FerGloyale

Awesome! love seeing the working 3rd eye lamps working. Glad I saved those crude drawings from so long ago or I'd have forgotten it all by now.

No. Not with stock parts. D/R Locking diff boxes like this in 3.7 in the RX only. I suppose there is the 3.9 Fulltime single range box from XT6....you could use that R+P. But you'd also need to swap the entire lower gear/synchro set from the 3.7 box onto the pinion shaft (Different ratios for 2-5, and second is cast into upper shaft pf D/R so you gotta keep the gears that match it) so now you need 3 boxes to make one, and 2 of those are already rare as hens teeth to find. Perhaps a custom pinion could be welded up on a lathe?

did you lose the washer that goes between the strut top and the mount? it's about 30mm in diameter, maybe 4mm thick with a taper to one side (taper side goes up) This washer is what ride on the bearing inner hub and allows pivot for turning.

Swap the green and Green/white wires

Does the motor run continuos? or just to open?

Fulltime w/difflock swap is exactly the same as regular EA 5spd d/r swap. with the exception that you need to add switching solenoids in addition to the d/r lever hookup. Easy, use Single range pushbutton solenoids and spdt switch. It is possible to put the 1.59 reduction into the FT box. Good chance to put the 23 spline stubs in the front diff, casue there isn't an easy option for 25 spline axles in the Brat (unless you got EA82 front) It is NOT possible (to my knowledge) to swap the final drive to 3.9 or 4.11, as there was never a correct pinion shaft in that ratio for the FT4wd box. So you'd end up with tall first gear. Funny thing is those boxes have LOWER ratio 2nd through 5th. So it offsets the 3.7 ratio a little bit.

These engines you cannot acces the rod bearings unless you split the case halves. Cannot be done in car. These engines don't have (lifters) the rockers ride directly on the cams, and they are manually adjustable for clearance. no hydraulics. Honestly unless you want to throw money at it, I'd keep driving until it makes some worse signal of what the problem is. compatible engines can be found in 2000-2004 outbacks and 99-2005 Foresters and Imprezas w/2.5

sure you've got an 87a relay and not Double pole 87 ? How is the lamp powered? Does it go one and off with the switch?

Close, but definitely different. EJ20G has larger valves with sodium filled stems. Also larger buckets and shims. In an EJ body car, I say go for GD's solid advise. But in an older EA body, it just get's alot harder to fit the damn thing in there so the small EJ22e heads are the easy choice.

Yes. The "close" wire, Green/white, should go to the normally closed, or 87a terminal. Green wire should get power from 87 terminal when relay is activated by dash switch.

Fans will run when the ECU sees a temp sensor fault. It's traingular. Check that you have the tab in the correct position. Beyond that return it and get a new one. Try a napa higher end brand. It will likely be an OE sensor in a branded box for less money.

If this is a manual trans then yes that would need to happen. helicoil and Stud set in trans bell.

Hey! That was you! I had kinda forgot and jumbled up names since I left the board for a while. Printer works awesome. Used that harness yet?

More pics of progress. First heres a few shots of the finalized shock brackets. They are a bit ugly. Built from random drops of steel pieces around the shop, so there is some odd edges and stuff I didn't bother trying to cut/grind away to look pretty. But they are temporary until the long travels get bought. Just wanted to get the rear end built and driving so as to test camber/toe setup through the range of travel. IMG_3505 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3506 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3508 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here's a teaser shot of the crossbracing mounted to the front snout of the subframe. The big rubber bushing mount is one of the rear corner subframe mounts that was cutout to make room for the mount to the mustache bar brackets in back. Now it is welded to the front, and canted at an angle so to resist paralellogram action with the other 4 bushings on the corners. The plate it bolts to is connected to 3/16 wall 1x2 box tube that is connected to the EA torsion tube mounting point. The idea here is to keep the lift blocks from having a lever action on the mounting points in the body, which is a big problem on EA81 lifts, since the blocks are in a single vertical plane (both holes in straight line). Under cornering the blocks can go from this... I I .... to like this ......../ /....... The plate is basically tacked tot eh box tubing right now. It will be changed and braced. Obviously the way it is now wouldn't hold much force. Just gettin things in place. IMG_3509 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

You just use whatever flexplate/flywheels matches the trans. If you have an automatic, that will be the 2.5 flexplate.

2002-03 EJ25 would be a 251 or 253, not a 25D And no you cannot use Cams from an early (90-98) EJ22e heads in the newer 99+ SOHC heads. Totally physycally different heads. 99+ sohc heads are bigger, more complicated (CAM case with like 27 bolts to disassemble, 3 different types of bolts and 2 of them love to break/strip.) I charge an extra 2 hours labor on 99+ Sohc head gasket jobs vs. an EJ22e. I would use the 97 22e heads. They are smaller, simpler, lighter, and easier to fit into the engine of older subarus. on a 2.5 block it will likely make over 150 hp which is PLENTY in an old EA body. Plus the big point of the "frankenmotor" combo is the high compression from tiny heads on big cyls. Improves the low end grunt of the engine. 25D heads are big and heavy, hard to adjust valve clearances (shim on bucket). And then it also wouldn't be a "Frankenmotor" so you don't get the compression bump that helps the low end. Unless the goal is %100 maximum top end HP, you don't need them. If you put 251 or 253 heads on it, you just basically made a 251/3 so not really a "frankenmotor" and you'd be better off to just get a whole 2000+ engine.....although those won't run easily off the 97 harness.

The cranks and rods are not the same. They are the largest major differences between. Though the blocks are different too. Early DOHC 2.5 blocks have Small 48mm rod journals, and a #3 thrust bearing location. The water jackets extend all the way down the walls of the entire cylinders. This leaves the cylinders left very tall and open all around, leading to resonance at the top and contributing to the head gasket failure rates. The small rod journals are known to fail often too. I'm not a fan of these blocks, although they do make GREAT power and rev QUICK (small journals, less crank mass) SOHC 2.5 blocks use larger 52mm rod journals (like all the rest of the EJs) and move the thrust to #5. The water jackets at the top side of the block around the base of the cylinders is decreased. This allows faster coolant flow, less stagnant pockets under the crossover. It also gives more meat at the base of the cylinder to prevent resonance. These blocks had pistons that come right to zero at the block deck, later ones with AVLS, the pistons actually come way out of the block. The 99's were a combo. They are basically the old DOHC 2.5 pistons stuck into the new 2.5 block. 52mm journals, #5 thrust, sturdy cylinders. There were some changes in Oil pump rotor thickness too, though I am not clear on which are in what.....but they are all interchangeable, so find a 10mm pump if you don't have one.

There is not an 8 pole relay in the factory setup. It's 5 pole IIRC, SPDT, basically a japanese version of the 87A relay. they were big and silver ovals like a small weird snuff can. I don't bother using them when I find them. I cannot fathom why the heck you need 8 pins. DPDT.....just not needed. A single DT relay or even switch would work.

There is no center diff. It is just 2wd or 4wd not AWD.

mismatched tires or using 4wd on the wrong terrain (or both) 4wd is only for use in slippery or loose traction. And do not try to turn tightly in 4wd even in hard pack and gravel, use 3 point or 5 point to turn around. Disengage 4wd BEFORE you exit slippery terrain. Rolling very slow in straight line. BEFORE you get to any pavement or hard pack. sometimes it is needed to roll back and forth but always in straight line and still while on the loose surface, be it dirt, mud, snow, sand ect.

I have 6 of the 4 ft. LED fixtures hanging in my single bay garage. Bi-Mart has them right now for 25.99! I paid 32.99 last year when they where "on sale" could have saved 30 bucks but then I'd have not had them all this year lol. I move them onto the sides of the walls when I do paint spray in there.

Yeah if you do it just right you don't even need the clutch to downshift......just gotta perfect match the rpms and catch it at the glide point, slides right in. You can stuff the guts of a Single range box into a 90's EJ trans front case and skip the adapter. Then you don't need the redrilled flywheel. You can use EJ flywheels and clutches including WRX if you get the correct flywheel I Swapped early Fulltime w/difflock guts into an EJ box for use in my 2.2 swapped 89 XT. 4wd button on the shifter and it's solenoids for control of the Difflock. Allows me to use original XT shifter and driveline, unmodified too. Alternately, it's not hard to swap in a full AWD EJ box from Legacy or whatever else......but then you need to fab shifters, drivelines, and get some 25 spline turbo axles if it doesn't already have them (some XT did)

year and model?

Yeah. Not possible in every state here, but most you can. In Oregon there are very few rules about how a lift can be done and no inspection to check it if their were. "lift kits" must be "made in such a way as to be safe" is basically what the law says. Really vague. Of course, if I was to ever cause an accident, my insurance could throw a fit and refuse to cover the liability...maybe. I will point out that nothing has been welded to the original unibody. A few little trims of some sheet metal edges is all I've done to the unibody. The entire subframe is bolted into the EA81 suspension mounting points. The entire thing could be removed, and the EA81 setup bolted right back in.

Green and Green/White are 12v+ in to the rotary switch. One for open, one for close. when one of those wires sees 12v, it then passed through the rotary switch and on the motor to move the door. when it rotates far enough, the switch opens, and power is no longer sent to the motor, so door stops. Black/red is 12v out of the rotary switch in the door unit.........loop it directly back to the Green/Red for motor 12v+. I think OE style it went out and looped through a lamp on the dash to tell you when the motor is moving. But that isn't necessary, so my diagrahms just show it looped back to the Bl/red. I would ditch the 8 pole relay. Not needed and hard to source a replacement if needed. is it even a 12v or is it 120v AC relay? Anyway, 1 or 2, 87A relays would be enough. 1 is enough really for a simple setup like I show in first diagram. The 87 and 87a pins make a convenient "either/or" for motor door open and close signals.