FerGloyale

That is an INSANE price for simple pad/rotor swap. Pads should be no more than $60 per axle.......so $120 total. Rotors....let's say $75 a piece.....that's $300 for all 4.....a very high estimate. So that's $420 parts, and Labor for a brake pad swap should be no more than $100 per axle (again, a very high estimate) That's $620 at high estimate prices. Now, if they want to replace Calipers too.......that ups the price substantially........but that should not be needed on a 6 year old car. That shop is either charging INSANE markup on parts, or charging way too much labor......either way, I would NEVER go to that shop again.....EVER

Yes will fit but ABS is different. 96 would be tone ring on the hub, 05 is tone ring on the axles. If your Impreza has ABS it will not be compatible.

If yer gonna lift it and offroad it, just ditch the swaybar entirely. It really isn't needed.

The symptoms described mean that either the Passenger side HL fuse is blown, or the Pass side relay is out. This is confirmed by the fact that the pass side goes out entirely when the driver side is disconnected. Since you checked fuses, I suggest checking the relay. It is under the dash, left of column, black connector, with a BW, BY, B, and smaller Black wires. BW is power from battery, BY is power out to Headlight fuse 8. Large B (or other color in some years) is Ig. switched power, and the small black is ground. Hope this helps.

Won't run on stock management. IIRC, Cam sensors are all different setup. Turbo EJ255 is AVCS, with sensors at the back of each intake Cam, not on the gear like EJ251/3 setup. And also the EJ255 intake won't bolt onto the SOHC heads. Maybe with an adpater/spacer? Or you could try to swap wiring over to a 251/3 manifold? The DOHC heads really aren't much larger, especially width wise........Why not just run a full EJ255 rather than some hybrid?

EJ track width/axles are wider/longer than XT6 by about 1-1/4" total track difference. You need to widen your control arms 5/8th inch each.

NPR piston rings are the best "stock" rings for subies. I would make sure to get the correct ones. Ring thickness and width may be different on newer 2.5 (i believe they are, especially if turbo) Not specifically endorsing this seller, but I found these in like 20 seconds of searching. https://www.ebay.com/i/250743961661?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=250743961661&targetid=596465943828&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9033024&poi=&campaignid=6470719340&mkgroupid=77931583832&rlsatarget=pla-596465943828&abcId=1140476&merchantid=6482944&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoeGT7a3i5AIVkcVkCh1eCgRGEAQYASABEgKRc_D_BwE Those would be the ones you want.

Honestly, if the rear main isn't leaking, leave it alone. Seen more leaks after changing than before. It's really best to change the seal while the case is split. It can be replaced by pry out/pop in new one but it's easy to bugger up. Unless you see signs of significant leakage, I recommend leaving it alone. Reseal the rear separator plate (replace with metal if you have plastic one.)

It SHOULD be okay to test drive a little with FWD fuse in. Alternately, you could remove the rear section of center section of the driveline.

I personally ONLY buy batteries with 72 month or 84 month warranties. (6 or 7 years) They usually last at least 5 and fail close to the 65~70 month mark. At that point the pro-rated "warranty" will only take about 5 bucks off the price of the new one, if you buy it from them again. Warranties are mostly scams, but it gives you a good idea of what the battery life should be.

Ideally, A car battery should not be "Deep Cycling" or having full "charge-discharge cycle". It should only draw down a little during starting and top back up and stay maintained by the alternator. That honestly doesn't look like the Original OE Subaru battery. I can't say for sure but I didn't think they shipped from the factory with retail branded "intersate" batteries. This doesn't take several things into account. 1) The cost of inflation. and the fickleness of the timing of "sales" . The second "5 year" battery may not be available for $50, might be $75 or $90 by then.....we don't know. Sure you could argue that your $75 purchase will be "equivalent to 5 years previous $50, but wage inflation has been and likely to be slower than retail costs inflation of durable goods. 2) Opportunity cost of the consumed time you have to spend diagnosing, shopping for, and installing the second "5 year" battery. And for many folks the cost of paying to have it installed. 3) Incurred expenses when the Battery breaks down. This could be nothing if you have AAA reasonably close to home.......Or $600 for a tow and or a hotel if not. Now, this could happen to the 10 year battery at the end of it's life also, but with the "5-year" you've run that risk and potentially incur those expenses twice. 4)...Not really an objective part of the equation.......But subjectively, anecdotally, I would not bet on a $50 walmart battery to EVER last 5 years. So you may be looking at $150 to get 3 "5-year" $50 Walmart batteries to last for 10 years. Well......Actually the best choice from a given source and price, should be the correct size and min. CCA for the vehicle. Improperly sized batteries that don't fit the hold down correctly or stretch the wiring to reach posts are a hazard. If you are weighing differences between brands and costs, you'd think since lead is a cost, that the battery with more (heavier) would be more better and more expensive. But that actually may NOT be the case. Cheap batteries have fewer plates, and often these individual plates are thicker. Thick plates are easier to cast and handle, and are more durable in the battery without having to do as much engineering of the rest of the structure. Cheaper, easier to make, clunkier low quality items are often heavier than their more expensive high quality counterparts. Higher end Batteries have more, thinner plates stacked closer together. This results in the volume of the battery having a lower ratio lead to space between. The acid weighs less than lead so the battery ends up weighing less. You're best bet to get a long lasting battery is to not buy the cheapest option. The best battery for the car is the one that fits right. Seems pretty obvious.

Any Dual port EJ22E heads would work. They all use that same plate......it blocks the distributor port. No USDM cars got distributors though so they all have plates here. EJ18/22 Turbo heads have like m10 and m12 or 14 banjo bolts for coolant and oil lines......easy to block off. Hardest thing is the return tube, it's got to be extracted (kinda tough) or cut and shut (welded closed). Or if you want to be hoopty just put a capoff over it's end.......it'll get oily though. But why unless you just have them lying around? They are Slide Follower/Hydro adjuster and same size valves so nothing gained to use for NA. USDM options are basically 90-94 with Slide follower/Hydro adjuster or 95 which IIRC are Roller follower/Hydro adjuster. Between those 2 options I'd go with the 95. 95 from AT will need EGR port plugged, easy. m16 bolt IIRC? or just take a old EGR tube end and cut and shut. I personally would try to find some JDM EJ20E (NA) heads. Same size valves and combustion, but with non-interfernce, Roller follower/Solid adjuster cams and rockers. Those are the Heads and Cams I run on my lifted wheeler. Weighs ~3500 lbs and pushes 31" tires. I did de-burr and "match" the heads to the intake ports and de-burred and light polished the exhaust ports. Well worth the work if you are gonna have the valves pulled for a grind already. And yes that will be crazy scary fast. What trans are you using? The stock one will be WAAAY short geared for that EJ. You'll be shifting every 0.5 seconds! And it might break it.....I'd be careful with 130 hp through a box built for about 50. Lucky for you there are lots of options for upgraded VW trans and adapters.

You're car is currently 4.44. LL Bean is 4.11. So, if you swap to the 4.11 diff to match yes it will. BUT!!!........The taller gearing will make the car feel less powerful off the line, and during hills and towing. It may improve Highway gas mileage as the trade off. Also, the TCU may or may not have a problem with seeing the wrong RPMs vs. VSS readings. Also, the shifts may try to happen too early, as they would be mapped for 4.44. Differences in clutch pack specs for 4cy vs. 6cyl may also cause shifts to feel clunky or laggy.....not sure but since the differences in the trans are there, it's possible. Not sure if the wiring would allow swapping TCUs to match. It might. But then also the H6 TCU may want a different type of TPS signal.....again not sure. Basically, yes it will drive if you swap diffs. The nuances about how well it will actually perform and if you'll be happy are hard to parse. I would find a good 4 Cyl Outback or Forester trans.

the problem with this line of thinking is you are assuming it's ALL the rings that are "bad". When in fact, the compression rings are usually fine, it's just the oil rings that are the problem. It's not a worn bore, or tired compression rings. Just oil. Often these engines burn oil simply because the owners don't change oil often enough, and the coked up burnt oil clogs the oil control rings. That's it. They are clogged and stuck in the land, and can't scrape away oil anymore so they burn. Worse for boxers because gravity doesn't help keep the oil down. The compression rings ARE FINE. The bores are fine. It's just clogged oil rings 90% of the time making them burn oil. So honing out the bore, roughly, by hand, with a ball hone will produce a WAAAY more uneven, non-uniform finish than the factory. Plus, to properly hone, you need the block split, and if you do that then you better be ready to polish the crank and putt in new bearings. Why? Just to control oil consumption? It's pointless. EJ na engines mostly don't lose compression to ring wear.......they just sometimes need new oil control rings.

If you have to fab them anyhow, would suggest using captive nuts and bolt down both sides of the U-bracket. Seen many times the bent tabs tear out of the slots.....the design of the bar means those bushings can see ALOT of force when articulated. I would also recommend adding a tab across the arch of the u-brackets........perpendicular across them, with ends folded down. This will keep the bushings from walking out the side.....something I've also seen several times with this style bar.

Don't do it. So much work for no gain. EA81 flywheel will need holes bored out to fit EA82 crank. Crossmember needs modded to fit EA81 mounts. Clutch cable likely won't reach,(fork on the other side) need EA81 cable and then how to mate it to EA82 pedal box? Driveline would need to be shortened or use 4spd 1 piece. Shifter may not even lineup int he same hole.....might..........But D/R lever for EA82 won't work with EA81 since it's part of the EA82 shifter, which goes away. Just don't do it. Wait and get a 5-spd D/R

I agree. And why the HELL would they not give you valve covers? So they ship it with every passageway into the engine open to dust debris. WTF? Get a Subaru genuine new shortblock. Comes with a brand new Water pump, thermostat, Oil pump, and Oil pan. Last one I got I only paid $1700 (that was a 25D) pay the shop a little extra labor to swap the heads while it's out. They will like that cause it will put a bit of money in the bank for the job rather than being a complete loss of their time. You;ll spend about the same, and have abetter product.

GMB is chinese garbage parts. If you see those green bearing seals, run. The Aisin boxed kits are fully Japanese parts, from what I have seen. NTN tensioner, Koyo rollers, Mitsuboshi belt. Just used one of those kits for a 08 WRX.

the Impreza one should work. Pretty much any 90's subframe would work. they all fit the same hole, and have same mounts for arms..... So variation in how much and what type of reinforcements are on it, and early ones mount diff to a plate, then plate into craddle.......newer ones the Bushings are in the craddle and the diff mounts direct. But those can be swapped by swapping long/short mounting studs around on the diff rear cover. I've got 91 legacy rear arms in my 98 Forester, while I had apart for swap I compared and confirmed that the craddles are effectively the same from 90's thru at least 99 on the Leg and on up to 07 on the FOR/IMP cars.

I toatlly agree here. This is what I tell people all the time. And I don't disagree here, but I would like to note my own experiences. I have not had to stop driving a motor due to large Main clearances. That isn't what fails. Usually the scraper rings are coked up and it's burning oil, and ROD bearings begin to suffer form loss of oil pressure (admittedly made worse as mains wear) Now, unlike the mains, the rods are steel, they don't oval like the case, the hang in until the bearing spins then start knock knock..Who's there...A spun bearing that's who. With this all in mind, I have rebuilt nearly a dozen 2.2 and a few 2.5 engines. 1 EJ18. all NA. Mains in the case have all been mostly in spec, a few slightly over......but It's almost a non issue on NA motors. I just fit recon the rods and crank. Thrust clearance is the most important, especially for Manual trans cars.

Well, I got the spare trans installed.......... Had to pull it from the T-cased XT in the morning right after coffee. Then I had to pull the rear cover and 4WD output shaft off. For the T-cased application, I had removed the 4wd shift fork and welded the collar straight to the gear for maximum rear output strength. During the rehab, had a snafu dropping one of the Hi/Lo 4wd interlock pellets into the trans during reassembly. This required pulling the entire transfer section, and shaking the trans upside down to get the damn thing to fall out. Then I put the transfer section back on. Round 2 attempting to reassemble interlock pellets/springs/balls and 4wd fork. DOOOOH! dropped the damn pellet again. This time not so far in, and with a little rocking and turning over and a magnet tool it came out! 3rd attempt sucessful, 4wd interlock setup all togehter, ever pin, spring, pellet, and ball damnit. Try for test shift.......spoob...................can feel the tracks for 1/2 and 3/4 but cannot engage the 5/R track, and gears won't shift from nuetral into any 1-4 gears. I can feel teh engagement, but it won't move. Damn......I bumped the 5/R shaft forward into 5th while installing the Transfer section. Damnit Pull Transfer section again....yup, just as I thought, 5/R shifter slid forward into 5th. Reset to nuetral position, reinstalled transfer section, this time with shifter rod engagement proper and all good. Trans finished, sealed......I set about checking the clutch......It was figgin beautiful. I could have skipped it, but hell it's good to know the Exedy clutch and my left foot are working well together......that clutch has seen some considerable use.....and still looks good and meaty and fresh. Also welded some cracks and tears in the Y-pipe. Swapped a good bad trans mount for a good one and took some time to get the mounts solidly fixed to the crossmember. All in all it's all better than it was before. Reinstall trans, swapped out the shaky EMPI axle for the modified tripod FEQ axle while it was all apart. Test drive was stellar. No axle shake, trans is quite and strong feeling. Tiny amount of exhaust rub against frame makes a little rattle at some throttles, but it's totally benign I think. WCSS21 here we come. Pics of the welded output shaft, and of the cluster F%#* that is the 4wd D/R interlock. IMG_0372 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0371 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0370 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Yeah, I thought it would work or it wouldn't, and at least I've had the use of the junk trans to test drive the suspension mods. I purposely stressed it today, to see if it would hold up to the task of towing 900lb trailer to WCSS........failed......better now than on the trip this weekend. I hauled a dump run of 900lbs from my house in my little trailer, and I stuffed 3 cinder blocks in the trunk just to see how it deals with the weight. As far as spring, it's plenty. Holy moly. It feels really progressive too......rides nice over little bumps, soaks up the big ones. SO......... Towed home. Removed broken trans. My son and I got it out in about 80 mins. Tomorrow I will pull trans from the monster t-cased XT. It's got a welded rear output, so I will have to swap that for the one on this junker trans I just pulled. Done for tonight. Enjoy pics of the super sprung rear end IMG_0367 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

I believe there are some EA81 axles that use the 87-AC joint, same as AWD 1st generation legacy. Should be able to simply slide the EA81 cup off and slip Leggy cup right on to the assembled balls and cage........

Crap......Trans just popped second gear. Springs are awesome. Damn, gotta go pull a parts tranny.

more work. Upper perch for passenger side Damn upsidedown pics...you get it. IMG_0359 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0358 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0357 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And welded onto the car. Further out, barely clears the upper arm, but it does. IMG_0360 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0361 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0362 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0363 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Spring in place under some load (about 1/3rd travel) IMG_0364 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0365 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr