KStretch55

I would guess that you've got some air in the top of your block that can't get out. Put the front end up on ramps or jack it up and "burp" the system.

A '93 with only 32K!! There's your problem, you don't drive it enough and it's feeling neglected!! LOL

I'll have to check, but I think it'd be legal here in Idaho. For the most part the integrity of the roof is still intact. Besides, if a Bronco or Blazer is legal with the top removed, that's gotta be.

I'm slow... took me a minute of wondering where in the heck he found a 4 door Brat!! That is pretty cool!!

Interesting, but aren't there some issues with seals and stuff, as well as the writer has some inaccuracies and extraneous data in his fuel jet conversion chart.

My '91 Loyale did that to me a couple of times a year or two ago. Turn the key and literally no power, as in no idiot lights, no radio, no anything!! The first time I cleaned the battery posts, turned the key and still no power, turned the key again and everything worked as normal. Couple of days later, same thing: no power what so ever. Tore the steering column apart and started tracing wires from the ignition switch. I did find that one pin on the connector to the ignition switch had got hot and melted the plastic. Sorry, it's been a couple of years and I don't recall which pin, other than it was on a corner of the connector, I think. Perhaps it had some carbon that was not allowing continuity. Unfortunately, I can't say definitively, because when I repaired it and plugged it back in I still had no power. I left the key in the run position and started shaking and twisting wires and suddenly had power, and it hasn't done it to me since.

That Miles, he's a wizard. Regular Adonis of Subaru. Excellent help.

Hey Xadoman, if you'd like another test subject just let me know. I've got a '91 Loyale wagon MT 234K and a '92 Loyale wagon AT 179K. I'd be happy to try it in either and keep everyone posted on the results.

Great! Please keep us posted.

There's a pressure switch in the system that tells the compressor there's enough pressure from the refrigerant to run. I'm not sure where it is on these, I'll have to look. At any rate, it sounds like you are getting the same reaction as if the system was low on refrigerant, so if you know for certain that it's properly charged I'd try a new pressure switch. The compressor should run with the defrost/defog selected and I believe the heat to, maybe. The reason being that, especially in defrost/defog, the a/c is used to remove the humidity from the air by running just enough that moisture in the air condenses on the a/c coil. That way when the warm air hits the cold windshield it's dry and doesn't cause fog or ice.

I just changed the belts on my '92 Loyale wagon this weekend. The box said Dayco, but the belts had Dayco/Gates on them and had the same part number as the Gates that I replaced. I replaced them because I didn't know how old they were. I bought the car last fall and it had no maintenance records. Figured it was better safe than sorry and was some fun time to spend with my son. So, now I've got a set of emergency spares, too.

Oh, have to agree! The Element and what's that other box with wheels I've seen lately, a sion.. scion... something like that? They even make the Tribeca semi-tolerable.

Just remember, you already have a car that you like, so you're out nothing if they don't come to your terms.

Stick to your guns! Make them come to you.

I was thinking more along the lines of someone using non-O2 sensor friendly sealant on the exhaust system or head gaskets. From what I understand, if it's used anywhere between the combustion chamber and the sensor it can cause problems. But, that's just hearsay from me. Mostly just brainstorming for something.

Seems kind of odd that you had no problems, until the dealership showed you that you had a problem. I'm not saying all dealerships are "stealerships", but have you dealt with this one before? What kind of reputation do they have?

Be very careful with any product that contains Ketone. It's very nasty stuff on your liver and other organs. Don't breathe it or let it soak into your skin.

As I recall, didn't Starkiller say that at one time in this ordeal he had replaced the O2 sensor and that helped for a while, but then the problem returned? If so, what's the chance that he's got some sealant that's not O2 sensor friendly somewhere in his system and it's causing premature failure?

Mine sits at 0 with the key off. I'd say set it there.

If anything, I'd say they would be detrimental, if indeed they cause a shorter spark duration. Otherwise, they would be no better than normal spark plug wires, other than being shielded. Shielding is really of no use or benefit, unless you have them rigged up on some kind of communications vehicle. They definitely are not worth that kind of money.

Ugly on the outside and ugly on the inside. Kind of reminds me of a embrionic hummer (another butt ugly vehicle). That console is such a waste of space. If this is a sign of the GM influence on Subaru..... woe unto us!!

Most definitely have to agree.

How much oil does it use? Could be burning some and causing carbon buildup, as Morgan indicated. Also, it wouldn't be terribly unusual or surprising if a timing belt has hopped a cog or something, as indicated by Miles, which could also contribute to some carbon buildup. Sounds like good places to start.

I think what Subynut is getting at is that a lot of times one electrical problem is related to another. Sounds a lot like they could be in this case. I'd check grounds, then try to rewire everything to as close to original as you can and start trouble shooting for loose or broken connections.

Shoot that's brand new!!! I have a '91 and a '92 with 234,000 and 179,000 respectively. They are great little cars. Mind if I ask what they want for it?