FerGloyale

IDK. You'd have to do the math. But the 06 pistons definitely protrude into the head. So if you put those 06 heads on 2000 pistons, there is alot of extra room in that chamber......probably still over 8.5 to 1 so it's not surprising it ran OK......I just bet the HP/torque maximums would show a bit lower if measured.

Just kinda where it worked out. I think since I am using the very max limit of the downtravel, it worked out with the shock at a fairly angled stance. If you look at the front mount of the subframe though, it couldn't really be moved much further "up" and in straight line. It seems fine when compressed, although I may have tucked it inwatrd too much. At compression, there is an inward angle to the strut. Like towards the centerline. I didn't want to get the mount too close to the tire....but I might have overcompensated. Whatever......this is temporary until I can drop ~$600-800 on a pair of fox long travel coilovers...........Or make something out of some F-150 rears or some crap. IDK....mpre to come.

More progress today. Shock mount for one side. IMG_3500 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting at what will be normal lightly loaded ride height. IMG_3501 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr More work to do tommorow

OMG. For the 20th time. It's up in the top left corner of the dash. Clipped to a bracket next to the fuel pump relay. It's brown, rectangular, with 6 pins. Fuel pump relay is round, 4pin with green connector. It's hard, but you can shove yer hand up there and pull it off the bracket.

3.7 and 3.9 are TALLER ratios than 4.11 What he really wants is 4.44 final drive. Or a true dual range. He could import a D/R EJ box from Aus or Europe, and that would bolt right in with no adapter or driveline mods.

You've got low compression then. The 07 heads have a large chambers. The 07 pistons protrude up into that chamber (above the deck) So if you've got 2000 pistons in there still, you've got low compression. Sure it runs. But it isn't correct. Should have swapped the pistons over too. I guess if the OP wants to do that he could. But you'd have to use the 06 heads with the 06 ECU and intake. I mean if you wanted to throw mad CEL codes I guess the 05 engine would run dropped in directly but wouldn't have AVLS so would throw codes maybe run weird. Oh and yeah a few 05 Outbacks had weird, single, oval port exhaust on the heads so that's a maybe issue too.

I hope with a fuse. lol That's how the top diagram of mine would work. Light can be on anytime. Of course this means it could be left on and drain battery. The second diagram more like how it would be from factory. To go on with LO and off with HI beams. with the addition though of a SPDT switch to override and turn on Center lamp anytime. FWIW, I don't think the it's legal to use the Center lamp as a "supplemental" lamp while HI beams are on. Although it's painfully dim so it probably doesn't matter.

Here's 2 ways to do it. No need for some fancy relay. Simple, "anytime" setup. Makes it so light can be operated at any time, regardless of Ig. or Lights. 02061502_zpscsqtiizo by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a bit more complicated. This setup would be only operational with Ig. key on. The SPDT switch allows the lamp to be set to be open and on whenever lo beams are on, or to be on constantly whenever at least the marker lights are on. 02061503_zpskfpseh4g by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

So I had these pics posted in the "longtravel outbacks" thread. but I thought that since this is really an EA81 build, I would start my own thread. This is T-bone T-bone hop by Dans Subaru, on Flickr So here is the old EA 81 rear setup. Tired torsions and extra plateing and liftblocks, along with teh already low hanging EA81 diff, make the rump roast of this guy the biggest problem. Breakin axles and stubs....can't find any more good axles, so it's time to go. IMG_2594 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I had thought about using an early Leggy or Forester setup.......but that would require full on strut mounts in teh back...which woud be lots of fab that there isn't room for. So I'm using the entire rear setup from an 03 Outback. Fitted with a Welded spider, 3.9 internal stub diff. Working on finding a VLSD for longer term road trip use. But for wheeling trips it's gotta be linclon locked for sure. IMG_3451 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I modified this subframe to have equal length lower arms....hopefully better travel range possible once I get the right shock setup. For now it will use stock 03 outback shocks. IMG_3455 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3445 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3442 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3461 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the projected "full stuffed" point. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's the forward mounting of the subframe. Built mounting off of the old EA81 6" lift block (there is an EA81 torsion tube section between the body and the blocks) IMG_3486 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3487 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting near ride height with wheels on. IMG_3489 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here is resting on it's own shocks. Literally it's just sitting on them....haven't actually made the shock mounts yet. Also need to finalize the Front trailing arm mounts and the sliders for them that will tie into the front/center subframe I have built. IMG_3491 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Won't work. in the 06 05 is Non-AVLS 06 is AVLS.......different heads and pistons so you couldn't even just swap the block. Swapping to the 04 should be fine.......only hiccup may be EGR vs. Non-egr

probably a U joint in the driveline. Not the rear diff. FWIW, the diff is bolt in. Uses same internal stub connection. Began here in 95 models.

Those aren't flashers, they are relays to the electronics in the car. IIRC, they are Blower motor, Left and Right Headlight, and Defrost. They should definitely be secured away from contact with metal.

90 ECU for manual trans really needs to see the 2 pin IAC valve at the intake, rather than the 3 pin like all later. Auto is the 3 pin. Aside from that ECU's will work from 90-94 with any full harness from 90-94. The catch being, that 90,91 are 3 plug at engine.. 92-94 use 2 large connectors at the engine. So you're intake wiring needs to match the rest of the loom. Turbo vs. non-turbo the pin differences are in the position of the + and - wires to the Cam and Crank sensors So cannot use ECU from one with the other.....UNLESS.......You can swap the pins at the Cam or Crank sensor connector under throttle body to swap between turbo /non-turbo ecus. In theory.

Hacking out the old EA Suspension IMG_3475 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Chaos of the project unfolding ont eh shop floor. Note the ol' EA parts on the right. IMG_3476 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sexy pic of projected "fully stuffed" wheel travel. IMG_3477 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr This ones dark, but it's the underside with the fully stuffed wheel. This will be about the limit of the up travel. bump stops to be added. IMG_3478 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Starting to look good under there. This is barely tacked, and only at the rear.......more work coming later today hopefully. Once I'm happy with positioning, I will drop it back out and weld it all solid. IMG_3483 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

That should work. Cut the blocks straight.

YIKES! That's not gonna hold for long. Won't pass inspection either I'm guessing. Dude you need to get in there an weld up some reinforcement. Or find a new car.........That is pretty bad.

yeah loosen all the bolts , then lower the suspension until it's supported about 85~95% by jacks. Just a bit of weight down. Then tighten all the link ends. I had to do this on my wife 03 LL Bean Outback to fit a 1-1/2" HDPE lift. Beyond that, I think it is the short link. It hits near a 45 degree angle and begins moving more in than down.......which then causes bind at the forward trailing arm bushing. Can't move in more , therefore, can't move down. And if it is forced down, like with spacer lifted shock, forcing it down it is pulling hard laterally on that front, main trailing arm bushing. That's why I'm doing this link extension. And also for protecting axle. Finalized link brackets and simultaneously added CV/Link protector sliders today. IMG_3473 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3471 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3472 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_3474 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Use brakes but also use the gears. No wear to clutch except the fork and TO bearing. Not unless you are slipping it on the downshift somehow. If you really want to teach him right, teach him how to heel and toe.......Braking lightly with toe of right foot, while using heel of right foot to apply small amount of throttle, raising RPMs as clutch is depressed, to match speed of next gear. Slide shifter into the next lower gear, let out clutch........all the while lightly braking but using the engine to do some of the work too. repaet down through second gear.........when slowed to near a stop, press clutch in and brake roll until you come to a stop........downshifting into 1st while moving is not recommended unless it's an emergency like snow or downhill muddy.

+1

did you run a "turbo" axle 25 spline, on a non turbo trans? (23 spline) Or are you talking about the splines inside the CV cup that engage the cage?

I;ve got a GL wagon gate. no glass But it will fit the same cars.....slight difference to the side trim but otherwise the same.

For the 11th time, it is WAAAY up in the very top corner of the dash. Drivers side. all the way to the left, all the way up.

well that's where the relay is. Way up in the corner.

Oh yeah, that camber and axle angles look just fine. Nothing to be improved on there. Oh except for terrible positive camber, and 30+ degree angles on those axles. They are bottomed against the edge of the cup! FWIW, the problem breaking axles is on uptravel, when the wheel has lots of weight and traction. At droop like shown, there is not really any traction to transfer power so that's not where the breaky breaky happens. And the axle shafts hang "ungaurded" just asking to be backed into rocks on rough terrain. Been there, done that. Thanks for posting pics that so beautifully illustrate all the problematic stuff that happens with long travel EA81 set-ups. I see too that your lift blocks use all right angles, with no diagonal bracing, and especially doesn't look like your torsion tube is cross braced. You will have issues with that soon enough,. If you don't your not wheeling like I wheel my car. MY EA81 is not my DD. And I didn't build it to look cool. I built it to wheel. Been doin so for years now. I know that of which I speak. As for the shock mounts.......I've got that covered......continue watching the progress of this thread and you will see. I have previously reinforced those mount points, tie them into the body rail below and above. I've got Long travel Bilsteins punched 3" up into the trunk. mounts are brace in a triangulated pattern, and tied together with a crossbar in the trunk that serves as a hi-lift jack mount Believe me, the mounting area is strong enough and built for a long travel already. I would ask that if you want to further talk about EA81 rear suspension and how YOU think it should be setup......Please start a thread. Your car is an awesome build. And for fun, most of the time, the EA81 set-up you've got is great.....your's is about as good as it can get......but that's the point.....it's as good as it can be, and I am ready for better..... I'm sure the OP would appreciate keeping this one focused on his Outback projects. One or 2 post with a comparative point is fine, but we are getting now into thread jack territory. I only posted in here becasue I am modifying the same type of set up as him.

After 95 they all have internal stub diffs. An adapter mount will accommodate the coil overs. There is room a plenty with very minimal mod. Nothing like mounting a full strut. The trailing arm bracket on this rear end setup will sit nearly excactly were the front mount of the torsion tube is now. In fact It will be closer to the body. Trailing arms are nearly the same length.