darkflame221

@naru2 what about the evap system doesnt it go all the way back there too ?

all right new chapter to my story briefing : still running with the iac valve motor unhooked, changed the cts for a brand new oem one. did a vaccum test yesterday with a diy smoke machine, to found a leak on what look like to be the egr vaccum modulator (look like a thermostat) and some other vaccum line wich i have fix, (replaced the egr vaccum modulator with an extra one that was on the extra intake manifold that came with the car) edit egr valve ? nothing changed, but ! now that the snow finally finished melting and that my drive way is dry ive come to realize that i have a fuel leak near the fuel tank. It only leak once the car is started and i can hear a good hissing sound (vaccum leak i presume) coming from the leaky area near the tank so now how do i proceed, how do i test the egr system ? etc etc thx ! only thing i havent done that i think could be the culprit is tchek tps and maf with volt meter and tchek tps idle screw proper gap since im not to sure where is the gap to check, and also some more info on the fuel system ( pressure reading check valve return line filter location etc ) would be really appreciated thx. im re reading myself and it sound really hard to follow up with me but hey ! i still have hope XD

all right guys, just installed my brand spankin new oem 150 $ cts, with no luck, even tho i highly believe the old was toast (no continuity). Nothing as changed, still idle way too high around 2500 3000 rpm. where would you look next ? im just about to build myself a smoke machine to search for vacuum leaks, and then maybe verify voltage at the MAF, and then check the tps continuity when throtle is closed + verifying idle stop screw gap to make sure no one as tempered with it any tips suggestion advice or where to start first would be highly appreciated bcz that 150 $ sensor got me really excited, but now really sad thx edit i also did clean the iacv about 2 weeks , but not 100% ive done it properly,i did take the motor out and try to clean by using intake cleaner and qtips and sprayed a good amout through the air port coming from the top but that about it, should i have taken completly apart ? if so what that easiest way to get it off since everything seems to be in the way of the screws :/

any advice on changing over to the new temp sensor ? is coolant gonna gush out when i remove the old one ? do i need teflon tape on the threads etc. ? thx in advance

Well maybe ill just bite the bullet and hope it solve my issue.

alright folk ! bought this new to me 1989 gl wagon ea82 spfi 5 speed 4wd subaru about 3 weeks ago. First it start alright when cold but once warm up it will start idling crazy high around 2500 - 3000 rpm after trying to clean to iacv nothing changed, so i decided to leave to the iacv motor disconnected for the moment being so i could still use the car without destroying the clutch So i now have to give it gas to warm it up, but after warming up for 2-3 minutes at 1500rpm, it start to stumble usually it will drop 2-300 rpm and pick up again without moving the gas pedal. It get worse if the car is under load (accelerating or cruising), to some extend it will bring to vehicular to a stop and stall and then i have to wait 20-30 minutes before i can start it again while i literally need to floor the gas pedal for it to start and then will stumble really bad until it pick up a few rpm. it only happen when the engine is not quit warm up all the way, once the temp seems to stabilize (running temperature) it run perfectly fine and will idle around 1200 rpm (still to high per fsm wich should be around 550rpm with the iacv disconnected. when it start to stumble under load if i floor it it stumble much harder, i have to let my foot of the gas then ease back into it it will stumble again, but by depressing, coasting for a little bit and pressing the gas pedal again it seem to help clear the engine up. but evrything wont smooth up until engine is fully warm up. hopefully my description is not to over whelming and precise enough for people to understand lol, also ive heard alot that cts might be toast, i havent had a chance to run the volt meter to it yet but it wouldnt be suprise if its bad... i've been trying to find a new one online but they are all asking over. 100$, anychance someone could point me where to find one beside my local junkyard ? thx you everyone

found the culprit vacum line was torn off at the boot at the firewall thx

My blower fan is stuck on defrost. Where is the actuator located, how do i fix it ? My head gets really warm and my feet really cold. :/ edit: gl 1989