tropicalfrost

Thanks so much everyone for all the responses! This is really helpful. Here are the answers to a couple questions and a new observation. -The spark plugs and ignition coil are new. I wondered if it could be something around the distributor but the symptoms don't seem consistent with that. -I first thought the jerking and sputtering was getting worse when it heated up, but now I think it gets worse the lower the fuel level. Tank was at about 1/3 the other day when I posted this. I completely filled it today: on the way to the gas station it was starting to sputter within the 5 minutes it took to drive there, especially going up inclines. After filling its now driving much more smoothly on local roads. Havent tried the highway, but this all seems consistent with something clogging around the gas tank. I wont be able to check the fuel pump for a few days but what would be the repair or test for a clog around the strainer? Could it be done without removing the whole tank? Would switching out the filters be relevant? I looked in the Haynes manual and dont see the strainer mentioned in this gas tank diagram. Is it called something else here?

Hi everyone. My car is having a strange problem, strange because I think I've already repaired the parts that could be causing it. It's an 83 BRAT w manual transmission. After driving about an hour on local roads, or 6ish miles on the highway, the car starts jerking and quickly losing speed as if it's not getting enough gas. Pressing firmly on the gas pedal makes it worse. Slowing down immediately calms it somewhat, but it will still jerk and sometimes stall. On local roads it will do this if I press "too hard" or quickly on the pedal- not flooring it or accelerating fast, just what's needed to speed up a little for an incline, through a yellow light, or if traffic speeds up suddenly- if it's not totally gradual and featherlike it jerks, loses speed, and stalls. Shutting the car off then back on usually resets it enough to cruise at like 25 again, but once this starts it keeps happening til the next day when the car is *fully* cool- a few hours break isn't enough. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I've had the carb rebuilt at a carb place, fuel pump and filters replaced a few months ago somewhere else. However, I've needed to go back to the carb place a few times because they didn't fully fix it on the first, second, or third go. They swore they had, til my mechanic who doesn't work on carbs told me to point out a fuel injector he could see malfunctioning. It seemed fine when we took it on a test drive after that, but it wasn't long enough of a drive I guess. Carb place suggested it could be the fuel pump. I'm skeptical since the injector thing, but I'm not knowledgeable enough to rule anything out. (I keep going back to this shop bc I'd rather not go to a whole new shop for work I've supposedly just had done!) I've tried searching online for more info on these symptoms or parts failing but haven't really figured out much from it. Has anyone had this problem before, or could suggest which carb/non-carb parts could be causing it? Thanks so much for any help pointing me in the right direction!

Seems to be fixed! Fusible links and starter. After pulling back the housing on the fusible links I could see all three were blackened somewhat, the red one closest to battery being the worst, and the gray plastic cover for them had a blackened ring around the inside. They arent entirely broken as far as I can tell, but if theyre not the problem they dont look good enough to keep, either. Since fusible links dont seem to be sold anymore, I used instructions from another thread (link below) and switched them out for 30A (substitute for red fusible links) and 20A (sub for green) cartridge fuses. People in that thread are talking about snagging these from the junk yard, so I'll also mention that at the store they told me I could use wire to connect Female Quick Disconnects (same ends that are on the fusible links) to 30 and 20 regular fuses same as what's inside the car. That could be nice because then the original cover would still fit. It doesnt fit over the cartridge fuses I bought, but I'll keep them as is for now. After switching these out the starter was still just clicking, and there was still buzzing coming from there when the key is in the headlights position. Wacking the starter with a hammer while attempting to start the engine got it trying to turn, which is how we diagnosed the bad starter. I dont understand how it got damaged all the way down there with positive battery and ignition coil disconnected, but replacing it did the trick. The buzzing under the hood near starter is still there when key is in headlight position. Thanks for all the responses!

Just noticed when I turn the key to power (just the lights, not to start the car) there is a pretty steady buzzing noise from under the hood. I cant really determine where it's coming from.

I just had the battery tested and it's at 100%. It's a pretty new battery so I was being hopeful that it had drained. What would I look for to see if the fusible links are blown? The fabric casings look undamaged, the ends looked slightly discolored perhaps. Someone else suggested I check the starter relay with a multimeter so I'll do that next as well. Thanks for all the responses!

Hi everyone! Long time reader, first time poster. New owner of an '83 BRAT! I'm not a mechanic so please bear with me and try not to judge me too much over here! Got this truck recently and a mechanic friend suggested I switch out the ignition coil for a newer one. There was nothing wrong with the one it had, but he said it looked old and was basically a "why not" kind of thing, and simple to do myself. I followed advice from another post on here by someone with an '84 BRAT. Two yellow wires to negative, three black wires to positive. Found that post because i could have sworn there were only 4 wires there when I started! I only unhooked positive side of the battery, and disconnected the plug and wires for the coil. When trying to loosen the lower bolt for the strap that is around the coil, the other end of the wrench also touched positive battery terminal. It sparked, I jumped back. Finished up with the whole battery removed. When I tried to start it, it sounded normal for half a second then just clicked. Lights still work, no fuses blown (I only looked at the ones inside by the steering wheel, if there are more please let me know,) but now it just clicks once per attempt, no sound like it's about to start. Did I damage the battery by shorting it? Everything I've searched so far makes it sound like the wrench didn't have long enough contact for that to be the case, and when my battery has died on past cars the symptoms were different. I'd try jumping it but am being wary in case there's something else I did wrong, possibly with the ignition coil or another part becoming damaged when I shorted it? Do I feel so dumb? Yes. From now on i'm going to be following some good advice I already knew: If it aint broke, dont break it! I appreciate any help with this. Thanks for a great forum!