valves are serviced/replaced. So basically run some fuel cleaner through it and you've done the same thing and saved $95.