FerGloyale

It's been done. works fine. gotta enlarge the holes.

Does it have Keyless entry? Was the battery disconnected? Sometimes after dead battery or battery disconnect, you need to press the "set" button on for the keyleess/alarm system, or else the lights will stay on flashing, but not constant. Look up under there, if it's a non-Subaru alarm setup theat could be an issue too. If it has one of those....find the fuses for it and pull them......they'll be in the wiring bundle for that system most likely.

My bet is something has physically bridged the switch circuit in the steering column. I'd remove the covers and inspect the area. On;y other possibility I see is maybe if the column was removed or messed with, and some wires got pinched together upon reinstall. When/how did this situation first present itself?

IIRC, later Legacy and Outbacks have CVT trans....not 5at Hate to tell ya but the 4 spd auto in that Nissan is almost the same trans in terms of guts and valve body. Jatco 4AT The 5AT, even if it could be swapped in, would not be significantly better in any real way. If you need more responsiveness, just use "sport" mode and select your gear manually. Or, get a slightly newer model with the CVT, and use the paddle shifters and the 8 "gear" selections it yields.

Looks like you drilled it out too big to make threads. Might need to helicoil that m6 X1.00 threads

You won't be able to "plug" the old holes. Hub is Cast. Unless you've got some really bad rump roast TiG skills and proper Machine and Gases. And then it's still iffy. I don't think there is room on the back side for the heads of the stud. you'd have to remove material back there too, and THAT would be the weakening......I would be afraid of the hub cracking if it was turned too far down. Honestly you'd be better of with adapters, which are available. Just get the thinnest one you can and it won't hurt the wheel bearings really. What kind of wheel/tire do you want to put on there?

Probably need a new CAT I don't even know if it has one? If it does, it's the 25 year old one from the Impreza. No DEQ (SMOG) at all here in my part of Oregon, so we never cared about it. You could try a new set of NGK plugs, and a tank of Premium with some Lucas injector cleaner in. Then take it for a rippin hot, hard run up some hills right before you go to the test. Get that CAT hot. CTS is easy to swap, could be part of it but If it's not throwing a code it's probably fine. Then again that could be part of the no start that the previous owner thought was an FP issue.

I don't know. Everyones gotta start somewhere. It was a PITA, but my first subaru full engine rebuild was "successful" The engine is still running great in an EJ'd EA81 wheeler with lift and 30"s after 11 years now. The only big, weird, task in splitting the block is removing/installing wrist pins. That takes some experience to make go smoothly, but it's not magic. It doesn't require an ASE cert or an Engineering degree. Mostly it just requires a good work table in a clean shop and a slide hammer. I use a battery hold down "j" bolt with the end modified to make a hook to grab the pins and attached it to my slide hammer. Everything else is just simple bolts and a ring compressor to reinstall the pistons. But for sure......Bearings cannot be changed on an EJ(or EA) motor without splitting the cases.

you don't need the drivelines. Subaru drivelines slip in, and use the same output hubs. They are gonna have to be custom lengths anyhow. So just take a few old Subaru drivelins to the driveline shop nad heave them made to length. Nissan T-case shifter is a simple slip on lever. Could be made of anything. Mounts that are on the nissan trucks are awkward to fit in a subaru...make your own. All you need is the actual t-case. I've got several I've collected over the years. They are easy to rebuild with cheap bearings. Unfortunately, the upper bearing is usually shot. Because it only gets oil after the diff starts rolling. So every time you start up and drive, the first 100 ft or so there is no oil to the upper bearing. Even in 2wd. They basically are a "lucas" additive display in terms of oiling. 3 gears stacked vertically with oil at the bottom. It's gotta ladder up to the upper bearing. When I put one in my wheeler, I am adding an "oiler" port to the top where the vent is. So I can put a teaspoon of oil down there before driving after long sitting periods.

Did you lengthen the links all equal amounts? Or is it proportional to the difference in stock lengths? The reason I ask is my own experience recently trying to lengthen just one link.....alot. What I discovered in researching why it was throwing off my toe as it traveled, is that the ratio of the difference in length of the 3 links, is proportional to the distance from the pivot for the trailing arm. If you made all links say an inch longer, then you have changed the ratio. If we call the rear link the %100 percent mark, then the upper link, being attached at about %80 of the trailing arms total length....hence the upper link is about %80 of the length of the rear lower. And the forward lower, being on;y about %50 of the distance from the trailing pivot, hence the lower link is %50 percent of the length of the rear lower arm. Now, these number are estimates.....I haven't actually measured exactly the stock setup.......and there may be a few other variables such as inner pivot locations changing angles. But the basic concept is that since the knuckle moves in an arc (not up and down like the 99 with it's own pivot at the knuckle, and equal length parallel arms) Then the arms CANNOT be equal length......they must be proportional to the amount of travel they make depending on where on the trailing arm they pivot. Maybe not enough to matter.....but you should examine the toe change carefully, or you may find that you eat tires, and worse yet, you may have "ghost walk" effect in the snow, especially on bumpy roads. I will be moving my links back to the stock length for now. But if your mods work well, I may duplicate them. Keep up the fantastic work.

Yes. And you can't get to them anyway.

You figured it out. It's a roll pin. You just drive it out with a punch and the shift knob lifts up off the shaft.

Coolant hose that goes from IAC to throttle body. If you ran the a hose directly from the crossover pipe to the throttle body you won't need this. Although then your IAC won't see the warmed up coolant, may high idle longer than ussual

he's got a Manual. It's a Double Throw switch. 3 wires. 12v+ on one wire. Other 2 are each for one of the 2 solenoids. 12v in on one wire.....then out on a second wire to solenoid for 2wd when button up. Press button down and now 12v+ passes to the other wire for solenoid to 4wd.

3k on the freeway is not "high RPMS" for this motor. It is made for it. redline is 6500. Cruising between 3k and 4k is not a big deal. If you really wanted, this would be the way to do it. Get a 3.9 trans and rear diff from a standard Legacy (non-outback) AND ALSO add the taller 5th gearset from a 04 Forester XT 5-spd (can be ordered from subaru) That would drop the freeway RPMs signifigantly.........But then your 1st gear would be taller so not as good for hills and snow. You could just add the tall 5th gearset to the 4.11 trans you have. But really, it's not needed. These engines run just fine at 3k to 4k all day long. Just make sure it's got a good timing belt set on it.

This kit is better product I think. https://www.walmart.com/ip/3M-Auto-Advanced-Headlight-Restoration-System/13023890?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227009544146&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40838676752&wl4=pla-78652144592&wl5=9033024&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=13023890&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoYeW9Nzw4AIVpx-tBh1dxAX9EAQYAyABEgLZI_D_BwE Better sanding disc, more stages of grit I think (500, 800, 1500, polish pad) And doesn't require the "coating" which I have seen react weirdly and cause a "crackled" look on the surface after just a short time. Well polished plastic doesn't need to be "sealed" They just put that crap in the kit to give a finished ""wet" look and hide scratches from inadequate polishing. I used to facet glass and stones, so I know a bit about abrasives and polishing.

This splice is the OE A/C fan relay signal now controls the new relay in the "floating" block As for fan runing with key off., I am guessing someone grounded the ECU's signal wire. You need to confirm that the "trigger" wire (which is the ground side) for the relays is A) not grounded out. B ) actually connected to the signal wire from the ECU. ECU is from 93 Impreza......I will see if I can find pinouts and wire colors

Sounds like fan wiring. I think I may have run a wire to add a switch for fan "on" inside the cab. Might be the purple to nowhere? The gray?.....Does it connect to the yellow wire at the A/C relay block? (passenger strut tower area) That would to trigger on the Factory elec fan (pass side fan) It's been a long time. Too bad the diagram I made got lost. Pics would help me figure some stuff out.

It physically fits. However, I believe the pinouts of hte dash connectors changed just a bit. Can't remember what but it's couple wires. It could certainly be worked out with some splicing/repining. I'd need to compare FSMs to tell ya for sure. Does the 93 loyale Dash even have a Oil pressure or Volt gauge?

U-joints

93 loyale dash won't work in an 85. Wiring changes. very small, but they are there. you need and 85 or 86 only.

IIRC both the DCCD 6MT AND "VDC" type automatics use a planetary set rather than a spider/pinion differential (or wet clutch pack) Locking/unlocking of the sun gears is how the transfer is changed to be ACTIVELY MORE power to one end vs. the other. these are the only trans Capable of transfering MORE to the rear than the front.

ME > "FACEPALM" That's not how it works. That's not how any of this works.

I do not. It is purely mechanical differential and can ONLY ever transfer a 50/50 split. viscous coupler is a mechanical device. I've held them in my hand numerous times, replaced them etc....I know what they are, and what they aren't. And what they are not is a variable torque distrubution device in any conventional sense. they are a LIMITED SLIP, not a locker and not capable of transfering any more or any less power than the balance of traction on the ground allows. The viscous coupler only works to limit some power LOSS, not to add any MORE bias to the front or rear when all 4 wheels are on the ground. When you loose traction it's more like 95/05 % split to whichever wheel gas least. Regardless of front or rear. DOES NOT MATTER THE MODEL if we are talking 5mts with the 1:1 transfer gears. it's "limited slip" abilities are negligable. it's a mechanical open diff and yes the fwd slot on your car is vestigial.

Regarding TPS, I was abe to mount the Flapper, 3 wire TPS onto the spider Throttle body by removing the cover from the TPS, drilling a hole to allow throttle shaft to pass through what was the "top", and used long screws and standouts to mount the 3 wire TPS "upside down" on the body. Wish I still had pics but photobucket, ya know. Still haven't heard from Ausbert, is this car a current Flapper, or Hotwire Maf? (early v. late)