FerGloyale

it's only on AUTOMATIC trans cars. those use a hydraulic transfer clutch. the have a TCU the manuals have a purely mechanical, non-electronic, differential that is essentially open. Bad translation or wishful thinking. The viscous center cannot "lock" it does transfer some force to the non-slipping end when opposite end slips (wheelspin)......but cannot "lock" And if you have a no traction situation for just one wheel, all the force will go there. the viscous unit cannot transfer anywhere near full force when one wheel has no traction, to drive out of a ditch or sunken in snow. It does not "lock" It's also again not electric and there is no FWD mode or fuse or TCU.

No. Not for 5 spd manual trans. They are purely mechanical. There is no mechanism for altering the split. It's 50/50 all the time unless one wheel loses traction, then that wheel get's 100% Look up mechanical AWD and how it works. There were a few WRX's like I said with other than 1:1 transfer ratios, and different front/rear diff ratios because of it. But those cars still use a mechanical differential which can only send power to the path of least resistance...there is no way to give front or back "more" power thatn the other.....it's a rotational see-saw.....all about balance of forces on either side of the diff.

The loyale also has an "oil" light in the panel to the left of the steering column. When I do swaps on later Loyales or DL's with no gauge, I route the wire to the light. Could be done on this car too.......I just got used to seeing the "zero" reading as a normal. Those things suck. Leaks waiting to happen. Shifts when you go to spin off the old filter. Blah....Better to use a extension

???? Getting confused. First let's address, when we say the "center diff" ratio we are actually talking about transfer ration Front v. Rear. Not actually the diff but the transfer gear set behind it. There were some models that have "odd" transfer ratios in the trans ...some WRX's....1.1:1 or something.......so those models have 3.7 front diff and 3.54 rear for example You did not ask about FXT ratios, you just said "forester" and NA foresters have 4.11 manuals, and 4.44 automatics. TURBO forester yes will be 4.44 front diff and with 1:1 "transfer" front vs. rear......so rear diff is 4.44 also. JDM options are an unknown too......it's not always clear what they did or didn't get over there.

JDM SOHC 2.0 is essentially the same as a 2.2. Will run on same management. just need a physically matching manifold to bolt to which ever head type. Still may be differences in Phase I (small heads) and phase II (large SOHC heads, shared with 2.5 SOHC) 2001 Imp harness will work, but you will be missing Fuel temp, fuel pressure, Vent control etc..... Earlier management is easier to make a complete "no CEL" swap. 96 OBW management is pretty much the sweet spot.

Yes that is normal. It means you do in fact have oil pressure. It's because EJ engines don't use a sender, they just have a oil light switch. Closed at zero pressure and open (light off) with engine running with oil pressure present. What you are seeing is basically an oil light "on" during key on/eng off. Spiked gauge. Then when you start car, oil pressure starts and turns "off" the light......or in this case the gauge.......goes to zero. Some have adapted senders into their swaps but it involves some sort of extension/relocation of the sender since it doesn't fit under the ALT. I've just gotten used to the setup with my swaps where if the oil gauge is anywhere OTHER than zero while driving you've got an issue.

Early ones like you need have a long lead on them. Crank about 12" long, Cam about 24" long. They connect at the rear of the engine above bellhousing. From 95 on they are all the same up to 2009-ish or Whenever the EJ series ended (way later for tubos) And those have no wire lead, just connector right on the unit. Electronically they are all the same. You can even use a Crank sensor as a cam sensor if needed, although not the other way around, as the CAM sensor is large diameter and won't physically fit int eh Crank mounting hole. I suppose you could adapt the new style and just add an "adapter" pigtail. Just a simple pickup coil....the 2 wires in/out don't matter position, and the 3rd wire int eh old style is just a grounded sheild around the other 2.

So no fuel pump issue?

it's actually causing toe in during compression. The sweet spot where it all lines up is about mid travel. (estimated numbers for example purposes ahead) At full compression, the rear arm has swung say 20 Deg. arc about 3 inches vertically. The forward arm only swings 10 deg. and 1.5" vertically. So 2 equal length arms that travel 2 different amounts of their arcs have the moving end shifting horizontally at different amounts. The Rear arm travels more "outward" when compressed. Conversely, when the full droop happens, the rear arm pulls the back of the knuckle inward. All of that motion is also fighting the trailing arm front bushing trying to force the front of the arms around to accommodate the odd link travel. I expect that going back to the short links or maybe just some shorter than they currently are links will work just fine.

Teh cat itself should have a sheild but nothing beyond that.

The lengthened lnk is not going to work. Since the trailing arm swings in an arc, the link at the rear swings through more of it's range than the forward lower link. So the lateral shift of each link can never match. Constantly changing toe. Pretty drastic actually. The car was SCArY to derive over 35~40 mph. DO NOT LENGTHEN JUST THE LOWER LINK. I will be welding back in mounts for the OE short links an report back. I do love the increased rear diff clearance and weight carrying though.

Are you trying to fit it into a Hotwire MAF or a Flapper? If it's hot wire MAF car then you should be golden. Extend a few wires here and there and swap 2 connectors on the tps. (flat has 2 connectors for TPS, 5 wires, but 2 of them are ground so really just 4 wires, spider TPS is four pins all in one connector) I think Extend CTS wires too. If your car is flapper maf......you've got more of a challenge. Far as I know they never had intercoolers, just an elbow from turbo to throttle.

2 notes here. 1) EA82 TURBO axles are 25 spline and will fit any EA82 car with any 25 spine trans (EA82 turbo or EJ AWD) 2) No adapter plate, and no shifter/driveline/crossmember mods needed if you do one simple, complex thing. Swap the Loyale S/R 4wd trans guts and tailsection into Early EJ AWD 5spd cases. All you need is a dead EJ box (preferably not spun bearing) and some time and the Right Stuff sealant. good time to install 4 new seals in the trans. Use EJ flywheel and Clutch. And last note, yeah a turbo is really too much trouble........unless you got time and money a plenty and don't care about spending. EJ18 or 22 swap from 90's Legs and Imps cars are plenty for the EA body.

cool. PM me I'm about 5 miles south of Philomath. Check the Fuel Pump relay. It should be either in the glove box with ECU or just to the left of the heater box above Gas pedal. The IG. and FP relays should be on a bracket together. FP is Green connector. I can't remember if I ran new wire to pump or tagged the EJs FP relay outpput into the stock EA82 FP relay connector. (that one is above column) look for hte bare 4 pole green connector. Maybe the output wire just got tugged out. When you get it running yer gonna be stoked. That car is sweet. I've got a set of Chrome Nissan 14" rims that look sweet on it if you want em (redrills)

The relay block behind the battery is attached to the tower with a 6mm bolt. (through one of the relays that has a tab) Alternator connections are insulated, the main lug is missing it's rubber cover, but it's not touching anything. The relay block in the spare tire well was attached better int he past......Someone has cut/moved the Zipties that held it. It's pulled the Vac lines for the 4wd solenoids. Someone must have messed with that. Maybe tried to put the spare tire in there? The headlight bundle is very high quality, abrasion resistant, High temp rated, oil impervious wire. It's bundled to itself so it's fairly stiff. It isn't going to rub through. It isn't going to melt. It's the wiring we used to run our Vegtable oil/Diesel conversions at the old diesel shop. We never ran it in loom because it hinders troubleshooting later. Never had a rub through except once at sharp edge on a Cummins. That saw alot of vibration.......this GL isn't goin to vibrate like that. The fact that it's all there and looks to be intact after 5 years points to it being acceptable for more than a "test drive" But I get it. Some folks need their laundry to be folded and put in drawers. Me? I might do that sometimes but if I leave it in the basket it's easier to see what I've got to wear!

IMG_3551 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3550 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Hey I'll pick you up at the airport buddy just tell me when.

I was going for "aircraft style" i.e. wires bundled, but not hidden or wrapped in conduit. Makes troubleshooting easy, and saves weight lol As to wanting it back.....nah. Too much old juju there. Glad to see it rockin on into the future. Non-interference, Simple OBD i EFI, bomb proof, 118hp EJ18 and true 4wd with EJ clutch options! I built it thinking it would be serviceable until at least 2030, if we can get Guziline that long anyhow. But for someone ELSE. I would work on it maybe but don't want to own it no mo. Oh yeah new axles and obviously new timing and WP when engine went in.

Dude that car got all new in '14: New Koyo Front wheel bearings + seals - both sides New Koyo Rear wheel bearings+ seals - both sides New Front struts - KYB New Rear struts - KYB New brakes 4 corners (surfaced rotors, ceramic pads, new shoes?) pretty sure it's disc swapped from the 88 turbo, maybe not. New OE balljoints front, both New OE inner and outer tie-rods, both sides New trans input seal(OE) New trans Side output seals (OE) New trans rear output seal (OE) New O2 sensor GL-10 Adjustable height seats from 88 turbo New clutch Trailer hitch I built....pretty sure on that car. We did the works on that car.

Man, I made her a custom wiring diagram showing the stock EA and merged EJ wiring. And one for the A/C too. Laminated those MF's She never appreciated the car. Sold it for a beat rump roast needing tranny Forester. Good ridance to her. After she left me I met hte love of my life, my wife and partner for REAL Glad to see the car still rocking out there. That is a strong 1.8, only had 130k on it. I resealed it with new HGs and new piston rings before I installed it. lWait......now that I'm thinkin back......I feel like I pulled taht 1.8 and put a 2.2 in there just before we split.......Check the block stamp.

The Original compressors are getting pretty tired. though they can be resealed...but if the walls of the cyl are scoured it's done for. The five way drier/splitter is the part that's hardest to retrofit. I've got piles of that crap. Anyone who want's my stash of Compressors, Relays, Air struts, Computers, and lines can have it ALL if they come get it.

Well this IMp engine and harness are 93. Not OBD II But I did leave teh "Check" connectors.......they are accesible in the glove box by the ECU. The ones in the engine bay are useless now. Funny someone plugged them in, lol

There is nothing "sketchy" about the wiring. It's all non-insul crimped with glue sealed heat shrink. If you need anything hit me up. That was a clean swap and should not have ANY wiring issues other than the A/C compressor has had that wiring tugged on but even still it just needs a zip tie. ECU and A/C relay are in the glove box.

Hey that's my SWAP! I did that swap for my Ex-girlfriend back in '14 or so. She sold it back in late '15. They gal who bought it called me once (from Lebanon, OR) So the story has gotten mixed up, cause I built it for my GF and then she sold it presumably to the gal you got it from. It's an EJ18 from an 93 Impreza. I did do a custom low line for the AC. Someones screwed with my wiring a bit. but all in all the A/C worked fine. The large bundle across the engine is Headlamp relay setup. No need for conduit. It's been that way for 5 years, it's fine. It has the Stock 5spd 4wd S/R, but it's in EJ cases so no adapter plate. If you need a clutch use a clutch for an Impreza

you want the exhaust to hit before the back of the trans does. Mine looks just like that basically. I just used heavy wall pipe for that section so it doesn't smash. Make sure you have the mount at the back of the trans to exhaust secure. Otherwise the force of hitting that pipe can leverage the studs out of the heads.