FerGloyale

It's not a "safety switch" It is simply a signal to the ECU, and has ZERO effect on cranking or starting. Cold start-up the ECU doesn't care whether in "N' or driving, it's all open loop, fixed maps for warm up. After warm up, it goes closed loop, and that's when it matters for idle. (in combo with VSS) It never has any effect on cranking. The "lockout" to keep it from being started while a gear is engaged is from the clutch switch and a relay. Neutral switch is not part of that system, so it's not a "Safety Switch" just clarifying. (It's like when people say "Pollution Control Valve" for PCV....ugh.) Your problem sounds more like VSS with the Rev limit and all.

If it still runs, the timing belt didn't snap. Maybe skipped teeth. But if it snapped entirely, it won't run at all. I personally wouldn't put any money at all into a 20 year old, 200k mile, Dodge Neon. Junk it.

It's electrical mostly. The wiring from the phase I mani, wont work with teh Phase II ECU. The phase II Manifolds won't fit the EJ22E. So, the way to do it is one of 2 ways. A) Full harness strip from the donor car, and install like doing an EJ swap in an older car. OR........... B ) Swap phase II wiring and throttle body over onto phase I intake. A block off plate will have to be made that fits between TB and intake, to block off the Idle passage. Injector connectors will need to be modded/swapped to work on the Phase I injectors. This will run fine, but will have CEL and won't have warm up idle control so you'll need to hold the gas on cold mornings for a 10~30 secs before will idle. * note, if you are installing into a Manual trans vehicle, you will not have a lower starter bolt......so that would need addressed.

Replace the rings while the heads are off. Otherwise, you will do a valve job and then be pissed when the engine still smokes. Don't hone the cyls. Don't split the block.

i"m going to measure it soon. Had to dig up an angle gauge. I'm guessing almost 30 degrees. maybe more

it can be done with regular clamps using long skinny screwdriver, or 1/4 drive, thinwall socket. Provided it wasn't put together with teh clamp oriented in a way that you can't access after manifold is on.

seriously, that screw missing near the bottom right corner of the VSS unit looks like it is the contact to the trace sheet that corresponds to that pin with the Yellow/red wire.

what are dimensions and the wall thickness of the square? tubing you used as the main beam? And the plate for the rest? 1/8th in? I want to make a similar bumper for my 98 Forester.

Why did you get rid of the 88 dash? DL dash has no tach? It does have VSS though. From the info in the 87 FSM you've got the right pin with the yellow/red wire. that wire should OUTPUT a VSS signal (4 pulses per evolution) That wire should be connected to the VSS wire for the ECU. it only makes a pulse as the cable rotates the speedometer. So make sure your cable is correct int he trans and working. Also, I am seeing a missing screw to the lower right corner of the speedo in your pic. That may be the connection for that trace to the VSS unit. Also, What ECU are you running to manage 8lbs of boost on a high compression EJ22? Your issue may not have anything to do with speedo.

There are no resistors in the factory wiring. Maybe the Diode that seperates the IG control and the Alt signal voltage? Can you take a picture? Also a note about ECU and Disty. 87 and previus ECU have the signal and refrence disty pin for the disty reversed. So you can't use an 87 ECU or disty with newer stuff *unless you swap 2 pins at the disty.* Not really directly your issue, but just an FYI

It's not really that bad. It can cause liquid gas to enter the EVAP canister. But eventually will clear itself. worst thing is gas spilling on the ground and on the cars paint.

Outback sedan? Didn't those have rails and roof racks?

That's not piston slap. Piston slap is light and almost clickity clacky, and will go away after warmed up. That sounds like a timing tensioner slapping, and an exhaust leak too.

Nah, I've definitely measured the diff. It's centered. I triple checked that as I was using the diff mount holes as datum points to reference when putting the 03 rear suspension on my 84. The diff input is offset for sure, but the rear of the diff and the outputs are centered from everything I can measure. I think it's gotta be a flex thing. Like when the diff is under load, it twists CC if you are looking the same direction as the car travels. This lifts the right side cup, pulling it slightly further away from the hub. I had thought it was all taken up by the ball spline CV plunge, but apparently not. I mean, it probably would work even if it was centered......only a 9mm difference.

well, learn something new everyday. This thread made me go back and look through FSMs, and what do you know. From all the way back to 90 Legacy FSM, (base EJ platform) Right axle distance between boots, 304mm. Left axle, 295mm. So that would be consistent with your measurements. Damn, I'm gonna have to start labeling axles left and right. The thing I don't understand, is that the diff is centered in the suspension. Why the axle length difference? perhaps to counteract the torque on the bushings under load? Does the diff shift that far to one side under load? Is Symetrical AWD a lie? lol.

replace the wheel cylinder. Cheap and easy. Just put some penetrating oil on the wheel cyl bolts and hardline fitting before trying.

All together and test drove today. Weird howl from trans input shaft when in nuetral idling. Expected that. after short drive and idling it actually subsided quite a bit. I think if I don't hammer on 1st or 2nd gears for a few long cruises it might break in. I will change the Gear oil after about 50~100 miles, if it makes it that far, lol. Suspension actually performed really well. After driving a tad, the spirngs settled, and ride height is about 1-1/2" below "topped out". A bit high, but actually rode really nice, didn't feel like it was lifting under accel. I didn't notice anything that seemed like CV cup interference. Here's a shot sitting almost level. IMG_0198 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And a sexy 14"+ ground clearance in the center. Slight lean to one side because of slope of my driveway and the dip it's straddling. IMG_0201 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Close up of the Arm IMG_0199 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Hmm....Can't say for sure about the lateral links, but I do know for sure that subaru axles are the same length left/right. They are technically side specific because of the direction oil retention grooves in the stubs that go into diff, but they are same length, and essentially interchangable left to right.

Ground the other 2 ridge ends The tool IMG_0188 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Baby steps. IMG_0189 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr All cut and sanded.IMG_0190 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0191 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Installed at full droop. just clears. all 3 ridges. IMG_0193 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0194 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0195 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And for comparison, here is at 2/3rds compressed. Tripod still well in the cup, so I don't think popping out the ends because of what I removed will be a problem. IMG_0196 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr All that remains to be seen now, is if the flexing of trans on it's mounts during driving will cause interference with the ridges. there isn't much wiggle room to what I've done here. If this doesn't work.....I think I've got to lengthen the arms again another 3/8" in on pass, 1/4" on driver. The angle change I made to the ball joint pockets I think put the effective distance between the ball pivots 5/8th closer to each other. Probably will just work on getting the EJ crossmember and A-arm setup fabbed up rather than burn another set of XT6 arms or re-weld these a third time.

Replace the cogged idler too. That one in particular is the known culprit of 70-80% of the t-belt failures. Koyo only. Personally I would at a minimum do the upper smooth roller too. it has alot of stress on it. The lower smooth has barely any stress in comparison, so re-using it is not so risky. If you add the upper smooth, and the lower cogged idler, it should only add another $100 to the whole job.

Well, it's not an anomalous axle. Swapped the driver side over to the passenger side and problem is the same. Since I modified one already for pass side, I moved that one driver, so now driver side should have plenty of clearance to turn free. Started fresh on modifying the second one. Untouched IMG_0168 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Look on the right side of the ridge. Ding from axle contact just turning it with a breaker bar. IMG_0167 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Cut out end of one ridge IMG_0169 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0170 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0171 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr I took the boot off and cleaned out the cup and reinstalled after modding one ridge. Here is at max droop, just barely clears. IMG_0173 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0174 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And here you can see the untouched ridge approach and hit as the shaft rotates. IMG_0175 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0176 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0185 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Heres another 2 comparison shots at full droop. Untouched ridge hitting IMG_0183 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr and modded ridge clearing, this ones blurry, but you can see the gap....this is at full droop. IMG_0182 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Now for compressed angles, I wanted to see how far in the cup the tripod moves, to determine if my cut away from the ends of the ridges would be problematic. This was as much as I could get the arm to compress safely with jack under the control arm. You can see there is still 1~2" of uptravel left, but CV angles are almost flat by this point and won't change much more at full compression. IMG_0179 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Shaft clear of untouched ridge, and tripod way inside cup still. So I think I'm clear to grind out the other 2 ridges and be good. IMG_0180 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Another shot with the modded ridge up at the top just clockwise of the tiripod. blurry but you can see the joint is well insdie the cup, so my cutout shouldn't matter. IMG_0178 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Mitsuboshi. I would replace everything except MAYBE the tensioner.

1) yeah that's my hopes too as far as the trans. Maybe I will be very light throttle on it for a few long road cruises.....then change fluid maybe it'll "break in". Or it will just break. Meh.....trans is easy to replace. 2)Yeah...try different axles. I could do that. But I hate spending money on this project. This is my toy, and I can't let it take resources from my family. That's why almost all of this rig has been built out of second hand parts from my business. If I wanted to spend money to wheel I'd buy a JEEP!. Already maxed my summer budget for "maintenance" on all these new parts for front end. There are 6 ball axles, actually the OE FWD Imp ones would have been like that. Maybe I'll try to find some OE from junkyard again. If/when I go 4EAT, I will be able to use lots of variety Forester/Legacy/WRX wagon axles. those should have plenty of clearance. Just trying to get a few test miles on the suspension. 3) I really don't want to redo a lift block. And from what I found, I would have to drop the right side 1~ 2" before the axle comes into an angle that works. What I could do is lengthen the Arm another 1/4" on that one so that the tripod is just a little further out in the cup at full droop, and that would work. I think I am goin to try swapping axle sides, and see if the other does the same thing on that side. If so, then I know it's the geometry. If not, then it's that one friggin axle..... IDK, I think I'm gonna try and grind out the ridges between the tripod grooves again.

Ebay isn't a store or seller. It's a platform. some sellers and products are great. others are not. 32000+ sales and 99.6 % positive feedback for that seller. Pretty sure you can trust them. You will need an EA82 manifold, or a different adapter for EA81. Heres the adapter https://www.ebay.com/itm/Adapter-plate-for-installing-Weber-carb-Subaru-EA81-OHV-1600-1800-Weber/331243512837?fits=Make%3ASubaru&epid=550958243&hash=item4d1fa6e405:g:zMsAAOSwBadTqfxV

EA81 or EA82? Here an EA82 kit. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1985-1987-1-8L-OHC-EA82-Weber-Carb-Conversion/331100259795?fits=Make%3ASubaru&epid=591465372&hash=item4d171d05d3:g:G~0AAOSwcN1aWTb9 Say's won't fit power steering but it will with slight modification. or get the manual choke version from same seller.