KStretch55

Yep, sounds like your radiator has become clogged. You can go new or pull the tank off one end and use a stiff wire or piece of sheetmetal 3/16" wide x .040" thick to clean out the passages, then carefully reassemble with a thin coat of RTV on the gasket. Let it cure 24hrs and give it a try.

86Sub, get a 1 1/4" 4 prong socket (used on Ford 4X4 front wheels) at Schucks for $14. Grind off two of the prongs and leave two on opposite sides. Works great for those rear wheels on 4x4 Soobs. I need to get some of the lock washers before I tear mine apart the next time, too. I hope the stealership isn't the only place they're available. I can only imagine what they want for them!!!

Well, I pulled the black fusible link and checked it with the ohm meter. Twisted it around to make sure it didn't have a break or intermittent connection. Put it back in and haven't had the problem since. Could be it was oxidation built up on the connectors, but I didn't see any that was obvious. Will keep you posted.

Thanks. I'll try that and let you know.

Thanks guys. That's interesting to know. Learn something new every day on here.

Ok, here's my latest update on chasing this li'l Gremlin: I pulled up the console and found the inhibit switch. On mine (92' Loyale wagon) it's mounted to the shifter. I ohmed the switch and it was good, closed in Park and Nuetral (with very little resistance) and open in all other positions. I disconnected the connector to it (the largest connector under there, it has 8 - 12 wires in and out. I don't recall exactly now) I used a voltmeter to find the wire that gets 12v when the ignition switch is put in the "start" position. As I expected it was the large black with yellow tracer(there's two of them, one is input to the inhibit switch and one is output from the inhibit switch to the starter). With the connector disconnected I got 11.9v at the connector with the key in "start" on one of the black/yellow wires and 0v on the other. With the connector reconnected and the key in "start", it started the first time, of course. When I got the no start gremlin, there was only 8.9v on the input (to inhibit) black/yellow wire and 8.6v black/yellow output (from inhibit to starter). Indicates to me that something is pulling the voltage down. I'm kind of stumped, but have a theory that I'm going to check out tomorrow. My theory: When I first took the starter apart I put a very light film of grease on the solenoid cylinder (whatever you call the steel cylinder that the electromagnet pulls to initiate the starter). I'm wondering if that grease causes a bit too much drag or an air seal that prevents the solenoid from fully initiating. So, I'm going to pull the starter and clean out all the grease and excess oil in that part of the mechanism and see if that works any better. Some things are made to work with little or no lube, or dry lube only. Any thoughts????

Speaking of cylinder wear... I was at my local jy the other day and noticed 2 or 3 EA82 engines that the heads had been scavenged off of. Just out of curiousity I ran my fingernail across the top of the cylinders to see how much of a ridge was worn into them. All of them that I checked had barely, if any noticeable ridge and the odo in the cars that I checked were over 100k. Granted, that doesn't mean they were the original engines, but I was still surprised to find so little wear. Is that normal for EA82s? I haven't torn one down that far yet. I've worked on a few Fords and Chevys though and it's not unusual to have a very noticeable ridge (.005" - .015" give or take) on one of those with that many miles on it.

If you are skilled at soldering you can replace the regulator for about $30, same with the brushes ($1.50). But, with diodes involved and such, you pretty much need to be somewhat experienced. There definitely is a correlation between the idiot lights not working and alternator function. I've experienced it, as have others I've read comments from. You would think that with alternator failure you'd get a "charge" light, but it's not always the case. It was explained to me by someone who seemed to know what they were talking about that it has to do with one or more of the diodes burning out and not allowing voltage to the light curcuit.

Have your alternator checked. The lights not working seems to be an indication that something is wrong with the voltage regulator or diodes.

1/2" breaker is the standard tool, as far as I know. Here's a tip, too. There's really no need for them to be "gorilla" tight. Just snug. Some teflon tape on the threads aids removal the next time and helps reduce the dribble that results from capillary action of the oil seeping through the threads, too.

Hey there fellow Idahoan. Where do you race? Been discussing doing a Rally for fun with some friends in the Boise area. A friend has some property up in McCall. We've been thinking of starting in Boise, over Rocky Canyon to Hwy 21, up to Idaho City, Harris Creek road into Horseshoe Bend, Hwy 55 to McCall. Stay the night on his property, then back to Boise the next day via Hwy 95, Hwy 30 and possibly some other twists and turns. Nothing serious, strictly for fun.

There's nothing wrong with changing the fluid. What most knowledgeable A/T mechanics will tell you is NOT to have it flushed. Back flushing is especially a no-no. Flushing tends to break loose and stir up crud that is best left where it is. Just changing the fluid and filter doesn't do that and gets rid of the crud that is floating around in the fluid.

Sounds to me like your timing is off. Engine, or compression, braking would be less or none if either valve is open or beginning to open. Also could be the cause of backfiring through the carb or after burning in the exhaust, which ever it is that's occuring. Why it's less now than before if all you adjusted was your idle mixture and idle speed? My guess would be that before you had a high enough mixture that you were getting some fuel/air ignition to cause some compression effect and now your mixture is such that there's not enough fuel to ignite in that condition.

When mine went out a few weeks ago, no lights came on, and the voltmeter just slowly began to drop, until at roughly 9 volts it wouldn't run anymore. Funny that I didn't get any lights. Also, of note, the idiot lights didn't light with the key in "run" either. With the exception of the CEL. It did light in "run".

Yep, it's still an intermittant problem. Finding the inhibit switch and checking the voltage and current across it is my next project. Just have to find the time, hopefully this weekend.

Book says to rap it with a soft mallet to knock particulate loose from the valve seat area. I've used small wire brushes, wire and compressed air to clean the passages.

Agree. I did just that, and cleaned up both sides of the connector with a tiny wire brush, then used epoxy to repair the damaged shell and secure the terminals. Should be as good or better than new now. I stand corrected, I read where someone else said they had a GL-10 that had a 4 speed AT too. Wish I had one. The 3AT is great for everything except freeway driving or highways with steep grades.

Were your plugs adequately torqued? You'll get a greasy black residue if they aren't, due to oxidation of the aluminum heads vibration against them. But, I think you'd hear it if they were that loose.

If you're talking about the ring nut that retains the wheel bearings, I found that the socket for removing the wheel bearings from the front of a 1/2 ton Ford 4X4 (Dana 55 axles, I think)will work great with a bit of modification. Since the notches in the ring nut are not 90 degrees apart, you just have to grind off two of the studs on the socket, so that you have two left that are on opposite sides (180 degrees from each other). These will engage two of the notches on the ring nut just fine. I believe the socket is 1 1/4" and available at Schucks or Autozone for under $20. If I misunderstood and you're talking about something else, oh well, take it FWIW. ;-)

This is exactly the same problem I've been chasing in my 93 Loyale 3AT w/pushbutton single range 4X4. Mine will start everytime by the "short with a screwdriver" method or with a remote starter switch hooked between the battery positive terminal and the starter solenoid terminal (small spade connector on the starter). This confirms that the starter is fine. I was pretty sure of that, because I've had it apart a couple of times, checked it over and replaced the solenoid contacts. With the starter out and secured to the rubber intake duct with zip ties, I hooked a jumper wire between the solenoid connector and the solenoid input wire. I clamped the normal starter ground cable (normally connected to the bracket that's held under the top starter mount bolt) to the starter with a C clamp and connected the starter hot lead cable (the red one) to the stud on the starter (where it's normally connected). So, for all intent and purpose, the starter is connected as normal, just not mounted to the bellhousing. With it mounted and hooked up in this fashion, it functions every time without fail. However, remember there is no load on it. This confirms to me that the starter is fine, even though I can't put a load on it without it mounted to the bell housing, it worked fine with a load and the screwdriver short or remote starter switch. This also confirms that my starter curcuit is working, to a point. I think this tells me that somewhere between the ignition switch and the spade connector for the starter solenoid I have a connector or switch contacts with higher than normal resistance, since the solenoid clacks like the electro magnet is pulling the plunger but not with enough current to move it far enough to overcome the spring and engage the starter contacts. I've checked the ignition switch and the connector that is closest to it, so far. The connector has obviously been hot at some time, which seems to be typical, but is making good contact. This leads me to believe that my problem is either another connector further down the line or the inhibit switch and I haven't had time to look further for the last couple of weeks. I have tried shifting to nuetral when the no start condition occurs and can't say it makes any difference. I really suspect it's the inhibit switch that is my problem. It's either out of alignment, dirty or worn out. I don't know for sure yet, but I believe it's mounted on top of the tranny near the shifter. When I get time to look further I'll post what I find. Good luck. BTW, someone else out there probably knows better than I, but I don't believe there were ever any 4 speed Auto trannies nor dual range auto trannies installed in Loyales. Yours must be a transplant, correct?

Nothing wrong with a faint smell, but it shouldn't be strong. Normally, anti-seize is a dark gray or black compound, due to the molybdenum in it. Molyb is a soft metallic element kind of like graphite. It's what makes the anti-seize compound work. It forms a barrier between the cylinder head and spark plug that keeps rust or other oxydation from forming.

Bummer, but if that's the case I can understand. It sure had a lot of useful stuff on it though.

5th gear. Fewer engine RPM under less load, more driveline RPM for the same amount of fuel.

Just pull the timing check plug out and use a flat bladed screwdriver. Slide it between the bell housing and the torque mount bar, so the blade is between two teeth on the ring gear. To retorque, just put the screwdrive on the other side of the timing check hole with the blade between two teeth on that side. Works fine.

Yep, exactly the same problem my 91 Loyale wagon had Friday. My son was on the way to football practice. When I got there to look at it I popped off the distributor cap and the rotor wasn't moving. Towed it home and changed the belts (The left belt was still whole, but had no teeth left on it at all. They were all laying in the bottom of the covers.