FerGloyale

i've had to start buying Sachs struts for EA81 cars.

Garbage

check that the bypass valves cable is moving properly. It's above the gas pedal. If it's not opening, the warm coolant is bypassing the heater core.

It's a good guess. It does happen. It could be the case. But in this case, since he says it's better if not gone after warming up, I think it may be a fluid issue. Cracked fork wouldn't work better warm. Air bubbles in Clutch slave wouldn't go away after driving. Unless their failure was so slight, that normal drag from cold gear oil would be too much and push it over the edge of not shifting (input shaft still spinning too fast, even with clutch in) definately should inspect the clutch fork, and slave, just to rule things out.

87 will have the Hitachi. "walker" make a kit with teh correct parts. FWIW, it's not nessecary to really replace everything in the carb. Just pull and blow out the emulsion tubes, and replace the tiny o-rings that seal the air horns to the venturi passages. Maybe pull the drain plugs ont eh bowl and clean the bowl out too.

Not unless you are putting a 5 spd in it. And even then it can be just an EA82 4wd clutch, not an ER27 (xt6) Most parts companies have superceeded to the same part for both applications now anyways. If you are using the 4spd, just keep all yer 4 spd clutch stuff. Get a redrilled 4-spd flywheel. You also don't need a nissan 720 throw out bearing. That is for using a 4 spd clutch with the 5 spd trans IIRC

some have a screw on in the inner drivers side fender. In the cooler lines. If it doesn't, don't worry about pulling the "filter" in the trans. It's not a filter, it's pickup screen. And they really never clog. They have a huge surface area. What you are describing doesn't seem trans related. anyhow. Stumbling indicates a misfire. Either a spark or timing issue. FWIW, you have an ECU that thinks there is a bit more power available at low rpms. It may be that when cold it's just hesitating to give you the downshift because it thinks that what it's doing should be "enough". Which it would be with the 2.5, but not with the -30 hp of the 2.2 I know my 2.2 swapped forester has a "sluggish" spot when cold. However mine does not sputter. Again, sputtering, stumbling, is a misfire. What brand of Spark plugs and wires did you use?

Those aren't USDM models really. We didn't get "GT" or "Ti" or "GX" in US market. not in any first gen Legs. Pretty sure in the US the "alpine sport" started in late 92, maybe as a 93 model. Definatley 93 and 94.

I've never had a problem in my EA81 wheeler. Stock tank, EJ22 on 93 managment. Walbro 255. Never had any stalling or bucking, ever. I know why you'd need baffles in theory, but in reality I've never observed a problem in 10+ years wheeling that car. Of course, I ussually have more than a 1/2 tank if I'm in the woods.

if you can fab, it's really not a hard thing. The bumper coming off isn't that hard. Just intimidating. Buy a clip tool and it's easy.

90/91 Legacy LS or LSi Most of these had sunroofs. They had more luxurious Tan interior (vs. blue or gray on L models of same exterior color) Some had Air Suspension. "alpine sport" introduced in 92, similar options, but a double slotted grill in body color. Rounded, softened front end with turn signals in teh corners instead of the bumper.

Change the spark plugs. NGK v- power is fine and cheap. DO NOT USE BOSCH Check that you have the PCV and IAC hoses correct, and all intake boot clamps are tight. If problem persists, change spark plug wires (NGK) and possibly try another known good coil. FWIW, the high pitched whine at full throttle as RPMs build is normal. It's a result of the shape of the intake snorkus. The accordion shape of the tube acts like an Elk Bugle, lol.

You certainly can flat tow a manual trans subaru. But, IMO, you are gonna put more work into fabbing something safe than you will spend on a 35 mile tow. Can't be more than about $150~200. Unless you plan on towing it ALOT, I don't think it's worth it to make a tow bar. You would really need to attach to not on;y the tow hooks but a "stay" at the bumper lever too. Have to take the cover off to fab something proper. Or buy a kit, which I'm sure is sold, but that's expensive...more than a tow. 05 outback and '10 WRX are nothing alike in the frames. You'd need to build it onto the WRX directly. IIRC, bumper clips are not that expensive....maybe $40 for all of them if you broke every one. Buy them aftermarket on EBay and they are even cheaper...way cheaper.

Was the fluid changed when the clutch was done? (trans fluid) If so they may have put a too thick, conventional oil in it. Try running a thinner, full synthetic trans oil.

You don't need a Xt6 crossmember. That's for putting an EJ trans into an EA82, and isn't really needed. Flatbar makes for an easy custom made one. But that's in EA82 cars with an EJ trans......not applicable here. You only need the 720 throw out if you are using an EA82 flywheel and clutch. Since you aren't changing the 4-spd apparently, you don't need those. You DO need a 4 spd flywheel that's been redrilled. or.......Some people say you can use the 5 spd flywheel with the 4spd, I've never thought that to be a good idea. starter will barely catch the teeth on the flywheel. Don't need a heat sensor either. EJ ECU will do a fine job of controlling the electric fans via relay. EA high pressure fuel pump will have to come from an fuel injected EA car like late GL or Loyale (or xt or xt6) But honestly it's easier and more reliable to just buy a new pump. Walbro 255 works for my swaps.

Subaru sells a 78, 80 or 82 degree thermostat. That's Celsius. conversion works out to 172.4, 176, and 179.6 in Fahrenheit.

As far as I know they started them on the EJ25D. Subarus first Interference engine. So I think they wanted to make sure it wouldn't jump. I see lots of early engines without them. Some the oil pump still has the holes, others they aren't there. It's just that Manual trans the engine is much more likely to go from fully loaded pulling hard to 5500 rpms or more, then suddenly off throttle, no load, for a shift. In an automatic, the engine isn't as likely to see high RPMs. And when it does, the torque converter and shift solenoids drop the RPMs while keeping the load on the engine fairly steady.

It keeps the belt from being able to jump teeth either during backwards roll, or high RPM, sudden off throttle for shift or engine braking.

+1 I'll bet it's got a paper gasket. That could be the failure too. I'd replace that whole timing belt setup

if that is the engine with the spun sleeves forget it. It's junk. probably not even in round anymore.

there are 2 separate circuits in the brake system. 1 cicuit goes out of the master out of 2 ports near each other, 1 line to pass front, 1 line to driver rear. The other circuit, comes out of a single port as one line, then splits going through the hill holder. The lines through the firewall are just the "out" lines to the proportioning valve, then on to the rear wheels. they don't come back up front.

you can remove the hill holder, but you must replace it with a "T" The brakes for Front left and rear right go through it. If you simply plug it off you will have no brakes at those 2 wheels. As for Vac lines......yeah......uh many have little "orifice" restrictors in them, so don't just toss them willy nilly. Best diagrams sare from the 86 FSM. Though when the 87s came out there were a couple changes.....and they were never noted in the 87 books.....Carbs were being phased out so they barely even mention the carb system in the 87 FSM. There was big corporate restructuring at that time too.....so 87 is a goofy year for a lot of stuff. Many of the Vac lines are not needed. Can you post any pics? we can maybe direct you to what needs to stay and what needs to go.

Yup. It's gotta be a problem with one of the step motors that controls the air doors that direct hot air. you'd really need a good diagram of the system on your car. then you could identify which door and motor would be responsible for directing air to the pass side. Could be a disconnected linkage, or could be a dead stepper motor. So glad my 98 Forester uses cables for all that.

No you can reuse your springs. About 2" lift. Rear trailing arm bracket isn't necessary. But it's easy and does help keep alignment and wheel centered in the well.

you will want Legacy Outback struts not Forrester. Especially for the rear. Forester frmaes are different, made so the mounts are lower, and they use a shorter sturt with less clearance at the spring perch. Rears you want are KYB 335020/021 Fronts you need KYB 235632/633