KStretch55

I've put nearly 16 in my '92 AT wagon. I was sweatin' BBs and the car must have been suckin' fumes!! Not a good practice with electric fuel pumps!!

It could have been worse, you might have been .5 miles from Illinois!!!

In retrospect, I don't think I have a charging problem. My guage drops to about 12volts with A/C on, especially with the fan on High. But, who knows how accurate the guage really is, I should check at the battery with my voltmeter to be sure. However, the A/C system is charged and it doesn't seem to blow as cold as I think it should, so I may need to check further into the orofice valve mentioned. Thanks

It's normal when starting from a cold engine for the temp to go up above "normal" running temp and then fall back down to "normal". That's just the engine warming up and the thermostat opening. Where "normal" is on your guage may vary from car to car. My '91 and '92 run about 1/8" - 3/16" from the bottom of the range mark. My sons 86 runs slightly below half way through the range mark. I have pulled the radiator out of one of mine, carefully pulled the passenger side tank off and used a wire to clean it out (I've got a couple of aluminum strips specifically for that purpose for next time.), then carefully put it back together with a thin coat of RTV on the gasket. Has been working like a champ for months.

Hmmm, sounds like mine could be having a similar problem, though not to the degree his is. Where is the orofice tube and how do you clean it? Do I have to evacuate the system? Thanks

I tried that. With the engine running, connected then disconnected both. Codes were still stored. So, with engine running, connected both then shut off engine (key to off) then diconnected both. Still had codes. Go figure?? But, disconnecting the battery did work, whether holding the brake pedal helped or not, couldn't tell ya.I thought the 7 would be something like that, thanks Cougar. If I recall, my MT '91 always blinks a 5, but it's been a while since I looked.

Pop the covers off the steering column and trace the wires from the ignition switch to the rectangular connector. I bet you find one of the corner pins has obvious signs of a short (melted/burned). I had the same problem on my '91. Cleaned up the pin and socket and used some epoxy to repair the plug. Haven't had the problem again.

I tried the "disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and hold down the brake pedal a few moments" method and it worked. I think hoozie may be correct, I think the 7 is just an identifier or no trouble code. Thanks for the help!!

I have to agree with MorganM, but only in part. It would not be worth the hassles I would have for killing someone who was burglaring my car. However, I would not hesitate to pull down on him and take him into custody until the authorities arrived. It's his choice at that point to comply, fight or flee. If he complies, all will be well. If he flees, kind of depends on the situation, I would not fire unless it was apparent that he was going to harm someone. (Such as if he ran to the neighbors and was trying to break in and I knew they were home, possible hostage situation.) If he elects to fight and rushes me, that was his bad choice and I have to defend myself. Woe be unto him if he breaks into my home or car while either is occuppied though. I wouldn't hesitate to protect myself or family in those situations. At that point I don't know what his intentions are, whether he intends to do me or my family harm or is just after possessions. "Somebody's life isnt worth meger possesions", I guess HE should have given that a bit more consideration. Still it's tough to justify taking a life and even if judged to be lawful, I would have to live with that for the rest of mine.

Thanks, I'll give that a whiz this evening.

My CEL came on the other day, finally got around to checking the codes yesterday. With no connectors together I get a 7, which keeps repeating (haven't the foggiest what that one means). With the Read connectors together I was getting 35, 11, 13 (purge valve, crank angle and crank angle). I checked the purge control solenoid and sure enough it was gone. Fortunately, I had one on the shelf to replace it with. I couldn't find anything on the 11 and 13, so decided to clear the codes and see what happened.... but I can't clear them. The purge solenoid cured the CEL, but I can't get the codes to clear. I believe I read that with the engine running I should connect both the "test" connector (green) and the "read" connector (white), which I did. I tried connecting and disconnecting them with it running, connecting them with it running then shutting it off and disconnecting them. Still have the same codes. Suggestions???? Oh, it's my '92 Loyale, SPFI, AT, wagon.

Yep, it does sound like you did indeed have a lack of oil pressure, not just an indication problem. You might dodge a bullet, but if the temp had started to rise you may already have some bearing damage. If the pump was still pumping the pressure had to be going somewhere, but since you don't have a puddle or more standing oil than usual, and provided it's not in the coolant or exhaust system, I'd start by pulling the pump and looking for something obvious. Cracked or missing seal parts, etc. If nothing there, pull the pan and see if your pick up tube came loose. Suggestions??

I think Northwet is getting you on the right track. My first question was the same as his: How could you tell it wasn't pumping oil? Was it clattering badly or what? If not, my first thought would be oil pressure sending unit or mickey mouse gasket.

Could be starter solenoid contacts, though that wouldn't explain why it quit on him. Unless, but "quit" he meant that he stopped somewhere and when he wanted to leave it "quit" starting for him.

I'd be a bit concerned with the affect it might have on seals and such. Please keep us posted.

Most manuals have the allowable dimensions for the inner and outer rotors listed. Of course, the trouble is once you have it out, measure it and find it out of limits, you're stuck until you can find a replacement. I did some checking around in anticipation of changing mine a while back, and I couldn't find anyone who sold the oversized rotors. So, I asked around here on the board and couldn't find anyone who had ever had one wear enough to need replacement. So, I just got the seal kit from Schucks and went that way. I did find that one of "mickeys ears" on the mickey mouse gasket wasn't round anymore. Part of it was smashed or sucked in toward the center. Since replacing it I haven't had low oil pressure indication like I did occasionally before. I think the idea of some sleeves for those to ports is excellent!! I'm going to be pulling an engine one of these days and I think while I'm at it I'll measure them and have a machinist friend see what he can come up with. Hush, does Bow Wow carry a lot of the common Sub stuff? I've got a CV shaft there once and they pretty helpful, but I always forget about them cuz' they're kinda out of my way.

Sounds good. I think I'll have to start saving my pennies for a XADO fund. Keep us posted. Thanks.

If you remove all the heat shields I wouldn't recommend that you use your car for 4 wheeling on trails. If you must, please don't come here to Idaho. We get waay to many range and forest fires started by people parking/driving in dry grass. Also, be sure to check your catalytic converter now and then and make sure that you don't have combustible stuff crammed between it and the heat shield.

Anything new?

Don't be afraid to check a map and get off the freeway going through Idaho. We've got some pretty beautiful country and interesting things to see, but we don't keep most of them along the freeway. A couple of routes I'd recommend if you have a little extra time. Highway 55 north out of Boise, takes you through some really beautiful mountain country. Beautiful drive especially in something sporty like a suub. It meets up with Hwy 95 just past McCall about 2 hours north of Boise. Or stay on the Freeway until just before you get to Oregon and take the exit to Fruitland. When you get off the freeway you'll be on Hwy 95 and it takes you north through some great country, at Cambridge you're just a short sidetrip from Hells Canyon. Hwy 95 goes all the way to Canada, but you can cut west at Lewiston or Moscow. If you want to stick to the Freeway, there's still plenty to see and do. Avoid westbound I-84 around Boise during the afternoon rush. We call it the westbound parking lot much of the time. Once you get into Oregon I'd recommend a stop in Baker City, even if you just stop for lunch at the Geiser Grand hotel. It's a pretty neat step back in time. McNary Dam is pretty cool. If you're a windsurfer, Hood river has been rated as one of the top places in the world. It's where the Hood river dumps into the Columbia and even if you don't windsurf you may want to stop and watch all the colorful sails, you'll know it when you get there it's right along the freeway. Have a great trip!

Where, where???

The manual recommends 90 octane, and I've found from experience that mine will ping like crazy under load with 87. Better with 89 and no ping with 91. It's a bit more expensive, but sure beats the alternative.

Just did mine last weekend. 3 seals. One for the shaft, one around the oil pump boss and the mickey mouse seal.

I was doing some reading on "Brown's gas" recently. My son did a research paper on it. Sounds very interesting. Google it if you're interested.

Looks normal for unleaded gas to me.