wysubey

Here's my list from Rockauto, can report good function on all in my ea82 beck/arnley ignition coil 1788082 airtek/wells disty cap 5D1242A airtek/wells disty rotor 4R1157 pacesetter 325998 catalytic converter Y pipe At-205 re-seal has done wonders for my oil leaks

So, 2 issues with my seatbelts. #1: driver side motorized shoulder belt is intermittent in returning to its "home" position in the B pillar. Sometimes it goes right back, usually when I first start the car from cold. If I stop and get the mail or something, it will go 3/4 of the way and bell dings. Then randomly it will return to the safe position 10-15m later. When the door opens, it always goes all the way forward. Door switch is working properly and shows red on the dash when open and goes away when closed. Seat belt light works blinks when not in "home" position, and goes out when its all the way back. Relay? Circuit breaker? #2: when I tore out the interior and put in sound deadening material and vinyl rib flooring, the lap belt retracted all the way. Now it doesn't lock when I yank it. Is that normal? I don't remember from before if it locked. Does it only lock if there's a sudden impact? Is there a reset for this?

Just replaced the deck and speakers in my 94 Loyale, the biggest problem is the depth is not enough to accommodate a full cd deck. There's about 5.5" of clearance to the heater core/air box so mechless decks are a necessity if you want it to sit flush. My pioneer 1din sticks out 2 inches from the face. I'm gonna replace it with a non-cd deck at some point. Hmmm... 1500w divide by 12 volts is 125 amps. Looks like the 88 has a 60a alternator. So with 125amp draw and 60 amp charge you will be drawing battery down at full volume. I'd put a fresh battery in and watch your system voltage and you should be ok. Normal listening volume will not draw nearly that much juice. Nice score on your DL!

Success! Carquest had a $20 bearing that fits. New belts and she's good to go. Also got my Pioneer stereo installed with new speakers in the front doors. I am super happy.

Success! Mounting shaft came out after a couple taps, then snap ring came out, then tapped the bearing out. No markings, but it measures 15mm ID, 35mm OD, 11mm thick. Bet the parts store has one.

Anyone have EA82 tensioner pulley from a parts car? My bearing seized up yesterday and the parts people are scratching their heads. https://www.dropbox.com/s/71oknlxoezvv1sl/img_3573.jpg?dl=0

No, my replacement Cat/Y pipe from rockauto has large holes in the flanges. They're like 15mm. I went larger diameter on the coupling bolts to the muffler too.

I ended up drilling & tapping new 12mm threads. Worked a treat! It's so quiet now! Thanks for the input all.

Pulled the Y pipe out today because of exhaust leak that is noisy and smells in the cabin when not recirculating cabin air. 2 studs stayed in the engine block, not stripped. 1 stud came out with the nut, engine block threads OK, but 1 hole on the L side is stripped. Won't thread back in at all. What's my best option... 1. Drill and re-tap larger diameter? Seems to be plenty of material to support larger hole an re-cut threads. New Y-pipe and cat have large slots (15ish MM) Never done that before though, might be tricky to align drill bit and tap? 2. Helicoil? Never used these either. 3. There are 2 other holes with threads 90 degrees rotated from the original ones. Is there a way to get a 2nd flange around the pipe rotated 90 degrees to use these holes? They have threads same size as the original ones. 4. Other ideas? I want to keep it as OEM as possible. i already have the replacement Y pipe and cat so I don't want to change that.

Been driving it all summer with max ac on and all good! Can really feel the compressor kicking on and off it sure takes some power out of the little motor. Still, 30.5 mpg doing mostly highway ain't bad for this old a car.

Contemplating what tire to get for my '94. It currently has 175/70 r13 all seasons with 1 mismatched. Looks like 155/80 r13 is comparable but with narrower cross-section. Should get better fuel economy, but perhaps at the cost of grip. Last winter we had lots of snow and my commute gets pretty hairy with variable conditions from sheet ice to packed snow to slush and wet. With this car, I can't justify 2 sets of tires so studs are out, even though they would be awesome. Anybody have experience or insight? What tires are you running for winter conditions? Thanks.

This resolved when I pulled the whole dash. Found the AC amplifier on the evaporator box... it says amplifier right on it so yay for obvious labeling. It can be gotten to through the glove box. Lots of mouse debris in the evap box I'm sure better airflow helps.

Put the dash back together yesterday, and most everything works. Happy to report that all the HVAC is working perfectly with new weatherstripping. Put 1/4" hardware cloth screens where the intakes meet the body, and the fan box recirc intake to keep vermin out. A/C works perfectly now, wheras it stopped after about 20 seconds before. Maybe just a poor connection somewhere in the dash or ac box. Didn't realize before that the defrost setting turns on ac for drying the air before it hits heater core. Kinda cool, but in -20f temperatures there's not much moisture in the air to begin with! Bi-level does feet and windshield vents so that will do the trick, or I will pull the AC fuse in winter. Heater much better now too, it was barely lukewarm before. Almost made a boo-boo with connecting the new heater hoses... put a small rubber stopper in to keep the coolant in the engine, then forgot to take it out before 1st start up. Why doesn't the heater work???? OOPPS... thankfully it didn't go anywhere and I extracted it, bob's your uncle. The problems: "1" fan setting is not working per the broken resistor, I'm not too worried about that for now. Does anyone want to tell me their impedance readings? Then I can solder a resistor in to replace the busted element. Only other thing that's not working is intermittent wiper setting. Slow/fast/mist work fine, but wipers don't return to the bottom automatically. One or two connectors to find I guess. I was so happy to hear it start up first try! Cheers, Y'all!

OOoh very nice! Hope whoever gets that one doesn't destroy it, that one deserves to stay original.

I got a bee in my bonnet today and pulled the dash. Mouse hadn't been living in there in awhile, but was definitely evidence of past (pest) infestation. I got this nice stuff designed for sanitizing CPAP machines that has no odor and kills everything. I can't stand scented cleaning products. Worked well for clearing musty smell in my other cars system without tearing it all apart. Took the blower motor apart and cleaned all the crap from it, lubricated with 3-in-1 oil. Is there something better for old blower motors? Brushes still have a bit of life left. The AC box came apart without completely removing it & depressurizing ac system. Get all the clips from the front & sides, then there are 2 around back but there's enough room to get hands and flathead screwdriver to pop them off. Pull the drain tube, a little jimmying and the bottom comes off. Was a little trouble to get the back clips back on. Dave, where do you find the foam to restore flappy doors? What is that stuff called? Other issue I found was the fan resistor is shot. I probably bumped it with my vacuum and broke the small wires. Ordering it from rockauto now. Cheers y'all!

@naru2Thanks for the service manuals! Got the Hayne's, but it's awesome to have the Subaru manuals.

Hi! '94 EA82 SPFI. AC compressor comes on for a minute & blows cold, then stops. Alligator clip the compressor clutch wire to +12v it stays on! Can't believe the system still has pressure and works! Pulser is working sending AC voltage when compressor is spinning. AC relay is good. Next ideas? Wiring to the A/C amplifier? Where is the AC amplifier? Or should I just hot wire the compressor clutch through a switch on the dash?

New Plugs & Wires. Hood release cable, zip ties saved me because I was able to remove the grill without too much fuss and get to the latch. 02 sensor was a pain to get out, patience and penetrating oil did the trick. Next up: exhaust Y pipe, electric fan, tires, CV boots, and bodywork. Drive 'em till the break and then fix!

+1 to DaveT's CTS recommendation. Check the impedance with an ohm meter... Haynes says it should be 2-3k ohm at 68f, going down as temperature goes up. If its reading meg ohms, as mine was, then its definitely bad. Do you have check engine light? Codes? There's an alternate Bosh part that you can solder in for much less than OEM part, can confirm it works. Good luck!

I bought the OEM one for this repair... working great now. If this one dies in a short period I'll get one of your recommendations. Thanks!

Thanks Dave & GD. I'll look around for a Toyota solenoid.

Do you have liftgate interior covers and driver side kick panel?

Hi, Got my ECT replaced, wow what a difference! Baby runs so much better now. Still throwing code 34 - EGR solenoid or circuit. Pulled off the EGR valve and cleaned it. I'm able to move the diaphragm by hand while engine is idling, rpms drop as expected. My ohm meter shows open circuit across the vacuum solenoid. No clicking at all when 12v is applied. Next step is to replace it. Looks like Hitachi # W0133-1624136 is the replacement. My question is this: is there a bolt-on EGR valve that actuate with 12v instead of vacuum pressure? Basically bypass the vacuum solenoid & mechanical valve. Actuate it directly with electrons like more modern EGRs. Simpler and maybe more reliable. Or will a electromechanical valve pull too much current for the ECU? Thanks all- here's to keeping the EA's alive

Thank you! Success with your Bosch part number. Rough cold start, warm no start, warm idling at 2k all fixed with this part. Took my dremel and cut away the plastic enclosure, then soldered on the pigtail from the old OEM sensor. CEL code 21 cleared. I tested this sensor with hot water/room temp and the impedance measurements were not exactly a match for what the book says. Bosh part was 5k at 32f (book says around 3k), and 400ohm at 150f (book shows 500ohm). Close enough that the ECU is happy. Thanks again!