FerGloyale

gotta love plasma cutters IMG_0140 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0143 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0145 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And some clean up and paint. IMG_0146 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr

that extension tube just comes out with the TC. It's the drive for the Pump in the trans. There is a small clip that holds it in place to the TC. Check that for proper engagement before reinstall, they can be damaged and make it hard to get the TC back in. There is also a hard plastic type seal at the end of the tube, make sure it doesn't get tugged or knicked going in and out. But basically just pull it out, and carefully put it back in. If the central drive shaft pulls out of the trans with it, that also just pops back into place. But it should stay in the trans. replace the O-ring on it's tip if you have delayed engagement of drive.

If engine removed, was the torque converter properly seated before reinstall?

Also you could get that kit and then use an EA82 intake manifold to install it with the EA82 adapter. Might actually be the best bet as the EA82 manifold is a bit better flowing.

More work (finally) on the Front control arms. added 5/8th bar stock bent to fit along the back side of the arm, bridging the gap of my cut. Heated and hammered to bend the rod along the line of the arm. IMG_0139 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0137 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr And plated the bottoms with 1/4" diamond plate. Plug welded to the box inserts in the center. Bent and angled upward to make a slider and gaurd for the shock. That part might need trimmed after install. Depends on wheel inside lip at full lock. IMG_0135 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0131 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0133 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0136 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr IMG_0130 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Still a bit of clean up to do along the back edges, and grind off corners smooth and matching, then paint both arms. Stock arm minus sway mount + 2nd shock mount = 7lbs These lengthened arms + 2nd shock mounts and plating = 13.5lbs

Wow. It's incredible to see how much structure actually is holding up. Espescially given the rust rot of a midwest car. I mean, spoob seems to be ripped all over the place, but the car as a whole is still intact! I gotta say it's inspiring to see the confidence and quality that you display in quickly dispatching problems. (metal working pun) Gives me inspiration, I haven't found too many cracks or tears in my rust free car. My car has been in rust free parts of Oregon it's whole life, I have started to see just a few hints of spot welds failing, and a pair of cracks along the rear lower sheetmetal below the bumper. I think it's sheet metal tearing back from before the skidplate. But it could be stress from Bumper and trailer mounting used for recover points. Also still weird creaking in the front on/off throttle. Starting with new rust free subframes and seam welding them is a great idea. Might I suggest 97(-ish?) Legacy Sedans have rear subframe with stiffening bracket mounts and bar that goes between the fore and aft lateral link mount tabs. Or make braces that bolt in with the later arm pivot bolts.

That's for EA82 replacement. That carb will work but the adapter supplied may not fit your manifold. The listing as fitting a "hatch" is probably a mistake. All the other cars that year would be EA82.

Yes that's the ignition switch. It connects to the back of the Ignition lock cylinder, on the left side fo the steering column, under the plastic cover. Beware of EBay switches. I've seen several that were almost correct, but the body rotated so they won't correctly bolt into place. Test for 12v+ at the starter solenoid (small female spade wire at starter) While an assistant truns the key. If you have voltage, then the problem is not the switch.

That does nothing if it's a Manual. Manual starter lockout is done through the clutch pedal switch. (the bottom one, normally open until clutch depressed), and a interlocking relay. MTsubyMATT, is the car a Manual or Auto? Have you tried giving 12v to the small terminal on the starter? If that makes the starter turn, then the problem is in the IG switch circuit. To troubleshoot that, we need to know if it's a manual or an Auto? ***nevermind I just re-read....It's an Auto. In that case, the problem is either in the P/N interlock switch. ("Neutral Saftey Switch", isn't a thing on Subaru's) Or in the IG switch itself. Test for voltage on the small spaded wire to teh starter WHILE TURNING THE KEY. If it has less than 12v+ the switch is failing. If it has nothing at all, may be hte P/N interlock. Testing would need to be done at the large square connector on top of the trans the the selector/switch assembly. There are only 2 large wires in that connector, one comes from IG switch, the olther goes out to starter.

Pull the engine. Getting the HGs into place with the fresh head is INCREDIBLY difficult to do without gouging the block with the bolts, or gouging the gasket with the corners of the head or the dangling bolts. the reason is that 5 of the 6 head bolts have to be inserted through the head, the gasket hung on the dowels in the block as you lower the heads down between the rails. So you've got bolts trying to slide back and forth in their holes. And they have to stay within a 1/2" range in order to clear the framerails and drop into place. It's difficult. I've ruined a HG doing it that way. ~$50+ down the drain. Lucky the block wasn't damaged. (I worked in someone elses shop, and the boss preffered them done in car so that's how I did them. Won't anymore) Also, even if you get perfect alignment and insertion of the heads and bolts, you've still got a Torque by degree process for the head bolts. Very hard to do with them in the car, even with a proper degree measuring torque wrench.

the Park/Neutral switch is inside the large multi-switch on the side of the trans. it may need adjusted. Or it may need replaced. The car should start in P or N. If it starts in NEITHER, even with a little wiggling of the shifter within those ranges, then the problem is not in the Nuetral switch. It's super unlikely that BOTH switch paths would be failed. Your problem could be battery connections, or a flaky ignition switch, or the starter. And it could just be coicidence that as you mess with the shifter, it eventually fires. If you are getting a "click" when you hit start, then the problem isn't the P/N switch, it's in the IG circuit or the starter solenoid. I would test the starter directly by providing 12+ to the solenoid. If that is good, you've got a weak Ig switch. Add a starter relay or replace the whole Ig. switch.

Yeah, I'll bet. 99 2.2 is in a Legacy is the weird year with 2 air filter boxes. If the second one (long skinny) a teh throttle body is not sealed well, it's an unmetered air leak. Check that he tabs are engaged with teh bottom lips of the air box in the back fitler box.

+1

I repeat. You cannot convert Struts to Shocks unless you completely fabricate new a suspension with upper locating arms. So I have no idea what you are asking for when you say "shock conversion". That is not a thing. No manufacturer sells quick struts for your car. Good luck.

Right, so unless he swaps the pistons, it will be low compression. That's what I meant.

Ideally, less than 1/16" rolling diameter. Bare minimum, 1/4" Yes put mismatch on the back, the open diff will handle the side to side variation and mostly won't be under load. Always want matched on your steer tires anyhow even on manuals.

Your car uses Struts. By definition they are telescopic locating assemblies for the suspension. Shocks are merely a dampening system, and have no location purpose in the suspension. You cannot convert Struts to Shocks unless you completely fabricate new a suspension with upper locating arms. Buy the parts you want. Take them to a reputable shop with av spring compressor along with your old assemblies, and have the springs and top hats changed over. KYB struts, with new bump-stops and bellows are the way to go.

Actually now that I think a little more....... The tail output shaft and drum WILL need to be in place (*unless you get the 2wd rear case parts FROM 90-94 FWD 4EAT*) The reason being that the main output shaft is held laterally in the case by a roller thrust bearing against the tailshaft drum, held in the rear case. BUT.......one could take out the plates from the transfer pack, and just put the dummy drum back in, plug the end of the case. Honestly, I'd try to find a FWD 4EAT and just use that. lighter by 10kg at least.

Yeah, I get it. It put's me on the hook for a warranty claim. That's Ok. Worst case I buy one of my nice customers a free valve job and headgasket change ! lol. It just makes the difference between a ~$400 service, and a ~$600 one. In the customer's mind, that's a 50% higher cost for the customer for ONE part that seldom fails. That $200 difference can put someone off of even doing any Timing Service, or at least delay it and that's a worse risk than the tensioner. And with a known new belt if it does start to fail it should make noise but hold until customer brings it back. Only had it happen once, and the car made it back to my shop with the tensioner slapping, and I replaced the tensioner under warranty.

If they are very close in size and wear, it should be ok. It's actually easier on an Automatic in any case, as the rear transfer is loosely driven under most circumstances anyhow. Manuals it's worse for them. The side faces of the spider gears aren't meant to spin constantly, which is what happens just going in a straight line down the road with mismatched tires through the true center diff. Got a tailor's measure? Measure the cirumference of tires and check to see how close they are and then make the call?

2 on the left, 2 on the right. Dead center of the Valve covers, under the Coil packs on each plug. If you can't find them, you probably should have someone else change them.

Open the vent cap in the passenger side top of radiator. 1~2 turns, just enough to vent. Keeps the exhaust gas pressure from building up and causing an air pocket. Leaving the rad cap loose will have same affect sometimes I'll do both. You will leak a little dribble of coolant, but it should keep it from pressurizing to the point of boil-over.

Just press new U-joints into the driveline. Easy. Press out old u-joints past the stakes, use a sanding drum on dremel to remove burrs from stakes. Press in new U-joint with interior C-clips and Zerks. Now you have grease-able U-joints.

In my experience, and from a mechanical perspective iIt does not damage anything in the drivetrain. The one thing it "Could" do is affect the life of the Duty C solenoid, as FWD gives it a 12v+, 95% duty cycle square wave. As opposed to a variable cycle ranging about 20-60% until slip is detected. So it could maybe wear that out faster. I only charge $280 + fluids for Duty C replacement. vs. $400+ for tires? IDK, it's up to you, your gonna spend money somewhere, but the FWD switch will help you get by today. For my money, I'd go FWD to run your mismatch for now, and just get 4 new tires on as soon as you can.

I don't know about specs for grinding a new gear. I do know that the rear output hydraulic drum and output can be removed. And the case end plugged. very easy. It's not a differential so no worry, all the power will go just to the front R+P (rear for VW)