FerGloyale

Well horse crap. This damn project is moving backwards. #1) upon test assembly of the trans, it seems there is something amiss in the way either 1st or 2nd gear sets mesh. Something in the profile of the teeth, not any visible diffeerence though. It's a mismatch set. This is why you should never mismatch gearsets. There is a rythmic roughness felt when input shaft is turned. I disassembled, counted teeth, measured gear diameters, all seems to match up. Donor shaft came from an identical D/R 3.9 4wd 5-spd. IDK, It's my on;y option for now. I went ahead and put it together, and I will run it for a bit to test the suspension, and I'll prepared another good D/R for when this one inevitablely craps out. Oh well. Disappointing, still it felt like some move forward. #2) this one is the M%#%FU#%%^. Installed trans. Install crossmember, and hooked up axles to trans. After installing both roll pins, with front end on jacks stands, and wheels hanging at full droop, I rotate tires. Drivers side turns free and fine. Passenger side, won't rotate. turns almost a 1/3rd of turn, then stops. Puzzled, i investigate. Turning harder I can see the trans being pulled down against it's rubber mounts. It's the damn axle's angle. the side of the shaft is binding agains the 3 high ridges inside the inner CV cups! Both axles are brand new, smae brand (FEQ.....I know not OEM. But finding 2 good OE 23 spline IMP axles was not happening) Now, if I put a jack under one side, and compress suspension to lessen the angle eventually the binding stops and wheel turns freely. So I took apart the inner CV Cup. Nothing amiss (i had hoped maybe a piece was out of place in the bottom of the cup) The ridges between the 3 grooves had a slight bevel in the end. I took a dremel and ground down those edges more. took quite a bit of material, to the point I though I'd be ruining the grooves that the tripod rides in if I went further. It wasn't enough. Upon reassembly, the binding feeling is still there. Very light on 2 spots, but the 3rd still binding pretty hard. I know that under acceleration, the front suspension lifts and runs near full droop. If I leave it like this, it will be surely a terrible vibration and might just blow the cup apart. Gave up for the night. Super depressed. I might try to take the cup apart and grind out more, since it did seem to help on 2 of 3......maybe if I take them all a bit more it will be ok? Cheap rump roast aftermarkets anyhow already can't return. Before doing that, I might take the axle from the other side and swap sides, see if it does the same thing.....maybe it's a geometry issue? But I don't think so. Every measurement I can take show the left and right to be within 1/8th inch. I have a hard time believing that 1/8th in could make the difference.

Pretty sure you can just run forester struts/shocks. Definitely fine for front. Might be too much to keep good camber and wheel centered in the well in back. If that's the case, grab the subframe spacers from Forester too? at least for back.

Yeah I wrote that write up about front seal replacement. It's on;y really applicable to single range. The front seal on the dual range 4 and 5 spds is carried in the input housing, so a press is needed to remove the bearing, then replace the seal, even after you've gotten in the box. The dual range 5 spd is similar, and comes apart pretty much the same. But again the seal isn't in the case, it's in the input housing. 4-spd, a bit tougher. Still, the bolt you need to get to is on the selector arm, under that inspection cover, below the 4wd selector rods you see on top. You may need to shift into 4wd hi or lo to get the space needed to see down to the selector. Possibly need to knock out the roll pins and pull the circlips so the rods can be removed, then you should be able to get to the bolt that holds the reverse lockout arm. That's what you need to get at. Undo it, then rotate the selector CC until it's free of the shift fork fingers, and then teh whole rear case slides off. After that you'l need that big socket mentioned to remove the 4th gear? set from the upper shaft to separate cases. Can't remember but I'll look in the book again and post back.

No, I meant take it for a drive as is now. Then decide whether or not to cut, or go to softer springs. I am using these springs as FRONT springs paired with 2011 front struts, on an 84 GL wagon that previously had 8" top blocks. With the longer 2011 struts, I am now running 5" strut top spacers. 6" crossmember and radius plate drop.

Power seat just needs a 12v+ wire run to it. Heating elements need the switches, but i agree with uniberp that the switch wiring is probably there under the carpet.

Are you trying to teach us how to google? C'mon man don't condescend us. Besides, searching that way yields NOTHING! So what's your point? Sorry man, but there is no "strut delete kits" offered for subaru. Just buy a damn set of KYBs and rent a compressor. Or have a shop do it. Those are the options. You've got the info you need. If you still need to argue with someone about something try a political forum.

it will work for a while. But yeah, 130 hp will eat the 4-speed.

Best solution.

Yeah that difference is because of the change in rear shock mounting on the EA/ER platform. As for cutting, the lower perch has accommodation for the coil end. The upper perch is flat, but the spring is flat also on that end. So if I cut the lower end, and rotated the spring so the end fits in the notch, I don't see it being any issue. I would cut with bandsaw, so no real heat or hardening change. What I do worry about is that I've got about 6 inches of shock travel. The current roughly 12" spring, compresses to 6 inches just before coils touch. If I cut it to 11" then when the strut compresses that full 6" the spring coils may touch at the bottom out point. I do have urethane bumpers on the strut shaft, so that should soften it before the coil bind "hits" But IDK. I cut some random aftermarket Legacy coils to work with EA81 struts, and ran into this binding problem I am talkin about. Don't want to do that again. Anyhow, gonna put the trans back in the car, swap tie-rods for EJ ones, and take it for a rough drive to see how it works out after settling in the springs.

WOW. Only 190? I thought they'd be at least 250. Maybe Sedan springs would be less? Gosh, if they are only 190, maybe I just need to get it rolling and pound it over some bumps and see how it settles in. What do you think about cutting 3/4 of a coil off?

If your donor is pre 95 yes, You want a 90-94 rear diff. 95+ will have the wrong type of axle mating.

EJ hubs won't fit EA struts. EJ axles are too long. EJ brakes don't have E-brake. Balljoints wrong size, tierods wrong size. 5 lug rear hubs needed to match. Just swap to EA turbo axles, and a 4.11 rear diff with male stubs. Doing a whole 5lug swap is quite the endeavor.

You broke a timing belt. That's why it sounds like starter is spinning, motor has no compression now the valves are all bent. You need to replace the valves or hte entire heads with new ones. Probably not worth fixing I guess since it's an east coast car. If it's got any rust, just junk it and find a new one.

Hey all. Request to those in the know about spring lengths and rates for 00-09 Legacy/Outback rear ends. I am using 03 outback wagon rear springs for FRONT springs on this project. Anyone know what the specs for length and rate are for these? These springs may be just too stiff. set it down on it's own weight and it barely if any weighs down the front end. I have a feeling it would be "topped out" under even the lightest throttle. I would like it to sit more in the middle of it's range of travel. So my question is how do other springs from Sedan models, Non-outback models, and maybe rallitek options all compare in length and spring rate? I also have thought of trying to cut 3/4 coil off the curent springs, to bring it down some. But shortening the spring may lead to coil bind under full compression. thoughts?

sounds like a 4.11 A EJ trans, (from 90-96 Legacy, Outback or Impreza sport) would be the best fit for what you want. You don't need the Dual range if your not serious offroading. You will need Turbo EA axles (25 spline), custom shortened center driveline, custom shortened shifter (Modify the EAshifter ) and a custom crossmember and center mount cradle. And EJ flywheel and clutch set. this will delete the adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. So you could sell those to make back some $. That trans will give you shorter 1st gear, and taller 5th gear. And could accept the even taller 5th gear set from Forrester turbo.

EJ 5th gear will not fit on a standard PT dual range. It would have to be a "fulltime" 4wd difflocking AWD box. just get taller tires.

that will work, but it's a 38/38 synchronous. Meaning both barrels open the same amount all the time. Will be great for top end, probably fine for driveability. But kinduv overkill at low speed might suck down the mileage. Most people do go with the 32/36 progressive which is more like the hitachi stock with a primary and secondary system. Kit # K730, listed on this page, http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/subaru/ is a 32/36 progressive that will fit your EA81

More work today. First, ripping out the old struts and lift, and old control arm, knuckles axles and brake brackets. IMG_0156 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Drilled out holes for larger XT6 arm pivots. IMG_0157 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Then a little welding to patch a rip. I will weld the inner edge also after struts, but before trans reinstall. IMG_0159 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr New arm fitted. IMG_0158 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Sitting on it's own. Springs may actually be too stiff. Might have to source sedan rear springs. IDK, we will see how these do driving. IMG_0160 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Everything worked out well with one exception. The control arms ball joint pocket for the tapered stud needs it's angle changed. The added length makes it so the balljoint pocket needs tipped "up" and towards the rear a tad. With it just extended straight, there is now not enough angle in the balljoints to allow for full droop, and full lock. So that will need to change. Not ideal, but I think I can adjust them with a strategic cut, bend and reweld. Now I know for future if I need to make new arms again later. Although goal is to go full EJ front arms soon. these EJ length, EA arms are an interim step.

yeah those look fine. Nothing to worry about.

finished blocks. IMG_0152 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0151 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

Here's the EA81 kit for the 2 barrel hitachi Brat manifold. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-1976-1989-1600-1800-OHV-EA71-81-High-Performance-European-Weber-38-38-Kit/331655171188?hash=item4d38304c74:g:zBQAAOSwLqFV90KH But it's the 38/38 synchronous, not the sequential 32/36

The Carter Carb used on SOME subaru's in the 80's is a single barrel. Those Cater equipped manifolds won't adapt well or fit with the redline kits. I think 82/83 49 state 1800 4wds only. Honestly, best bet it probably to swap to EA82 manifold, and use the EA82 Redline kit. Unless you have Power steering.....than you need to keep the EA81 manifold. There should be EA81 kits out there though.

it's below the master Cylinder. It's a separate unit. on a 97 it should be replacable completely by just a double female 90 degree bend M10 connector. Older models that controlled 2 wheels require a 3 way "T" female connector.

Remove the cable. Removing the spring keeps it from retracting open. might have it set on all the time car is pointed uphill.

it's a plate next to the rear main seal that is sealed with RTV. Often the cause of bad leaks. Mistaken for rear main leaks but ussually it's the plate. $1000 is steep, but yes the engine and trans have to be seperated to fix. Personally I pull the engine, rather than drop the trans, but either way it has to be seprated. My minimum charge for this job would be about $550