divinicus
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You were so right about the tranny! Went to a specialty transmission mechanic today and he quickly found the problem was a vacuum line leak! Runs like glass now, thanks again! He also figured out the trouble starting and occasional stalls are a vacuum leak around the carb gasket. I'm assumimg that means a carburetor pull amd new gasket? Anything else? For what its worth a 129k miles 85 Brat GL in Oregon, original owner, just sold on eBay for $8k. Thanks! I have a chance fo get the entire intake manifold and everything on it including the carb. Would this be a good way to go? Thanks!
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You were so right about the tranny! Went to a specialty transmission mechanic today and he quickly found the problem was a vacuum line leak! Runs like glass now, thanks again! He also figured out the trouble starting and occasional stalls are a vacuum leak around the carb gasket. I'm assumimg that means a carburetor pull amd new gasket? Anything else? For what its worth a 129k miles 85 Brat GL in Oregon, original owner, just sold on eBay for $8k. Thanks!
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My Brat has a working AT oil sensor/alert and it never indicated an overheat of the transmission. Here's the current status: Transmission seems to be requiring higher revs as it gets into second and then third gear, bit it eventually does. By the way, what is the normal temp range wanted for the EA81, and what is the high limit temp indicating a problem/overheat (in Farenheit). Thanks!
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Hi All, I'm installing the Australian-made high temp gauge which has two sensors, one is under one if the two bolts holding the thermostat body and the other will wrap aroumd the oil filter. I will start a new topic once it is set up. Not happy with the mechanic that installed new radiator and thermostat in my Brat. Now, although the overheating issues seem to be solved, the car is riding roughly and struggles to get to second and third gears (mine is an automatic). The tranny was working beautifully before this latest job. I also noticed one of the air hoses near the thermostat is not connected, but to me this is almost like a computer issue or loose connection. I did make sure that the tranny fluid was topped off. I'm wary about going back to the same shop! Thanks again!
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Thanks, Bennie. So you mean anywhere on the block near spark plugs, etc. I found this unit made in Australia that looks good, also allows a second sensor to read temp at surface of oil filter. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F163559066517 Which brings up another related issue. My Brat has auto trans. Doesn't the cooling system keep the tranny running cool? What maintenance and checklist is important here? Thanks again!
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Hi Bennie, I like this solution! Where do you recommend the sensor gets mounted on the block, and in Fahrenheit, what is the safe range and upper limit that should sound the alarm? Thanks again!
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Great and thank you, can you semd links to those parts? How is the temp sensor attached to engine block?
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Hello all, Thanks for everyone's help! Got the car back from my mechanic, new radiator, thermostat, hoses, etc. System all flushed and running well *(not overheating). However, even with new manifold sensor installed, dash temp gauge still doesn't work. As an alternative, can't I just get an AM temp gauge and connect that up? Suggestions? Thanks again.
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I got the Brat over to my mechanic today. The radiator was leaking so I ordered a new one as part of this job. Question, since I am restoring the fan system, how are the two fans wired? Does the smaller fan operate independently? Thanks again!
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Hi Bennie, I was able to get both sensors, but the intake manifold temp sensor has only one spade lug on it, not two like the original and corresponding to the wiring connector. Can you advise?
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Ok, thanks to everyone I am getting close to getting this engine cooling issue fixed. Two things left I need help with, please identify the two different parts needed, one is the thermo switch to turn on the radiator fan(s), and secondly, the sensor that will reactivate my temp gauge. Thanks again!
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Ok, I got new OEM thermoatat and housing and two new radiator hoses. Should I ask my mechanic to flush out the radiator when he installs? Also got a recovery/overflow tank and will install. Thanks again!
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Good news, I did an extensive radiator test this morning and the coolant is 100% clear and bubble free after running for ten minutes from a cold start, so it appears my hgs are just fine. What I did detect was the engine block getting hot to the touch, so I assume the coolant is nit getting past a stuck thermostat, new one on order. Are there any other tests you want me to run prior to changing out the thermostat?!
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Thanks, Dave! By the way, what is the correct part for the overflow bottle mine is missing and a temporary solution, an empty plastic bottle, is on board right now.
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Thank you so much! I'm pretty sure I'm out of trouble, I saw no evidence if bubbles in my first test but I will do more extensive tomorrow. So, fill the radiator right up to the top, start the engine and let it run for a few minutes, if the hgs are toast then bubbles will start ro come uo through the coolant?